Ah, I see--you said 20 lbs/K ft above but 10 lbs below. If it's the 10 lbs, that's fine. Once. I'm assuming the 2 is parts per million, which means you don't have much at all (you're seriously deficient). I'm also thinking an organic method would be best--it's possibly not that you don't have any P, but that it's locked away. Your pH rots. Combine that with the humic matter percentage and you have no buffer to deal with it, either. I'm guessing you have that kind of red clay that you could practically throw a pot from (I had the same, but in white clay). BTW, early spring tests of pH tend to be on the lower end of what your soil will show. Fall tests are considered best. How to go about things depends on what you have. If you have a nice lawn and are pretty happy with it, then follow those recommendations (leave at least a week between liming and feeding). Even if the pH stays bad, a fast shift isn't what you want. You can consider an organic feeding regimen if it appeals to you. If it's not great, go ahead and lime at that rate. Thinking of shifting to an organic feeding methodology would be a good idea. Raising the organic matter in the soil will buffer your pH toward 6.7 or so, feed the grass, add and grab onto nutrients, and generally do nice things to the soil. If it's really bad, that 15 lbs of lime per thousand isn't going to go far toward bringing the pH up to optimal range. Absolutely think about organics as they're really going to help (for the reasons above). I can't locate the calculation offhand, but I'd go higher on the lime and do it again in two to three months, then have the soil re-tested in fall.

Thanks or the update Patty! Josh (greeman28) was saying I should consult you for advice so I'm glad you did the favor of responding to my post. I have read most of the cultivation forums over on the citrus forums by Jodi, Al, Mike, Josh, etc etc (really probably more extensive research than I should have, lots of reading lol) and am very familiar with what Foliage Pro is but unfortunately it is not sold here on my island. I would have to ship it in internationally which would be expensive so I have been trying to focus on using what is available locally. I think I do remember reading that urea requires soil microbes to break it down before it is available to the plant? If so I can see why that would pose a difficulty in containers, especially how most of mine are 1-2 gallons and not large enough to support any decent microbial activity. I'm very familiar with Osmocote Plus as well, and it does seem like a great CRF. My only issue with it is that it is incredibly expensive over here (something like $10/lb) whereas the Sunniland 6-4-6 was less than $20 for 40 lbs. I will apply the 6-4-6 to my in-ground plants then (no citrus but a few Sapodillas, Mangoes, many Bananas, some Coconuts, an Avocado and a Spondias mombin, known locally as 'Hog Plum' but more well-known as either Yellow Mombin, Java Plum or Ashanti Plum). If the issue with the urea is salt build up in containers, could I still use it in them and just water/flush regularly to leach any excess salt out? It does have some nutritional value that I assume would be available in containers (contains phosphate and potash, and some ammoniacal nitrogen and various micros). Also, I've been wondering how much my irrigation water has to do with how my container plants update nutrients. I tested it using phenol red solution (6.8-8.2) and it tested out as 8.2+, which is believable as our water is pumped from 100% limestone aquifiers and presumably contains lots of dissolved Ca and Mg (which is why I don't look for those in my fertilizers). However, I used the same phenol red (came with my dad's pool test kit) to determine the right amount of 3.3% sulfuric acid to use to lower the pH to 5. I think I used the pool kit incorrectly, as when searching online I found out phenol red only shows pH over a range of 6.8 to 8.2 (which suggests my irrigation water could be higher than 8.2) so I did not get a true 5 reading. If I may ask what do you use to test your water pH? I went to a local hardware store but they only had other pool kits, which usually do not test for "low" pH around 4 and 5.

Yes, it's the same rose. The year I bought my two I think it was listed as 2.5 feet or something odd. HMF says 3-6 feet, but used to say only 3, I think. But funniest is HMF says Ascot grows up to 18 inches wide--mine is about 7 feet. It's a good thing I just happened to plant the one in the photo in a place with lots of room, but I have had to remove a lavender, dianthus, and will remove another big lavender this spring to make way. It's currently duking it out with a huge snowball bush. Who will win? Diane Ascot in 2013--see how far away the snowball is? The rose is touching it now. The lavender on the right is gone and other will soon be gone; it's being crushed.

Math Error in First Post added Correction. The TDS in Foliage Pro Solution must be much higher than approximated. Edit: Math Error 1tsp= 4.94 ml 4.94grams at sp=1 1US Gal = 3.785411784 liters (0.18)*(4.94g/4)/3785= 235ppm Error Should be (0.18)*(4.94g/4)/3785= 58.7ppm at conversion factors of 500 ppm/mS or 640 ppm/mS 58.7ppm/500= 117uS or 58.7ppm/640= 91.7uS Too Low to be accurate "Edit: Math Error 1tsp= 4.94 ml 4.94grams at sp=1 1US Gal = 3.785411784 liters (0.18)*(4.94g/4)/3785= 235ppm Should be (0.18)*(4.94g/4)/3785= 58.7ppm at conversion factors of 500 ppm/ms or 640 ppm/ms 58.7ppm/500= 117uS or 58.7ppm/640= 91.7uS Too Low to be accurate "Not sure I'd have been comfortable with the assumptions behind the "total" ppm approximation" You were Correct on that Maybe others that use Foliage Pro can validate the EC readings with other meters. Even at 320 grams/Liter 1/4 tsp/Gal gives only about 105ppm total concentration. This is about 164 uS at 640 factor.