The flowers do smell awesome! (sweet cherry)... Kristin needs to be made self fertile! The tree is a monster when it comes to surviving cold temps. I may just make a yearly trek to Door County and get my sweet cherry fix! Although last year 100% of the crop was destroyed. This year could be a bumper crop...

Well I guess I'm contributing to the hijack - sorry scraplolly! I used to live in a house with a driveway just like dtownjbrown and I hated it. So I was kind of interested in contributing to his story. You could think about mixing some evergreens in there. Microbiota, dwarf chamaecyapris, pencil holly, rug or pencil junipers, etc. But they are kind of dull in a row... Another way to go about this is to plant annuals for a few years to see what responds to the lighting. I would think you could grow coleus, petunias, maybe even an indeterminate tomato - cherry tomatoes, the italian plum tomatoes. I grow them in less than optimal sun in containers. My favorite is San Marzano - good for salsa. This year I'm growing calladiums in full sun planters so go try some new things - you never know what will work. Sometimes the repeated annual amendment helps also. Your soil looks good in the picture but who knows how old it is? You say it drains quickly- its possible that somewhere along the way somebody re-waterproofed and improved the drainage down deeper. When we had our back wall re-waterproofed they dug down 11 ft and then filled the space with limestone to about 2 ft from the top - then backfilled my topsoil on top of that. The space right up against my house is very dry as a result. A good resource for you would be the Botanical Gardens in the area - just do a search. Another good resource is the Plant Search function at MOBOT - Missouri Botanical Gardens. For ex. I just searched on Full sun to part shade, Dry to medium, 6-12 inches spread, Zone 3 for scraplolly and got a list of plants back - http://www.mobot.org/gardeninghelp/plantfinder/Results.asp I don't know if you want anything to hang out over the line of the bed into your driveway but I'd think about that as you select plants.(daylilies)Whacking the flower heads every time you drive in has a tendency to look kind of ugly. The above was in case you don't like my idea: Given the narrow space and lighting my personal recommendation would be to plant a unifying ground cover like pachysandra which is evergreen, make space intermittently to have a few clumps of daffodils/tulips and alliums in spring and then have a nice white lattice structure just covered in green ivy to cover the wall. I would have parts of the lattice go up 6-8 ft and parts down at the level your siding begins. - sort of like the silhouette of a town. I would use horizontal and vertical crossbars rather than the cheaper looking diamond shaped criss cross pattern. You need to fasten it so that it is out from the siding about 1.5-2 inches for long term home care. You don't want ivy putting tendrils into your siding or cement. Where you live you might succeed with Boston Ivy which is very colorful in the fall. An alternate might be grapes or hydrangea petiolaris which I doubt would be watered at all after established. I could see having round blue ceramic planters filled with colorful coleus and impatiens set right down into the pachysandra with the wall of green ivy behind them. To give more space you could have cutouts in the latticework to center the planter in the space. You could have a small water fountain on the wall among the vines - or frame it with the lattice. Another planter idea is pruned boxwood with annuals/trailing vines around them for summer - and you can do something with them for the holidays. You should be able to have Korean, Vardar Valley, Green Mountain, etc live in a container if you keep pruned. The Blue Girl holly also does well in low light/bright sun but you'd really have to stay on the pruning to keep a holly in bounds. I would also try some unobtrusive stick in the ground solar lights to create a soft glow after dark along the drive or you can wire lighting in. I get container combination ideas every yr from the White Flower Farms catalog - gorgeous stuff altho this yr they were too in love with bronze and orange combos. Shrubs that I have kept pruned for yrs to 12 to 18" wide are taxus, boxwood and believe it or not - euonymous - burning bush. I have a 3 ft deep bed along my house and its underplanted with pachysandra and the burning bush are at least 20 yrs old - you just have to keep up with the pruning to keep them to the size you want.

From personal experience, and from my classes at the Desert Botanic Gardens ... even when a plant is rated for "full sun" it often needs shade in a Phoenix summer. I plant my chilis and eggplants for morning sun and afternoon shade. They get 4-6 hours of direct sun in the mornings. You are 26ð17â²N and Phoenix is 33ð27â²N (so we're not wildly different in sun angle) Where we differ is in the humidity, with Al Khobar being seacoast and really humid. We are more likely to have frosts and killing low temperatures, your climate just cooks the plants. :) There is probably an atmospheric physics formula that can calculate the difference between light intensity at different latitudes, but I have no idea where to look. A website you might like is desert-tropicals.com because they report on what really grows in Phoenix. If you are gardening, sunset.com might have helpful planting schedules (you are in Zone 13 for their purposes), and the Maricopa County Master Gardeners planting schedules might be useful. http://cals.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/hort.htm

If you talk about T-bud or chip buds this time of the year, you use this year's wood. That's when is tough to be keep the wood fresh if shipped long distance or in the heat. finding wood locally is the way to go indeed. If you can wait to graft in the spring, you may be able to find some nurseries selling scionwood. Collecting scionwood during a dormant season/winter and graft in the spring is my way of doing it. Don't have much luck with chip or t-bud.