Hi.. don't know where to start here. It's a bad time of year to be pruning at all, let alone what you did. Repotting before giving the tree a chance to get used to its new home was not the best idea. Cutting/breaking roots like that - ditto - and BTW, the idea in bonsai USED to be that when you root pruned to fit the tree into a bonsai pot, you trimmed foliage 'to balance it' (not the other way around), but that too has gone by the wayside as not really being necessary, or very helpful unless the difference is very great - it's more a matter of learning which root mass affects which branches, etc. (you can trace that to some extent). As well, you didn't mention at all what you repotted into - what kind of soil mix, which is really important, and may well account for the yellowing, but then so could the pruning, amount of water you used altogether, etc. etc. And when you do repot BTW, light shade is indicated for weeks afterward, if not most of the whole season. So while I hate to rain on your enthusiasm, it's too bad you couldn't have asked first, 'done' later, but now it's just a matter of waiting til spring (if not obviously sooner) to see how things go. For the record, junipers need a mix of almost all gritty, gravelly stuff with no peat in there to hold onto water - the grit lets it flow right thru - and maybe just a little fir bark, but I have a feeling yours isn't quite there yet either. However, doing anything at all to your tree at this point will definitely cause even more stress, outweighing whatever you do - but go very easy on how often you water.

Currently your azalea is in good shape, with new foliage looking healthy. "make sure you water often, azaleas love water" Please don't follow these directions as the poster is in Houston TX and probably does fine with azaleas there, but this won't work in midwestern clay. As a former Ohioan, this will leave your azalea with roots deprived of oxygen from saturated soil. I would mulch around your azalea with wood chips which will help keep the ground evenly moist and will over time add organic matter. Don't put them right against the trunk, however; leave a few inches between the trunk and where the mulch starts. If you haven't had significant rain for more than a week, stick your finger down through the mulch into the soil around your azalea to feel whether it needs water. You don't want the rootball soggy, but you don't want to let it get really dry as it can be hard to get the grower's mix to rewet. You have chosen a reasonable spot for it where it gets good light, but shelter from the worst of the southern sun. This may help during the winter months. Keep your receipt and if/when it dies, get a refund. akamainegrower referred to "iron clad" rhododendrons. Your Roseum elegans is one of them. They have the potential to get huge, though, so it isn't a great foundation plant. If you can plant it in a spot where it gets lots of summer light, but a building or evergreen gives it shade with the winter sun angle, you will be less likely to get winter-burned foliage. Planting a bit high in clay, and then putting soil around the raised part of the rootball and mulch on top of that will help prevent drainage issues, since as the chips start to rot the roots will grow into the nice organic rich soil that is to its liking. You will need to renew the mulch every year or two. I didn't plant this roseum elegans (planted by PO), but it is 4' from ground level to the window sill, 12' to the gutter and the center of the plant is 6' from the house. The plant is about 20 years old.

Relax. As soon as you said "on the inside of the tree", that made it clear that you have nothing to worry about. Evergreens like pines keep their needles for several years, but eventually they drop their old needles just like deciduous trees drop their leaves each fall. You usually don't notice needle-drop on spruce because they hold onto needles for something like 5 years, so the needles that are going to be lost in late summer/fall are deep in the canopy and won't be noticed. But most pines hold onto their needles for only several years, plus their canopy is fairly open to begin with so what is going on inside the canopy is more visible, and every year from mid-August until mid-September, when the old pine needles are yellowing and dropping, people become worried about their pines. Relax, it's normal and to be expected, and it will happen every year around this time.

Fortunately, we have NOT had any freezing lately. Lowest temps have been in the 40s. We don't have bunnies in my neighborhood, it's too urban. And, there is a pair of redtailed hawks on the campus of a college down the street, as well as a few feral kitties. That's why I think it's transplant shock. One of the transplanted hostas' outer leaves seem to have some blackish streaks developed in them, and I am sure those leaves are goners. But that and the other hosta losing outer leaves are definitely growing new leaves in their centers, so I am not particularly worried about them now. It's been raining most of the day and will continue through the night, so they are getting a nice gentle soak. The newly transplanted hostas and their companion heuchies definitely perked up after I watered them yesterday. I just ordered some new aluminum I.D. tags for my new babies!