Area shutting down due to weather headed this way.
glenda_al
7 years ago
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Decided to shut it down for the first time this year
Comments (11)Toofast, I'm over to the other side of London,Ontario, so not so far from you and our winters are much the same. I don't run the main pumps over winter, I'm wary of ice dams being created and water being diverted away from the pond. I shut the waterfall and statuary pumps off for the winter, but, because of where my bottom drain sump is located,I run a small 500 GPH pump all winter to circulate the pond water and create a vent opening in the ice. The 500 GPH pump is located in the 50 gallon bottom drain sump, and pumps water through a 1/2" hose to the pond, where it keeps the surface water moving and allows for gas exchange. I have a 1200 watt deicer as a stand by in case of pump failure. I also totally cover my ponds over, first with a leaf net for a month or so, then with a translucent tarpaulin supported on a frame, for the winter months. That keeps the cold winds from blowing across the water surface. Your plan to use an aerator and a small deicer, with your large wattage deicer as a stand-by sounds great to me. As far as keeping your pump in a bucket of water, there is no need to do that, as mag pumps,unlike oil filled pumps do not have seals that will crack, if they are allowed to dry up over winter. But that is up to you. March would be a tad too early for start up,I should think. I push the envelope a bit by getting going at the beginning of April. And that is dependent on weather conditions. The main clean out the pond, I do in the Fall, rather than in the Spring. That way I'm not stirring up the "nasties" from the bottom of the pond, when the fish are still very susceptible to disease after going through a hard winter. You mention a check valve "sticking out of the water". As long as it is not filled with water, that could freeze and cause the valve to split open, it should be okay. If you could remove it and take it apart for cleaning and then store it, that would be a safer solution. Check valves should be cleaned out at least once a year, as the are a real collector of gunk and that can cause them to stick open or closed. The same goes for your pump. Take the impeller cover off and clean it out before storing for winter, whether it is kept in water or not. The gunk inside the pump can [and will] set up like cement over winter and cause the pump to overheat and possibly burn out when you try to use it next Spring. Hope this helps. "Horton"...See Morechainsaw starts then after few cuts shuts down
Comments (44)I have a Poulan Pro PP5020AV that wouldn't stay running, similar to the problems described above. The saw is less than two years old. Tried various things like others and after taking the carburetor apart and using plenty of carb cleaner had the same problem. Got it to run briefly by shooting some carb cleaner into the intake. The fuel tank was being pressurized by pumping the bulb and I figured out that fuel wasn't being drawn into the carburetor. Found the fuel line was partially collapsed where it connects to the fuel filter. Looked like someone forced it on and damaged the fuel line in the process. Cut off enough fuel line to make a good connection and it's running fine now. One more issue to consider....See MoreShut-off Valve at Each Irrigation Head?
Comments (6)Here's my plan - all the parts. I will use a 12" riser because 1) the heads were buried pretty deep and, 2) I need the new shut-off valve to end up above ground: Here's a closeup of the bottom connection. The tee at the supply line is a 3/4" male connection: Here's a closeup of the shut-off valve connection. Shut-off valves are $3.17 each at Lowes. What a bargain!: Will this work like I hope? Thanks! Carol This post was edited by love_the_yard on Thu, May 2, 13 at 14:07...See MorePG&E power shut down
Comments (16)Annie, overhead power lines for long distance transmission can be close to 700,000 volts or higher. At this voltage, wires don't need to touch, a spark can jump over a big (23 cm?) air gap, If buried underground, everything must be 100% leak-proof and ultra insulated. 99.999 % is not acceptable. A tiniest pinhole can create an underground explosion. Also, because the power is alternating current (A/C) it can induce (as in induction cook tops) electric current in metal objects nearby. So metal conduits can be a problem. I can't imagine any way to bury this kind of power in mountain and forest areas for over 60000 miles of wire.. Many other areas near population will be a problem because of people's concern about magnetic field possibly causing cancer. So you will have 10 years to deal with "not in my backyard" law suits. Another 20 years for Environmental Impact Statements. 10 years for engineering? 20 years for construction? It takes hours to repair failed overhead power lines. It can take more than months to repair underground ultra high voltage transmission facilities. Not even going to compare costs, it takes a few months to add more power to overhead transmission system. It will take forever for an underground system to add capacity. --------------------------- I am surprised that the following has not been considered now that forest fire has become a worldwide problem: 1. Satellite IR sensor can easily be an added feature to GPS satellites to pinpoint fire the very second it occurs and allowing aerial fire fighting to take place in minutes. 2. Pre-mapped by GPS, access and escape paths based on contour and field conditions survey in all effected areas to allow safe and quick firefighting. 3. Fully insulated auto-pilot controlled rescue vehicles, with builtin air and medical supplies to get deep inside a fire and stay for at least 10 hours. May be modified surplus army tanks? 4. New building Code for buildings in fire areas. dcarch...See Morenicole___
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