Tricks for Designing with Exuberant Own Root OGRs
portlandmysteryrose
7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago
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Your Observations On Your Own-Root vs. Grafted Roses
Comments (19)Great topic! I think most of us have pondered this question over the years. Generally, I'm with Jeri on this one (maybe influenced by similar coastal climate limits!). But, I also think that Malcolm has it right - it is more effective to actually compare results from using the same rose on its own roots vs grafted. So, I think I would combine the two perspectives here. Not only comparing the same rose, but also including how different local climates can determine which method is more appropriate. So, for me, I have been struggling with trying to encourage some of the hardier teas to thrive better in my PNW coastal garden, where our hot summer days are limited. I remember reading a comment from Paul Barden a while ago about how he would like to try Gloire de Dijon, as a grafted plant, to see if that would add more vigor. I second that particular desire! I think this ties in with what Jeri was also saying. Maybe I should try to get a grafted version of Lady Hillingdon and compare its progress to the plant I have (own roots), which has been slow ( to say the least!). Hmmm. It would certainly save room in our greenhouse if it worked! Happy new year, especially for all those Ox people! Ian...See Morelast 9 years of grafted vs own-root
Comments (35)Interesting Post! I've been an advocate of own-root roses for several years, but I have to admit grafted (if healthy) almost always seem to grow bigger (or at least as big). A main reason I like own-roots is they seem particularly well-suited to life in a pot, so Ceterum's question about growing them first in a pot might actually be a key factor to success. I know from experience that roses on Fortuniana (down here in the South, at least) will grow the biggest of all. That's precisely why I avoid it. Dr. Huey I don't like simply because the root structure is one of long central tap-roots that always find their way quickly out the bottom of the pot and aren't happy confined. But small doesn't always mean weak or unhappy. I heard a rule of thumb years ago that seems to be mostly true; that varieties which tend toward bushiness/many branches will tend also to develop good roots. I've had many own-root roses, about half of them minis but the rest mostly hybrid teas, and the HTs vary a lot. Many old and newer do great own-root; some don't. I've lost count of the roses I've given to neighbors and friends because they had gotten too big to be happy in pots. Once in the ground they quickly get even bigger. But back to Ceterum's question about letting the young roses mature some first in pots: Maybe that's the key. The one's I've given away after 2-4 years tend to do terrific in the ground; they've had lots of time to build up a good root system in friable potting soil and without competition from neighboring plants and trees. Incidentally, some of the hybrid teas I've grown own-root that did very well include: Paradise, Gold Medal, the old HT Mrs. Herbert Stevens (really more of a tea), Lady Luck, Fragrant Plum, Tiffany, Helmut Schmidt, Touch of Class, Artistry, Timeless, and Olympiad. Radiance is OK own-root, but I wonder if it would do better grafted. Some new ones for me that look promising are Deep Secret(kind of slow its first year but now looking bushy and vigorous, though still short, its 2nd spring), Dame de Coeur, Lagerfeld (still kind of gangly but growing big--I only got it last fall), all 3 I just got from Roses Unlimited, including Jardins de Bagatelle, Chrysler Imperial, and Papa Meilland (Ceterum had cautioned that PM may take 3-4 years to come into its own, but already it had 3 flower buds and it just came in mid-March. JdB has already produced 4 gorgeous blooms and seems to want to repeat rapidly, even continously! CI looks great too. Alec's Red is 1 year old and small but healthy and blooming well. A few HTs I thought were happier grafted include: Fragrant Cloud, Mr. Lincoln, Valencia, Just Joey, Double Delight, and Honor. The others I'm excited about are all mini floras or minis, so I guess they don't count for this discussion, since they're always own-root. But Man! Leading Lady and Whirlaway might as well be small hybrid teas, the blooms are so big and perfectly formed!...See MoreNeed Advice- Most Heat Tolerant OGR Class or Top Roses
Comments (44)There's a thread on Mons tiller fries in the sun, see below: "Mine fried after an hour or two in the sun, more so than my other tea roses so it's no longer with me in my hot garden. Clementina Carbonieri did the same thing. A pity, since both are beautiful roses. Ingrid." ***** From Straw: I'm adding own-root Yves Piaget on my rose-order for next year, along with Young Lycidas and Romantica "The McCartney" rose. I researched again on Yves Piaget: the person who grows Yves both as own-root vs. grafted reported wimpiness for both. Someone from PNW (rainy & cool) climate also reported Yves being wimpy. Robert Rippetoe in his Rancho Mirage climate of exreme heat, drought, and alkaline sandy soil .... grows Yves Piaget and uses it in his breeding program ... so it must be very good for him. I figured out what makes Romanticas works: fluffy potting soil for the roots to get big, then transfer to fertile clay. I have Yves Piaget's children bred by Robert Neil, I put gypsum in the pots, and they went beserk with growth. Ingrid in this forum once grew Yves, but it didn't do well in the heat ... she has loose de-composed granite soil high in potassium. That's different from Ingrid in Thousand Oaks, who has clay. According to Wikipedia, high potassium or high nitrogen drives down calcium. The Romanticas have a higher demand for calcium than other roses, they are very sensitive to salt, so saline soil is not suitable. Calcium in gypsum is used to de-salt saline soil. That explains why Mons.Tillier works for Jaspermplants in Arizona, but didn't work for Ingrid with high-potassium soil. Arizona is alkaline clay high in calcium like my Chicagoland clay ... I'm next to a limestone quarry. Calcium is known to firm up tissue of plants, and helps with drought-tolerance, which explains for the success of Romanticas in my limestone clay. Here's an excerpt on calcium from the site http://www.oxyfertil.com/royaume-uni/role-ca-mg-plante.html · increases the plant tissues' resistance and allows for more erect stems · contributes to normal root system development · increases resistance to outside attack Here is a link that might be useful: Does your Mons. Tillier fry in the sun? This post was edited by Strawberryhill on Fri, Jul 12, 13 at 10:58...See MoreThe sideffect of the OGR own root trend? Will many roses get lost?
Comments (31)I think rather than that consumers "pushed" nurseries to sell own-root roses, nurseries opened up and promoted own-root roses as an alternative to budded roses -- because that's what they were set up to produce. That people have come to prefer many -- but not all -- that way indicates that the change had some merit. Personally, I think that own-root makes for a better growing most garden roses -- note I'm not speaking of HTs for showing, or other more "finicky" roses. I mean your average "flowering shrub" rose, either modern or old. Areas with particular climate and/or soil conditions which dictate preferences for particular rootstocks would be better served by specialists. If your "average rose" is budded, will that "average rootstock" be the one recommended everywhere? Nope. So if you're in a specific region where 'Fortuniana' is what needs to be below the surface, own-root would be just as inappropriate as one of the other rootstocks. If the big producers put everything on 'Dr. Huey' as a default, you're just as out of luck as if the default was own-root. So perhaps the answer would be more smaller nurseries set up for those regional specifics. Anyone willing to learn custom budding could become very popular with their local ARS chapter. :-) ~Christopher...See Moreportlandmysteryrose
7 years agoSheila z8a Rogue Valley OR
7 years agoAquaEyes 7a NJ
7 years agoMelissa Northern Italy zone 8
7 years agoLisa Adams
7 years ago
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