Quick note...daylilies can take quite a bit of shade & still bloom acceptably...but note that they are not EVERBLOOMING. Some, like H. 'Stella d'Oro' are what's known as RECURRENT bloomers. That means that they will, after a certain number of days predetermined by their genes, REBLOOM. In New England (Zone 5 & lower), it depends a lot on your micro-climate whether even H. 'Stella d'Oro' will rebloom in your garden. You haven't given your USDA Zone so I'm hesitant to give a guess as to what your odds might be of getting them to rebloom. Roses are another example of RECURRENT bloomers...clemetis being yet another. We have a short growing season and our rebloom is much less than our fellow gardeners further south. Hostas perform best with a reasonable amount of moisture. Your fast draining slope (filled with, probably, tree roots) will not be an ideal environment. That said, many of the older, less finicky, hostas will perform admirably in your situation.

Thanks for the additional photos and the bed measurements. I am fairly sure from looking at your photos that your house doesn't face due north, since in all your photos there is sun either on the front of the house (first photo, taken either early morning or late afternoon) or on the bed itself (last two photos, taken an hour or two before or after noon, based on the shadow from the house next door.) So you should probably go to Google Earth (which always has north up like a map) and find your house to figure out what direction it's really facing before we go any further on plants. It looks more like it gets close to a half day of sun and even when in shade, the shade will be bright, so you have more flexibility on what you can plant beyond shade plants. I'd still love a photo from across the street or plot plan that shows how deep the lot is and how wide, so I can figure out where to put a tree or two which are the only things large enough to ground your house and how to pull the landscape out some to also help ground the house. I would also love to be able to see both corners to see how to frame the front of the house, perhaps some flowering small trees or a taller spire of an evergreen. I still think that a more vase-shaped medium sized tree such as a Heritage birch would look great offset from the house, both over toward the right side and well out into the yard. Plant it so that the ultimate width won't overflow into the neighbor's yard. I am thinking generally that the front beds need to be made just a bit deeper and planted with two rows of shrubs and in front of that a row of perennials in just 2 or three colors with several plants per group for mass effect. One row of shrubs should be all one kind of evergreen that will stay below window height or shorter, one a long flowering shrub such as one of the reblooming Hydrangea macrophyllas such as your current Endless Summer (since it is doing well) or one of the longest blooming, and then a front row of perennials in just 2 or three colors. Depending on the evergreens and the flowering shrubs, you might have either closest to the house (though plant leave at least 2 feet with no plants behind the ultimate shrub size for maintenance and to prevent house damage.) On the walkway side, the perennials can be on the side away of the walk away from the house, continuing across the entire front in a straight line but filling in back to the shrubs on the right side of the house. This will give you something with enough mass to be visible against the house from the road (unlike the current one of this and one of that), and walking to the house will be through the garden rather than in front of the garden. Look at the first photo in thisthread from the blog of a wonderful landscape designer in the Detroit area, Deborah Silver, for something of the effect I am thinking of for your house's shrubs. She used H. paniculata Limelight, a taller hydrangea that is only just starting to bloom here, but you can choose one that will reach a height that come to just about your window sill level. The evergreens provide some color and structure for the five or so months that the Hydrangeas are bare, but don't need to be a formal sheared hedge as this yew hedge is. They can be a looser, naturally low growing evergreen. For your proportionately taller, narrower house (compared to the one in the blog), I would plant the trees off the corners, whether small flowering trees or taller narrow spires and a larger tree off to the side farther out into the yard toward the road as I mentioned above. You might even consider a medium hedge out closer to the road (though not close enough to be in conflict with winter snow plowing) to help bring higher the "ground feel" from the road (which looks like it must be lower than the house) to balance the house height. Something low maintenance with flowers such as some of the newer low care shrub roses or rugosa roses, or Hydrangea paniculata might work. For your current plants, move them to the back or side yard if you have a place for them, or advertise them as free if the taker digs them.

How giant is giant? Do you know if there are any perennial fruits or vegetables? Raspberries are pretty obvious, but asparagus might pop up and surprise you. I agree with suppressing weeds. I'd suggest that you start by covering the vast majority of the garden with something--plastic, landscape fabric, newspaper, planters' paper, cardboard, something. This is assuming that there are no perennial fruits or vegetables growing; I'm not suggesting that you smother those. The idea is that this allows you to press the 'pause' button on most of the garden, so it won't slowly grow a weed jungle while you're getting your bearings. Ideally, this weed suppression covering will allow the rain to come through, especially if you're in an area that has summer droughts. So plastic, the cheapest and easiest option, isn't the best one. Another possibility, if you're working with a tiller, could be to till the whole thing and plant most of it with a green manure. (You can search for seeds/seed mixes for green manures.) But this means that you absolutely must get out there to till the green manure in at the right time. This is why I don't do this. (Well, plus I hate tillers. I don't disapprove of them, i just hate using them.) When the garden is 'paused', then I would suggest that you start with one modest-sized bit. In my garden, my bed size is 4' X 6', just because. That's a nice little bit of dirt to work--if the soil is reasonably moist but not too moist, I can get one bed weeded, forked (these days I use a broadfork, rather than a shovel, for bed preparation), amended, fertilized, and ready to plant in something between thirty minutes and three hours, depending the state of the soil and how many weeds there are. (Thirty minutes assumes that the bed is already in prime weed-free shape and just needs a little refreshing.) (If the soil is too dry, I generally have to presoak it several days ahead, but for me that's a summer strategy. If the soil is too wet, I either have to wait for a long enough gap betwen rains, or put a tarp down over a bed or three and, again, wait several days.) I'm babbling along at great length, aren't I? So. Put the garden on pause. Choose a nice little area not too much bigger than 4' X 6'. Buy a bag of organic fertilizer (for vegetables) and a bag of organic compost--you might end up having compost delivered by the truckload, but I'm suggesting a small-scale start. Dig or fork the area--there are probably any number of YouTube videos for that. Add fertilizer in the amount recommended by the bag, and add compost, and mix in. (I mix in with a smallish hula hoe, even though that's not what a hula hoe is for.). How much compost? When the soil is in decent shape, I add about two-thirds of cubic foot per 4' X 6' bed, per year. When the soil is bad, I might double that. Get some lettuce seed (or some lettuce seedlings, if you're entering shops in these nervous days) and some disease-resistant snap pea seed. Plant half the bed with each. Then prep the next bed. That's my starting advice.

I don’t know what the 5 year life cycle refers to, and I would check the reliability of the source before believing it. One strategy I use for finding more reliable, scientific sources, is to use the scientific name, in this case Alliaria petiolata. Then I check the URL. Botanic gardens, state DNRs, and universities will be more reliable than something like a backyard gardener’ blog generally speaking. IME it grows a rosette of leaves and then shoots up a flower stalk, sometimes the first year and sometimes the second, depending on when it sprouts and growing season length. I try to pull before it flowers, especially during times the soil is moist so I can get more root. IME the seed has a long life in the soil, so you will always need to be vigilant. Learn what the small seedlings look like and smell like so you can pull them as soon as you see them. It may take more than 5 years of keeping an eye out because any time the soil is disturbed (planting, critters like chipmunks, voles, etc) there is the potential for deeply buried seeds to be brought to a better spot for sprouting.