Hi - you asked the wrong question :-). It's not about when to prune, but when to repot, and that would be in March, though depending on how lucky you get (being so late) junipers are known to be repottable later than other trees. Care sheets are literally worse than useless as they are as likely to apply to some tropical plant living indoors as your very-outdoor juniper! It's best to repot (& root prune), branch prune, and wire at different times, because it's less stressful to the trees. Branch pruning or chopping is best in late fall or winter, but cutting twigs to neaten foliage can be done anytime really. Even in Fla. trees have seasons and now is not the time to repot or prune major branches.

NO plant likes root congestion. There are times when root congestion might serve the grower because it has an effect on the plant the grower likes, but that isn't a clear indicator the plant will like it. Tight roots cause stress and all sorts of physiological problems for all plants. It reduces growth, branch extension, and leaf size. It limits vitality and caused the shedding of older leaves proximal (closer to the trunk) to growing branch tips (apices). If anyone tells you that a particular plant prefers to be root bound w/o explaining what they really mean is some growers like to maintain a particular plant in root bound conditions, they're wrong. If "some plants" really did prefer root bound conditions, Mother Nature would surely have arranged the plant's genetics so it grew tight little masses of roots right under the stem ..... but we know there are no plants that naturally occur that way. That said, your plant probably isn't in any immediate danger that pertains to root congestion. You're better to suffer the limitations the plant is now growing under for a while in exchange for a more opportune time to repot, which for you would be next June. Plants have natural rhythms, during which their energy levels wax and wane. For major work, like repotting (which includes root pruning), it's best to ask the plant to endure the added stress of repotting or rejuvenation pruning when its energy levels are at peak - not now when they are at or approaching their lowest levels of the entire growth cycle. If you haven't read it, the link below should be very helpful. If you are wondering about repotting and how to maintain trees in containers for the long haul, this link offers lots of guidance. Al Here is a link that might be useful: Lots more info

Sounds like your trees can use a root pruning session....but, do it next spring, before bud-break, just as the dormancy period ends. It's not too difficult but it is messy. Lift the trees out of the original, 20-gallon containers, and mix up a new batch of potting medium, then start trimming the roots. I'd prune back all dead roots and then trim/reduce the root ball by about 1/3. Wash away most of the older, depleted, growing medium, and replant your trees into the original containers, working in the new growing mixture around the trimmed root ball. Water the trees to settle the medium around the roots. At the same time, I would also trim back/prune away any unwanted, or, overly long branches, twigs, etc. Prune your trees back to the size and shape that you want. Stake the newly potted trees if it's necessary. As buds start to break, and unfurl, I'd give the trees a very dilute shot of your favorite "tonic" or fertilizer. Trees should be rejuvenated for the 2015 growing season, although I would try to limit the size of the fig crop by nipping back all new growth to 6-8 leaves. Pinching out the terminal buds after the first 6-8 leaves will also limit the length of the new branches, and keep your trees within bounds. Good luck with your trees. Frank

And follow the standard rules. if your plant is in a medium that is different from what it's to going into remove it all and only use the stuff in the new pot, or ground. No matter how much better the soil on the roots is the tree would rather have the crappy soil so all of the roots are in the same stuff. Google bath tub effect for more information. You can use the soil that was in the roots to top dress. Do not amend the dug up soil. Unless your willing to dig very deep and amend every single inch of soil that the tree will eventually use. All the way to the max drip line. Even then you will have to be aware of the rain and watering so you don't get the bath tub effect. Well worth it if you live where it's dry and have poor quality soil. If your interested in this please post a new thread here for advice first so we can help you not make mistakes. I really want to help people do this as I'm confident if done right will be a significant boost to the tree. More than any fertilizer or watering program. Much more. It's an extreme amount of work you want to get right the first time. Leave the soil as is no matter how crappy if you don't want to amend it ALL as deep and wide as your plant wants and top dress once it's planted. Much easier and the worms will eventually mix it for you. Always have the roots point out into the new soil. Cut off all circling roots. Water well when establishing but don't go crazy. Create a ring around the tree made of dirt to make sure the water goes down and not out those first few weeks. The ring will disappear on its own. If it's hot and sunny, shade the tree until it's established. Try not to leave fruit on it while transplanting. It's just not worth stressing the tree while it established itself in its new home if it's going into the ground. If it's potted the tree will not be as stressed and can support fruit if big enough. if I think of anything else I'll add it to the list.