There's so much I want to ask that I forgot to mention the indoor/outdoor question. I am currently in Lincoln, NE. The weather is approaching warmth and some humidity, and I'm sure it will be hot this summer. I have a big backyard with areas of shade as well as full-sun throughout the day.

Can I grow these species indoors, and, if so, at what cost?

What's the best way to 'do it right'?

Thank you for your quick response and advice.

What is the deciding factor between a full re-pot and an up-pot for either species? What does a full re-pot entail that an up-pot won't cover?

Regarding the graft, what techniques or methods could be used now to alleviate its appearance over time? I have seen posts here about sphagnum being used, but is there a correct time to do something like this?

I made this thread expecting most of the advice to include planting them in the ground, based on time spent in other advice threads. I am open to doing so. When planting in the ground, what do I need to know about the soil it's going into? Is it beneficial to re-create a gritty mix within the earth? What techniques can be used to shield the trees from the wind?

Aside from all these things, what immediate steps should I take prior to putting them into the ground (assuming that's the plan)? Watering, etc?

Thanks again for your help!

If you are going to keep it in container you will be better off fully repotting in a proper mix that is well draining. Maples like it little wetter and evergreens like it on the drier side - so the mix needs to be appropriately adjusted for each. Repotting implies bare-rooting and completely changing the soil. But can be done only at specific times. For maples it is somewhere around mid to late March when the buds start swell. For evergreens it is usually a little later like mid April when they start pushing new growth. There are specific timing for mugho pines, flowering trees and some other species.

At other times if needed because of root congestion, too small pot, etc, it is better to lightly prune the roots and up-pot. This ensures the health of the plants so that they can be bare-rooted at the next opportunity.

For in ground planting it is better to keep it close to existing soil. Assuming the existing soil is pretty decent with good amount of organic matter. Just garden soil that is good enough for perennials.

Maples may benefit from some protection from wind both in hot summer days and winter time. Close to a big hedge may help. Or some other forms of barrier like a fence.

Hinoki should be in full sun as much as possible. The first year it may need some protective mulch and a wind barrier. I usually pile up fall leaves around small plants. Cover the roots with leaves too for the winter.

You can start fertilizing the maples. Keep it moist. For hinoki wait to fertilize till it shows new growth. Keep both moist in the meanwhile.

Find where the graft line of the maple is. Cut of growth below the graft line as soon as you notice it. Also read up on the net on basics of pruning maples and hinoki's. You do not have any emergency here just so that you can start fussing with them and practicing.

So sorry about not getting to your message sooner. It's repotting season and I'm really behind in answering Houzz mail. Did you mention where you live? I asked because care instructions are influenced by geography.

Generally speaking, what your maple looks like now is unimportant (answer to did I pick good trees) because only a tiny fraction of the mass you purchased will be a part of your bonsai. You choose deciduous and tropical broadleaf trees based on how their roots look. Having some very low branches is a big plus in some species that don't back-bud reliably.

The trees you chose are in some respects easy because both practically get buds ON beds. IOW, they're prolific back-budders on not too old wood. The maple's branches get stiff and hard to wire very quickly, and the tree fattens quickly, so wire can't stay on the tree too long. Develop the maple from the bottom up. Let the lower branches thicken and ramify by restraining the top. Your tree will likely be made using only the first pair of branches above the soil, so treat the entire top above those branches as a sacrifice branch. It looks like there is one thick branch with a newly formed branch opposite (first pair of branches). What I would do:

I would cut several branches off above the first pair so the first pair gets plenty of sunlight. Like this:

Other than removing the branches just above the first pair to get light to your developing tree. you don't care about the top because it's coming off at some point. Prune the heavy branch moving to the right in the first image back to 1 pair of leaves. This should force buds to pop close to the trunk. The closest bud to the trunk that breaks on the fat branch will be the tree's temporary top/leader, so train it in the direction you want it to grow while it's very young.

You won't likely have any success trying to grow your trees indoors.

Re the Chamaecyparis: The entire top of the tree will go away when you chop it. Your tree is in the branches just inches from the soil line. Again, I would prune ALL branches that shade that small cluster of branches at the bottom. Wait for one of the low branches to prove it's vigor and remove the rest of the low branches. The branch you choose will be the part you develop into your tree. Ideally, you would find an experienced bonsai practitioner who is willing to look at the roots and suggest where the 'front of your tree should be and develop it accordingly. Roots are a very important part of your composition. In time, if you stick with bonsai, you'll find yourself grafting roots and branches to trees you want to keep in your collection; this, in order to improve their eye appeal.

I hope what I said made sense to you?

Al

Thanks so much for responding, I really appreciate it.

I'm in southeast Nebraska. Also, the trees aren't 1" in diameter... probably more like .5"... I measured circumference the first time around.

Regarding the maple:

As I said, I'd been thinking about planting it to help thicken it up and let it grow... does your advice re: pruning and cutting make a difference in that decision? If I prune it as you advise, is it safe to also transplant it into the ground? I have been reading voraciously about this stuff and found others advising to keep the plant in the pot it came in and just practice with it for at least a year to ensure good roots, but I also have a nice spot that gets good morning sun and afternoon shade as well as providing wind relief, so I'm unsure about how to proceed there.

How I have searched through threads here about pruning, but do you have any resources that you know of which might be helpful for either of these trees? When you say to prune the largest branch down to two leaves... which two should I keep?

I have many more questions that I'll think of later, but one of the ones that's been on my mind is this: is there a way to accentuate or exaggerate the graft line? I purchased the tree without knowing enough about such things, but now that I'm stuck with it, and it seems that I'll be unable to hide it... is there such a thing as stressing a graft to create something unusual or interesting? If not, what methods should I be using now to minimize it going forward?

Regarding the cypress:

I was under the impression that this particular species did not back-bud on old wood, and that I would most likely have to be careful in my choices or run the risk of losing options in the future... is this not true? I've had a difficult time finding a good resource devoted to this specific type of cypress.

When you say 'prune branches', you are talking about cutting the whole branch off, correct?

Again, thank you for taking the time to respond. I'm anxious to 'do something' with these things, but I want to make sure it's the right choice for the long-term. I don't mind planting them and just letting them grow for awhile, as I enjoy the way they look right now.

What resources (books, forums, etc) can you recommend for either of these trees?

What photographs of these trees can I take that would give you a better idea of them or help you make suggestions?

Update with photos:

Both of the trees seem to be doing alright. I have been watering when the drainage holes feel dry, but have not worked with a 5:1:1-type mix and am slightly anxious about doing it wrong there. Some very minor browning on the edges of some tiny maple leaves and on a few areas where I did some pruning on the cypress... what's that indicate?

I've found a good spot in the yard that receives full morning sun and full afternoon shade, and have begun the process of amending the soil in a 3'x3' area– do you have advice for how to best prepare the ground for the maple?

Am still waiting for some more input on the extent of cutting and pruning to be done to it before putting it in the ground, and still somewhat confused on the order of things there.

Here's a few closer shots of the maple's branches to help with pruning/cutting advice:

I am also still interested in the concept of accentuating the graft however possible.

Thanks again for all your help!

Had been super busy but popped in to say something about pruning. It is a complex subject but here are some starting points:

a. Save low branches for fattening the trunk. In fact a branch will fatten up any part of the plant below it.

b. Prune for a bifurcation (like a 'Y'). You do not want trifurcations - maples naturally will trifurcate.

c. Prune branches to one or two nodes especially the vigorously growing straight branches. Maples do that always and makes it look like a broom.

d. Prune off one of the branches where it trifurcates on your main stem. Otherwise it may end up swelling at the junction a lot causing a 'reverse taper'. Prune to form a left-right-left-right ... branching structure.

I am not an expert in bonsai - probably intermediate or so. I can say that you will need to spend a lot of time on google. Also there are are other forums that are more active like 'bonsai nut', 'international bonsai society' etc.

Also if you are going to put it in soil then do it as soon as you can.

Look at this thread for pruning maples.