Refinishing Maple Table Top
Tish
7 years ago
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7 years agoRelated Discussions
Best way to refinish this table damaged table top?
Comments (3)I use these (professionally) and have never had a problem removing a water blush in just a few minutes. You can also usually find them at Ace Hardware, Lowe's and Bed, Bath & Beyond in their cleaning / furniture care product aisle. In my experience, rarely would you need to strip and refinish unless the finish is blistered and peeling off (I can't tell from the photo) Likewise, you may need to buff out the whole top to even the sheen. The cloth will also remove light scuffing. Clean up the residual oil with an emulsion furniture polish Here is a link that might be useful: water ring removal cloth...See MoreRefinish table top or find new 'old' one?
Comments (15)OOh, Allison, my table top looks almost identical to your "before" pic so you have given me hope! Thanks. Now, they made me a NEW "old" table. They did NOT use the maple top. Maple does not take stain very well and wouldn't get as dark as I wanted. busybee3, the places in the close up that look like "burn marks" are the gouges. They stained darker than the top of the wood. I don't remember what they used to seal, but it made a stink for a few days after. It was not a shiny finish - matte. I never use shiny. Our hardwood floors were finished with tung oil because I wanted no shine whatsoever. My island (antique pine) was finished with Good Stuff For Wood. Not sure why they didn't use it on the table too. I will take a better picture of the top, but I'm running late so I cant do it now....See MoreTalk me through DIY wood island top decisions
Comments (24)THi Daisychain01, I can give you an update. Thanks for asking. The kitchen is not quite ready for a full reveal yet, but our counter is up and running, and has been for about 9 months now. We did go with Odie’s Oil. DH did 3 coats, if we’re remembering right. It’s holding up pretty well, but the hardest used areas look ready for a refresh already. There was some odor when we did it, more than I expected, honestly, but it was tolerable. I’ll put up some pictures so you can see what nine months of constant use looks like. Water still beads on the surface, but read on. We definitely need to attend to the area around the sink (btw, I am SO happy with our round prep sink in the corner!), but keep in mind, it’s almost always in use. The spot where the soap dispenser is looking worse for wear, as is the end grain edge under the faucet, just above the lip of the sink. The spots where we prep meals with cutting boards a scraped up some, too. We cut only on cutting boards, and we put hot pads down when setting hot stuff on the counter. Other than that, we don’t baby this counter. There is one spot where my kids did some stained glass painting with a kit from Dollar Tree, and some of the paint bled through the scrap paper they had put under their work. Of all things, that silly pink paint stained the finish. As time goes by, it‘s tend to the point it’s hardly noticeable. (Unless I pointed it out, you probably wouldn’t see it.) Since you’ve got some time before you do your cottage counters, maybe you could oil a piece of scrap wood with the Watco oil and keep it by your sink on a little platter. Get it wet frequently, and see how it holds up. I wish you the best!...See MoreRefinishing a vintage parquet-topped table?
Comments (1)All the finish would have to be removed before stain will work. Staining alternate squares will be almost Impossible since the squares not to be stained have to be covered, And there is the probability of stain bleed even then. Because the stain will creep into wood covered by tape, since stain is much more fluid than paint. You could paint by hand or tape off alternate squares and spray---after priming and hope the priper sticks to the surfaces and the tape does not pull up primer and paint....See MoreTish
7 years agoUser
7 years agoAnnKH
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7 years agoTish
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6 years agoAnnKH
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6 years agoDebbie Downer
6 years ago
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