Agonizing......Separating or thinning cucurbits (melons, squash)
manzanitacrow
6 years ago
last modified: 6 years ago
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Winter Melon/Wax Gourd -- the best veggie you've never tried.
Comments (24)guavalane Thank You. I want all the info I can get. Does your friend buy seeds and if so what varieties and where does he buy the seeds. etc. why higher ? How big are these. You are in a great warm long grow region. I am zone 5 and must plan carefully. So I am interested in what comes quickly and what takes a long time. I can probably do with plants to about 105 days as some pumpkins are 105. not sure on the maximum but it probably depends on the temperature. Right now it is cold here. high of the day below or near 50. just to give an idea. But of course all information is eagerly sought. how is the eating quality difference between winter melon and fuzzy gourd. I had a oriental melon gourd that I liked. It was pretty good. it grew sort of like a square long melon. the melon had 4 creases running the length that caused it to have a sort of square cross section. the crease was indented along the length. the melon was nice in soup. It might have been a winter melon but no white on the melon skin and it was ready very early. The skin was tough so it was easy to cook. I could put it into a microwave and after it was cooked the skin would come off in one piece instead of falling apart. I just grab the skin and pull it off. well more or less. worked great. the "melon" was nice and firm. light color. sort of clear when cooked. moisture came out of it. the moisture with the seeds was a little more sweet. but this was for cooking not for raw eating. Does anyone have any idea what it might have been. what kind of oriental melon or gourd. I saved some seed but then the seeds might be crossed with all the other stuff grown there. Mostly I want to know what it is so I can buy some good seed that is properly correct and not some half wild cross....See MoreIs anyone having success growing melons?
Comments (32)Hi, vgkg. I wouldn't think that disease would be limited to the north. I believe that fusarium wilt was first identified in South Carolina or somewhere like that in the 1880s. Anyway, What I have observed is that watermelons and cantaloupes do splendidly well the first two years in a new location if well cared for. Then the next year they just don't thrive as well and cannot seem to finish up the fruits with full flavor and vigor. The next year some of the plants die suddenly of classic fusarium wilt about the time the fruits set on. Then what I have had happen is the next year the watermelons do splendidly until the fruits are 2/3 grown and whammy, the whole patch wilts in unison on a hot day. They recover at night , but every hot day they grow worse until most of them die. A few regrow from the center, but are too late to finish good sized fruits. Purdue calls this Mature Vine Decline [Sudden Wilt]. I didn't have that problem in the old melon patches last year, but a new problem that looked nothing like any pictures of melon diseases. The melons again grew splendidly until the fruits were well along. Then one plant on the end got yellow leaves in the center. Further out on the vines the leaves were mottled yellow and green. This developed until the leaves fell off. Then a neighbor plant got it and then the next one got it until one by one the whole row had it. This happened in all three locations. I belatedly used a fungicide Anyway, most of the plants recovered and started a whole new growth from the center and set on more fruits and were extra healthy. In my new location the melons were exceptional in size and number...see not diseased. Some commercial growers fumigate to get them through the season. I cannot do that. Even the big growers have all the fungals they want and more and they watch and spray like a hawk....See MoreI think I'm ready for the cucurbit bug war........
Comments (13)Lou, I think this will work well for you too(from a fellow nutcase). I originally thought about doing framed boxes to cover each vegatable but I figure why not just do a framed bed. I had been toying around with the idea for a while but when Tom (tomncath) talked about growing veggies in his screened patio a while back, I figured this would work for me. Silvia, thanks for the info. These are new veggies to me so it's good to have some info on them. I am also prepared for the fruit bugs war. I made these bags (screen and shade fabric) for things like peaches, papayas, sugar apples and guavas. I will use them on the young mangoes but as the mangoes ripen, I will switch to a metal mesh bag to protect them form the squrls and birds. I showed those bags on another thread last year. I had 100% success in protecting my mangoes so we'll see how these work with the other fruits. I set bird food for the birds and I have butterfly attracting plants. My benevolence ends there. I don't intend on sharing my veggies and fruits with insects. :)...See MorePlanning Your Plantings In the Edible Garden
Comments (38)Mia, Yes , I think it will work. Interplanting tomatoes with other crops is something I do all the time. I often grow smaller plants like lettuce and carrots underneath and between tomato plants, essentially using them as a living mulch beneath the taller tomato plants. I also mix all kinds of herbs into the tomato beds as well, and think those herbs help explain how I grow so many tomato plants and yet only rarely see even a single tomato hornworm or fruit worm. You sometimes will get less yield per plant when you interplant multiple kinds of crops together using close spacing, but since you have a lot more plants occupying the soil, you still get a good harvest . The best carrot crop I ever had was a result of me broadcast sowing lettuce and carrot seed randomly into the tomato bed after the tomato plants already had been transplanted into the ground. My garden was smaller then and I had run out of space, so was packing as much into each bed as I possibly could. I just thinned carrots and lettuce after they sprouted. When I grow onions with tomato plants, normally I hammer a stake into the ground where each tomato plant will be planted later, and leave a small unplanted spot there as I plant the onions. When it it time to transplant the tomato plants into the ground, I put one tomato plant next to each stake. If I have to pull up a couple of onions to make room for a tomato transplant, it isn't a big deal . We eat those onions as scallions. I started interplanting multiple types of plants together long ago, after reading John Jeavon's book "How To Grow More Vegetables...." book. It is amazing how much you can pack into even a small space when you interplant. Even when I grow tomato plants in molasses feed tubs, I generally have pepper plants, herbs and flowers mixed into each container with the tomato plants. Look at how Mother Nature mixes everything up together. On the eastern edge of our woodland, for example, we have native pecan and oak trees growing as the dominant plants, but underneath them we have wild cherries, American persimmons, possumhaw hollies, and redbuds, and beneath those understory trees we have American beautyberry bushes, native blackberries, inland sea oats and brushy bluestem, peppervines and several native wildflowers which ebb and flow with the seasons. All of them happily co-exist. Why can't our gardens be the same way? To garden bio-intensively in this manner, you need to pay careful attention to soil fertility and irrigation (if adequate rainfall is not being received). Obviously when you interplant several types of edible crops together, the plants will be competing with one another. I get smaller onions in interplanted beds than I get from onions grown in a monoculture with recommended spacing, but still get tons of onions. We still have several dozen onions from last year's crop, though now they are starting to sprout. There pretty much is nothing grown in our veggie garden that isn't interplanted with several other things. If I ever were to plant even one single monoculture bed, I'm pretty sure I wouldn't like the way it looked and would be out there trying to fix the bed by adding more stuff to it. In fact, I do have my onions planted as monoculture beds right now, but that is because they are the only thing I've put into the ground so far this year. The onions will not be alone in those beds for long. Hope this helps , Dawn...See Moremanzanitacrow
6 years agodigdirt2
6 years agowayne_5 zone 6a Central Indiana
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6 years agoPeter (6b SE NY)
6 years agowayne_5 zone 6a Central Indiana
6 years agoPeter (6b SE NY)
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6 years agomanzanitacrow
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6 years agodaninthedirt (USDA 9a, HZ9, CentTX, Sunset z30, Cfa)
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agowayne_5 zone 6a Central Indiana
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6 years agowayne_5 zone 6a Central Indiana
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