Generally speaking, with any plant you should water thoroughly, until the soil is saturated and runs out freely. I personally put my plants (even the 5 1/2 foot tall cacti, which is always a fun time) in the shower and spray them down, let them drain, and then bring them back out, so I have no idea what a ballpark figure would be. I'd say you're probably better off to move the plastic pot back and forth, because if you think it's heavy *now*, wait until you try to lift a 16-inch clay pot full of wet soil. That said, people do manage, sometimes, to water without moving their plant all over creation. Not sure how to advise on this one, because it depends on how blocked the drainage holes are, the season, the type of soil you have in the pot, how wet the plant is now, the temperature, etc. Also, to go back a few topics: Spider mites are possible, but not likely to affect the whole tree all at once within a few days of bringing it home. I would do a google search for pictures, so you'll know them if you see them, but I wouldn't worry about them either. dgmarie: I would think that neither the alkalinity nor the iron content of the well water is likely to be that big of a deal. Or at least, I would assume that the salt content of the softened water is a much bigger deal. I wouldn't worry about adding supplemental iron: it's probably not necessary.

Most likely you're overwatering. It's practically assured, infact. Watering should be thorough, wetting and flushing the entire soil-mass. Then, the soil should be allowed to dry out between waterings. Use a wooden dowel or skewer stuck all the way into the container to measure the amount of moisture in the deeper layers (this is key). If the stick comes out clean and dry, water. If the stick comes out damp or dark, don't water. re-test every 2 days until the soil is dry enough to water again. A wick (synthetic fiber/string) can also be stuffed into a drainage hole and allowed to dangle below the container to reduce excess moisture in the bottom of the pot. These tricks will help you limp your plant through the winter, but they won't take the place of a properly made mix and a full re-potting next Spring/Summer. Josh

I agree with scott_ga: Nothing to worry about. Fig mosaic virus affects hundreds of fig varieties and in my experience doesn't harm anything much except the appearance. As for species, there are many, and figs can be hard to identify, although pictures of the ripe fruit exterior, what it looks like cut open, and the dimensions can help in an ID.

As the guide said juniper needs to be outside to go through a period of cold dormancy. Inside it is hard to achieve that. Is there a cold spot right next to a window with no direct sunlight and no heater next to the window? You can try keeping the plant in a box with one side open towards the window and keeping the box right against the window. The idea will be to let the cold outside keeps the box inside cool. Hopefully it will create a small micro-climate of cooler conditions there. Juniper like to be dry and so water only when it feels dry. Use a chopstick and poke in the soil to get a feel for how dry it is. No need to fertilize now since it will not be growing. Around April it should start showing signs of growing again. That will be the time to repot, prune, pinch and shape. For soil read this forum post to get started. It talks about soil mixes for containers. Bonsai is no different. You want to make or buy some version of the "gritty mix". Look at bonsaijack.com or dallasbonsai.com for premixed soils. In the mean time read up on juniper care and styling on the internet. There is no hurry. There are a lot of good videos on youtube. I just do not have links handy.