days to harvest / maturity?
Rad Gard
7 years ago
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LoneJack Zn 6a, KC
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoKansas Farm Girl - Shell - South of KC
7 years agoRelated Discussions
Minnesota Midget Melon etc. days to maturity
Comments (4)Thanks, guys! Last summer was pretty normal- hot, not too dry until August, but not wet before then either. So I doubt I will get better melon-growing weather this year. My Mom had a theory that maybe the difference in DTM was due to the seedhouse being so far North (longer days) and I am a bit further south than Maine... the seedhouse with the same DTM as I experienced is in New Mexico, so maybe she's on to something? Anyhow, maybe I can get a variety I like the sound of and start them inside (I love my new seedling starting setup!!!) in May. Would a 4 inch pot be big enough for a melon plant to live in for its first month of life, do you think? Cheers! Sunni...See MoreAdding to, Days-to-maturity
Comments (6)I second the "there are way too many factors" to be able to determine how many days until harvest. Further, with "tenders," there are some varieties that are more adapted to colder nighttime temps, I think that those are the "early" versions, in tomato-speak? I have one variety this year that is supposedly 50 days, so we'll see. Of course, I have one variety of seed in my stash (I've never planted it) that is supposed to be so reliably self-polinating, and able to tolerate much cooler temps that it's supposed to be able to bloom and set fruit before you even see the bees. I can't remember what it is called offhand (maybe an "Arctic" variety?), but I do remember that what research I was able to do indicated the flavor wasn't worth the plant taking up a spot in my garden. All I know is when the first 'mater comes, it happens, and I can't wait to sink my teeth into something better than the pink mealy things that I occasionally break down and have in the wintertime. I'm in the beggining to harden off phase with my seedlings now, and my babies braved the cool last night--I think it got down to 57, which was warmer than the predicted 50. Do you think 3 degrees would make a difference, had they been planted out? This is where the debate really gets silly (considering the "all other things are never equal" angle), does 59 matter? what about 58, 57? 55? When does that extra degree REALLY make the first harvest later? Ultimately, I use the "days to maturity" as a guide to try and figure out which tomatoes will be likely coming earlier and which will be later in the grand scheme that is my garden. And I take it kind of like I take the weather forecast: besides baseball batting averages, the only folks that can be wrong SO often and still keep a job are those that predict the weather--and when I'll get my first tomato!...See Moredays to maturity???
Comments (11)Yes, Albert, that was my point. If you want to get to harvest fast, get a plant that has a smaller DTM. That is, a longer DTM plant planted next to a shorter DTM plant wlll probably take longer to produce. But if you want tomatoes on July 15, and you have a plant with a DTM of 90 days, planting on April 15 may or may not do it for you. Given variability of weather, climate, and planting dates, as well as soil nutrients, you decide when to harvest by looking at the stuff and seeing if it is ready to harvest. Not by when the calendar and the DTM tells you it is ready to harvest. So calendar-wise, DTM is indeed a pretty useless bit of information....See MoreWhat should you harvest before maturing?
Comments (9)A better phrasing might be what is better left to mature rather than be eaten immature? Winter squashes should be allowed to reach full maturity. That's when they also do their tougher skins and such that makes them better for storage than tender summer squashes that are often tastiest when eaten immature. Dry beans or plants like sunflowers and eating-seed pumpkins should be allowed to fully mature. You are wanting the fully mature seed production there. Many peppers that are often utilized green are also great to use fully mature. A great many of them turn from green to other colors. An example is jalapeños- most often eaten green, but are also tasty when red and mature. The sugars kick up and the raw heat mellow a bit. Chipotle peppers are fully red mature jalapeños that get smoke dried. Garlic, shallots, and onions might also count for fully mature- as in with the bulbs/heads. Other than that, most other veggies are better picked immature. Tomatoes when they are blushing rather than fully ripe on the vine. Greens, brassicas, and a lot of roots. Green beans and peas. Cukes, melons. A bunch of stuff is cut and come again, and part of the point is keeping it trimmed/picked/pruned. Greens and lettuce, chives, onion and garlic greens till the bulbs are spent. Many herbs....See MoreRad Gard
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agodigdirt2
7 years agotheforgottenone1013 (SE MI zone 5b/6a)
7 years agoSeysonn_ 8a-NC/HZ-7
7 years agoRad Gard
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agogorbelly
7 years agodigdirt2
7 years agoKansas Farm Girl - Shell - South of KC
7 years agoBarrie, (Central PA, zone 6a)
7 years ago
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