If you can make a measured drawing of the floor plan, that would be a great help. Especially where the door is located on the wall, the distance from the door framing to the two respective corners. In my drawing above (the photoshopped version of your original drawing) having the toilet opposite the vanity will give you an additional 11" of knee room over what you have now. That's based on the premise that your tub is 32" wide and the typical vanity is about 21" deep. 60" of counter space is about the minimum for a two-bowl vanity. Without moving your door, if the door swing does interfere with the vanity and the vanity was shortened for door swing, you should still be able to fit a 5' long vanity even with the swing of a 3-0 bathroom door since the room is 8' deep. How big (wide) is your current door? Two bowls in a 60" vanity can be done, but it can also look cramped. Instead of cramming two bowls into a small vanity top, I'll sometimes recommend a wider trough sink with two faucets, one faucet on each back corner of the trough. That way two users can wash faces, brush teeth, etc, while still having their own faucet and for the most part, their own sink space, even though it is a shared sink. And don't forget, there's absolutely nothing wrong with having a single bowl even when you can fit two. Or three. My wife had carte blanche with our master bathroom. And she absolutely insisted on one sink. There are ways to incorporate wall switches to the left or right of the bathroom door. The swing of the entry door could be reversed if needed. But again, an accurate measured drawing will help so we can see if a tub can fit there. There's always the idea of the tub with a slight stem wall. Again, I'm crossing to many bridges.

Renovator8- Thanks for your input, it is greatly appreciated. Garage Stairs to the basement: We've talked about this in the past & the DH has these very high on his "must have" list. We had this before and he utilized them frequently. They lead into a "shoppe" area and he frequently went from outside, to garage, to basement with dirty workboots, etc. I actually like your idea for the stairs. I believe at first our idea was the turn provided a seperation from the "piano area" and the foyer. However, I see that it really does not and see the benefits. I also believe traffic from the family room will better enter the stairs if straight. I must admit I have also pictured boys acrobatically swinging over towards the family room rather than make the turn of the stairs and come back around. I know you are not a fan of wider isalnds, but I was hoping to widen that one some (used to a 48"+ width island). I was worried about it feeling too tight between that walk way when we had a lot going on in there. Saving for a new piano:) Lavender Lass- We will be looking at the layout upstairs. We were going to put 3 boys in one room, if this one happened to be a girl. 3 boys to a room is not a bad idea, but with the age/spacing of our boys it seems best to do two in each room. Thanks for all the input and ideas...We have a lot more to think about!

LC For window walls, I love the butted glass look. You might want to view "Paul Mclean Floating Glass House" on utube for a great example of butted glass. It's probably going to be the most cost effective way to get wide open expansive views in terms of glass cost. Putting a lot of glass in a wall will require structural considerations that most likely will have to be certified by an engineer. Engineers are not necessarily expensive. I put a heavily windowed wall in one of my remodels and it was $500 for the engineer. Well worth the cost to get my plans approved. Single pane butted glass does have it's pitfalls mainly a much lower r-value than double paned, Double paned glass panels will significantly improve the r-value, but definitely consider your local temps. Double pane will have a visible seam, but a aluminum furring strip would cover that and not be too obtrusive. I've priced a double pane laminated 6' x 9' piece of glass at Home Depot at $2400. Installation will be a little pricy, but much less than what I've seen from some of the national glass companies. I would contact a local glass company and talk to them about butted single pane and double pane glass. Key conversation would also be with your builder and a structural engineer. Wood frame walls with minimal surface area will require lots of structural ties.

We will replace 2 sliding glass doors (72"x80") with metal frames, likely original to our 49-yr-old house, because they've fogged and one is hard to move. Our contractor recommends Viwinco and the distributor he sent us to seconded that and showed an S-Series unit (vinyl clad exterior & interior) with Northern Zone glass pkg. We also looked at Anderson Narrowline 200 Series. Is Anderson worth the additional cost? Online I read mixed reviews of Viwinco, all at least 5 years old, along with recommendations for Sunrise (no local dealer in NE Pennsylvania) and Okna. Okna is carried by big box stores but I don't know what model to look for. At our "advanced age," we don't know how long we'll remain in the house. What do you recommend?