Stem too thin on Aeonium variegated 'Suncup'?
mariec_6a
7 years ago
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mariec_6a
7 years agoRelated Discussions
Aeonium Advice
Comments (18)Hi, I see that this post is pretty old, but I was wondering if your Aeonium is doing better? If it is, what did you change? Same goes for if it didn't, lol. I started growing aeoniums a few years ago and I was really annoyed that none of mine did what they were "supposed" to do after thorough research. So, I started letting them tell me what they needed and when. A small kiwi pinwheel became so leggy that the stems broke and it had almost no variegation. That told me it needed sun, and I rooted the rosettes that broke off and gave it more light. Perfect. Now it looks more like the clumpy mound that I was hoping for. If the soil feels bone dry, I water it no matter what time of year. I had a Z that started like the one in your photo and I had it in full, hot sun (indoors). Even in the winter, the rosettes would fold upward and even turn away from the window. I moved it farther from the window and by the next morning, each rosette was beautifully flat. I would gauge it's water needs by the plumpness of the leaves. At the time, I lived in northern MT. I find that trial and error give me better results with my plants than trying to Google myself to death, lol. When looking at the photo you posted, I would agree with the others who said it looked like a lighting issue. The leaves look very healthy but the downward curve seems like it would benefit from more light. You did say that you thought it had too much light, and that would make me question the soil. You mentioned that you use a high quality bonsai mix and another poster mentioned that it contained a lot of fine particles. I have found that too fine of a mix tends to sort of inhibit the root growth of mine. So, I began using plain old potting soil mixed with rough gravel at 70/30 with a few small rough stones thrown in. I know it doesn't sound very scientific or sophisticated, but I've had the best results with "nothin' fancy". I fertilize with water from my fishtank or with Schultz 10-15-10 if I remember and that's been it. I've watched a 6" tall single-stemmed rosette Z cutting grow to a 18", multi-branched (branches on branches-yay!) beauty in a little over a year by doing just what I've described. I know that everyone gets results differently and I'm curious to hear how yours is doing. I've never tried a bonsai mix and I think I might pick some up now. :-)...See MoreNecrotic Section Aeonium Sunburst
Comments (12)It took me a long time to figure out what Sunburst liked. I finally am able to keep them without killing them. This is a new development. Usually they would always die someway or another. I drive by people's houses and see beautiful specimens, and wonder why can't I grow them:). I've found for me they do not like a ton of sun, maybe four hours of morning sun, then the rest of the day bright filtered light. I water all my Aeoniums once every 10 days in the summer. I would do what Lisa has advised:). This was the first Aeonium Sunburst that I finally figured out what they like. This one was a cutting that I stuck in my Firestick pot. He gets tons of filtered light, but nothing direct. I don't have tons of Sunburst, but like I said it took me a long time to crack their code. I'm talking years. It comes down to sun and water with guys. Not to much of either:)....See MoreAeonium is dying? help!
Comments (17)It is probably A. canariensis... You could use the same pot BUT: *wash it well before re-using (if there was rotting plant in there...) *use very well draining mix Otherwise, you could have similar situation. If in a pinch, you could use a paper cup with holes punched for drainage. Until you find some pots - plastic pots will work too (many of my plants are in plastic). You can ask around if anyone was potting purchased plants/annuals and they may have spare pots. Or ask in a garden center - they often collect them for recycling and give away for free. 20-30*C may not be so bad, but since they are indoors you could use a fan: this will help with air circulation. Cut strait across and make sure no dark marks...if unsure - post a pic. Also, sterilize utensil (sharp blade/exacto knife) with a rubbing alcohol or hydrogen peroxide or even bleach: wipe off between each cut with a cloth/paper towel moistened with any of the above....See MoreHelp with Aeonium "Zwartkop" possible root rot
Comments (12)The first image (David's) shows a stem irreversibly compromised by a fungal infection, the tell being the longitudinal wrinkles in the stem between the soil line and the grafting tape. The wrinkles are resultant of vasculature destruction and subsequent desiccation in that immediate area. Whether or not any of the plant mass above that damage area will remain viable if treated as stock for cuttings remains to be seen, but the infection that undoubtedly started in the roots is now systemic. I grow and give away dozens of this variety of Aeonium every year. The next 2 are very tiny - in Chap Stick caps The plant is amazingly drought tolerant, and a very fast-draining and highly aerated medium offers best insurance against the rot issue you're experiencing now. I once prepared about a dozen small rosettes with short lengths of stem attached in January, but forgot about them and left them lie on a paper towel on the work bench in my basement until mid-May. During that time w/o soil or water, they produced a conspicuous volume of adventitious roots, and took right off when I finally potted them up in small pots. The tiny ones are potted in fine Turface screenings - about the size of restaurant-grind black pepper (inappropriate for anything other than tiny plantings); larger plants are in gritty mix. I keep hearing these plants are winter growers, but they grow all year long if you keep them out of the hot summer sun. I usually move them into shade in June and back into sun when it cools in the fall. I leave them outdoors until frost threatens, then bring them indoors under lights with the tropical bonsai I over-winter in my basement. Because I use a very fast soil, I'm able to fertilize and water them right along with everything else I grow in containers. I'd rate them as being very difficult to kill, so long as they're not over-watered. Because I use Sprint 138 when I fertilize, an Fe chelate for high pH applications, I normally see more green in the rosettes than one might be used to seeing, unless I remember to prepare a bit of solution w/o the chelate for them and other red/maroon plants. Foliage-Pro 9-3-6 is my 'go-to' fertilizer for more than 95% of what I grow in containers. Al...See MoreKara 9b SF Bay Area CA
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agomariec_6a
7 years agomariec_6a
7 years agoCrenda 10A SW FL
7 years agoSteven Claggett
7 years agorina_Ontario,Canada 5a
7 years agoCrenda 10A SW FL
7 years agoSteven Claggett
7 years ago
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