I like timeless tile schemes also, like your all white...and have learned from experience and too much analyzation of inspiration images that texture and layers trump color for impact. Break your white up by using shadow as a color- variences in tile depth when trim pieces are added (chair rails, bullnose, baseboards...) break up the flatness of simple field tile. Adding a horizontal line with trim at a traditional or non-traditional height and/or changing the direction of the subway for some portion of the room- breaks it up and keeps your options open for adding color to less perminant layers in the room. Also, you're right on about adding a bit of color between the floor and walls- I don't think matching wall base tile to the floor border tile is the best solution...keep the plane-change-line sharp. If you use small hex for the floor, consider a contrast by inserting a grey hex every 1/2 foot or so (the wide-spread polka dot effect will open the area too)or add the grey hex as a 3-4" solid or checked floor border around the entire room. Since there will be little color contrast on the walls, a contrast where floor meets wall is warming because it grounds the room. This is fun, huh? kat

I'm not a pro, but I've used that same Schluter decorative profile to trim around a shower niche before. When I cut the trim per Schluter's instructions, I initially ended up with a rough edge as well. I then took the time to gently sand the edge until it was crisp and smooth. (I had to cut the trim piece a little long in order to do this.) It was tedious, but I meticulously cut and sanded the pieces until I had a nice snug fit. It looks like your contractor did not put in this effort. Picture #3 looks especially egregious. While I think it will look better once grouted, I wouldn't be very pleased with this either. I believe this is the Schluter data sheet for these profiles. (Feel free to google Schluter RONDEC-DB to navigate there if you're not comfortable clicking the link. The data sheets are PDFs near the bottom.) Regarding finishes, it reads: "The profile is available in stainless steel, solid brass, chrome-plated solid brass, anodized aluminum, color-coated aluminum, textured color-coated aluminum and PVC. RONDEC’s wide range of materials, colors, and surface finishes allows for color coordination with tile and grout and the creation of interesting accents in decorative designs." That tells me that your contractor could have selected a color coated option to coordinate with your tiles if he'd asked you what you wanted and put in the effort to order it. I'm pretty sure I used the stainless steel option, but that's what I wanted. It also was available at a local store. If I wanted something specific, I would have had to order it in. I wonder if you contractor didn't want to put in that effort to order it.

No need to match bathrooms in any way....usually each bathroom decor/tile is directed more toward to the proposed users...”easier to clean” in potential kids baths...” more interesting and pretty” in guest baths...”more luxurious” in master baths...

@Amir Ali - I just wanted to post a comment in order to: 1. Let you know that I completely understand what you are going through right now. I have TWO FAILING slate floors that are part of current bathroom renovations. The master bathroom floor had not been grouted due to delays on his part. I discovered that some of the tiles were COMPLETELY LOOSE - and some sounded like they were only partially bonded to the floor. This floor is failing - and it has BARELY been walked on because the bathroom renovation basically stopped due to issues - bathroom isn’t usable so the only use has been when I’ve gone in there to take photos or measure something = maybe some tiles had been walked on four or five times before I started discovering the loose tiles. It is obvious that the tiles failed to bond to the floor - the mortar must have skinned over or something. I am NOT reinstalling the loose tiles. IMPORTANT - my former contractor does not fit the definition of what people here on Houzz love to refer to as a “hack” (at least not the actual business that I hired to do the work) - however, his employee clearly did not know what he was doing (or just didn’t care) - and that makes the owner of the business liable for this work. The business has hundreds of Google ratings (4.9/5), owner is a member of TCNA, I had several reviews from people I know (and trust), and I DID NOT JUST TAKE THE LOWEST BID - I am NOT a CHEAPSKATE. I am so tired of people AUTOMATICALLY blaming the homeowner when they have ZERO basis to do so. Making assumptions and basically telling homeowners that they are IDIOTS and CHEAP really makes me upset. Okay, I’m finished with my rant! 😂 The ”fix” is this: The ENTIRE floor is being torn apart. Not only is the tile being removed, the cbu will be taken out. New contractor assumes that he will also find that former contractor failed to add the required second layer of plywood in order to make sure that the substrate was prepared correctly in order to have a natural stone floor installed. Based upon the above issues, I investigated the slate floor that was installed in one of the other bathrooms back in April. I noticed a few grout issues - and as I went around knocking on each tile, the sound on many tiles indicates tiles that are only partially bonded. This is what the floor looks like from a standing position: And this is what it looks like when I realized that I needed to inspect it after the failure in other bathroom: I have cracks and broken spots of grout in many places. I also have some grout which is stuck on my tile because the contractor failed to seal the tile (as required) prior to grouting (I found this out later - I was in the hospital while this floor was being installed) and made promises over and over to come remedy the issue. So, this floor will also be ”fixed” in the same manner as the first one - I’m just waiting to have it ripped out until after the other bathroom is completely finished. 2. I also wanted to let you know that regardless of whether (i) you have a written contract, and (ii) that contracts specifically provides (or fails to provide) a five year (or however long) warranty period, you still have recourse against the contractor who installed your tile. Most states (probably all but I haven’t done research on this issue in every state) have enacted statutes that protect homeowners for this type of issue. In my jurisdiction, there are specific statutes that relate to home renovation projects - these statues require (among other things) that all work must be done in a good and workmanlike manner. Following industry standards, as well as manufacturer’s specifications, are part of this requirement. Also, the consumer protection act in my state also protects homeowners against contractors who perform shoddy work. I am 99% positive that your state will have some similar statutes. If you want to share your jurisdiction, I am happy to take a quick look in order to point you in the right direction. MANY jurisdictions require the homeowner to provide the contractor with notice and a right of remediation. Unless you follow the requirements of your particular statutes, you won’t be able to bring an action against your contractor to recover damages. FYI - my former contractor has chosen to ignore the notice I provided, so I then was free to hire another contractor to do the remediation work. My former contractor will owe me the money I have to spend to correct his failure to properly install my tile (which will greatly exceed what I paid him - removing tile + cbu + buying new material (including nice slate tile - because I didn’t purchase cheap slate tile for the the project initially). I am sorry that you’re going through this because it is NOT fun. I decided to consider myself “lucky” because he hadn’t yet installed this tile on my laundry floor! Hopefully, you won’t have water damage that will require even more remedial work in order to fix it.