how big you thinking of buying..... the smaller the plant.. the faster it gets going ... gets established ... and shade is not going to help you with speed of growth ... can you estimate how many ours of sun they might actually get ...

in 2000 i used botany shop ....see link ...

http://botanyshop.com/?s=green+giant

use garden watchdog for both ...

ken

1. no.

2. it's green giant...any size.

3. yeah, lack of full sun is going to be a problem, unless you like skinny arbs that do not look like the pics. there's a lot of discussion about what full sun really means...for most evergreen screens, the more sun, the better.

Due to their Thuja plicata parentage, 'Green Giants' are more shade tolerant than most arbs. Part shade is fine. In my area these are frequently planted in semi-shady conditions - full sun is always a tricky proposition in the PNW - and they grow perfectly well.....just perhaps not quite as densely. Start small - no more than about 3'. They will establish quickly and start putting on growth faster than a larger transplant. Plenty of water - but with well drained soil - will hasten growth

It's hard to estimate how much sun. It is such a lengthy run about 400'(not in a straight line). It seems sun comes and goes. Also the leaves on the trees haven't fully come in yet so that's another variable.

I think I might go with the quart sized ones 12"-16" tall for $6.95 each. This way if they die or don't do so good in certain areas, I didn't lose out too bad. I will also check out that website that you've posted.

Can someone tell me:

4) If it is really necessary to mulch on top?

5) Do they take care of themselves as far as water and nutrients? Or is it going to be constant tending.

6) What spacing is good. The website says 5' to 6' apart for a tight screen. I see others saying 4' apart. What do you think?

Mulching helps to preserve soil moisture and keeps weeds down so yes, it is very beneficial in helping new trees establish.

With reasonably decent soil, nutrients are seldom an issue. Only a soil test will tell if you need to supplement. They will require frequent deep watering during their first growing season and I would expand that to at least two full growing seasons. But it depends on the frequency and volume of your rainfall as to how much and how often.

With an estimated 15-25' spread at maturity, 5-6' seems a bit tight to me and 4' is way too close. I'd consider 6' to be the minimum spacing and would lean more towards the 8' mark.

Ok. Yea I will really need to think about the spacing. Thank you so much for your time and advice as always.

I had several thuja many years ago. HUGE disappointment as they quickly became covered with bag worms. What a mess! Cut them down - not worth it.

Bagworms seem to be very locational in their presence. Much more of a common problem in the south or with high humidity than they are in a cooler climate. This is the land of the Thuja and bagworms here are virtually unheard of.

Ok so I am really considering the 1 quart (12" - 16"). Any questions that I should ask about this size before buying at least 100 of them @ $6.95each?

I didnt look at the website but hopefully they are not bare root. Choose the potted ones.

Why not bare root? A different species but I bet 198 of the 201 bare root metasequoias I have ordered shipped fine.

Also, what is the orientation of your screen? In otherwords, are they gonna shade eachothers bottoms out?

If I were to plant a screen of trees here where plants naturally grow I would be creating a 400 foot area I might have to weedeating and that I would have to pluck grapevine and honeysuckle from. In the arid parts of Colorado and elsewhere this is not a concern.

Can you provide each a gallon of water every couple days it does not rain for the first year or so? Finger tests will reveal your true watering needs. With my hot summers its what is most common here. That will maximize your survival rate.

Since you're talking 400 feet of space, I'm assuming you might be outside of an urban area. I might be saying something you already know but deer love thuja in the winter. If you have any deer pressure whatsoever, I would think hard about using this plant unless in a fenced area.

This is not the same plant as the common, narrow thujas you see everywhere, Thuja occidentalis. This is a hybrid between two different species, T. plicata and T. standishii. Thuja plicata is native to my area and is seldom, if ever, browsed by deer. They pretty much ignore it in favor of tastier dishes........like common arborvitae :-)

Green Giants have a reputation for being very resistant to deer predation.

Can someone tell me:

4) If it is really necessary to mulch on top?

HOW ARE YOU GOING TO PROPERLY WATER THEM.. OVER A 400 PLANTING .. ERGO .. YOU NEED MULCH TO MAKE WATER LESS PROBLEMATIC ... OR AN IRRIGATION LINE

5) Do they take care of themselves as far as water and nutrients? Or is it going to be constant tending.

NO NEWLY PLANTED PLANT.. CAN TAKE CARE OF WATER BY ITSELF ... DURING THE FIRST YEAR ... ESPECIALLY SINCE YOU PROBABLY ALREADY MISSED PRIME PLANTING TIME.. IN YOUR ZONE ... SEE LINK BELOW ...

AS TO FERT.. THEY WILL NEVER NEED ANY FERT.. THEY ARE TREES.. NOT CHILDREN.. THEY WONT GET HUNGRY ... AND I PLANTED IN SAND ...

6) What spacing is good. The website says 5' to 6' apart for a tight screen. I see others saying 4' apart. What do you think?

SPACING IS TUNED TO YOUR GOAL ... AND HOW LONG YOU DONT MIND WAITING FOR THAT GOAL TO BE ACHIEVED ... IF YOU WANT TO HIDE THE NEIGHBORS YESTERDAY.. YOU BUY LARGE PLANTS.. AND PLANT THEM CLOSE TOGETHER... IF YOU HAVE MORE TIME THAN MONEY.. YOU PLANT THEM FURTHER APART ... AND LET THEM GROW UP ...

===>>>> enough of those caps ...

i THINK you are a novice ... so the following things cross my mind ... forgive me if i presume wrong :

i think your nuts going for 100 all at once ... over the hundred years these might live .. there is no need to plant them all at once ...

whenever you plant in multiples.. expect some loss ... its just the odds ...

never plant in a straight line ...

the common shovel is 6 feet long.. use it to measure [measure yours first, and act accordingly] ... and weave in and out over the 400 hundred feet ... if you want less than 6 feet ... just put some tape on your shovel at the mark you want ...

see link.. all trees should be bare rooted and planted in native soil ... the only thing pots will give you now.. is flexibility in planting time ...you can hold them in pots longer.. if life gets in the way ...

small plants can be planted with the dibble method ... and you can use a common shovel to do it.. no need for the actual dibble ....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jhqa3yeLxhk

as noted.. timing of planting is imperative ... and your probably past that date in your area ... its all about when the heat of summer is going to hit.. and whether the plants can get settled in and pumping water.. before such ...

if i were you.. to start the learning curve.. i might order 20 or so.. and then more for the next proper planting season.. probably fall.. after the heat of summer ends ... it will be more visually interesting.. over the years.. if they vary in size ... who really wants a 400 foot green curtain ... so plant every third or forth one ... and then in the next session ... plant every second ... etc ...

any that die from this planting.. can be filled in with the next phase ...

coffee buzz... maybe i will come up with more.. later.. lol .. lots to think about ... [its so bad.. i cant find my coffee cup for more.. lol .. maybe thats a good thing ...]

when dealing with trees.. try to think in tree time.. and that is years and decades ... not i want this done yesterday ....

ken

https://sites.google.com/site/tnarboretum/Home/planting-a-tree-or-shrub