Is she an inside/outside cat? Letting the cat outside might make her less stressed. Our 5 year old spayed cat also started marking and had aggression issues. Not with us, but she would attack windows whenever she'd see any other animal outside. Didn't matter if the animal noticed her or not, she would go crazy and run from room to room pounding on windows and guarding her turf. She also hoarded food. All of this stopped (well mostly, I can't tell you about 100% of her pee habits since I can't watch her now) when we put her outside. She gets along with other animals, even tolerates them eating from her bowl. She doesn't shy away from strangers anymore, where before she would practically piss herself if anyone came in the house. Some cats seem suited to indoor life, but others just become neurotic. If you're not totally comfortable putting her outside, you can try walking her daily on a leash. I've heard of this working for a lot of cats with territory issues, plus it helps them burn off pent up energy and mellow them out. If you can't handle her well, you need to get her most favorite food (boiled chicken works for mine) and feed her that anytime she even sees the leash. Eventually, progress to putting it on her. If she won't take the food, it's either not good enough or she's too stressed to learn. You can go slower or try to push through it. With mine, she was extremely skittish about the process. She'd take food inside while on the leash but I could not lure her outside. Eventually I put her outside anyway. She would sit and meow for a long while, but as soon as she settled down I'd bring her in. That was her reward instead of food. After about 2 weeks, she looked forward to going outside and no longer cried to go back in. Don't drag her around on the leash or force her to walk though, you want it to be as positive an experience as possible.

He's as distressed in his new environment as he'd be if placed in a shelter. But in your quiet home he'll eventually adjust where in a shelter...who knows what would happen. He's also grieving for his companion-your FIL was probably this cat's whole life. Displaced aggression could be from the sudden change in his circumstances plus the meeting with your house pets. He doesn't know what to do about any of this and needs a while to sort it out. Is there any chance you can shut yourself in with him for an hour or so once or twice daily? Several visits per day are more unsettling than a few long sits. Take a book to while away the time and just sit quietly. He'll approach when he's ready. I've read many testimonials to the efficacy of Feliway diffusers. They're far from cheap but all the testimony can't be discounted. Feliway is a synthetic feline pheromone like that left behind when cats cheek-rub stuff. It's supposed to be a signal that all is well. Your other cat should also respond well to the Feliway. You can ask the vet about a course of antidepressants. This doesn't have to be a forever thing but it will take the edge off of Moochie's grief and despair while you teach him that he's loved and welcome in your home. I've introduced many cats over the years, and find that it takes as long as a year for the ruffled feathers to settle down. It's a long frustrating experience but under your guidance all the house pets can benefit.

We are approaching our 6 month anniversary and I wanted to update interested parties (and those looking for answers to their own issues) on our progress. Suffice to say, the progress is slow. So slow it's hard to see it. That being said, even teeny tiny steps give me hope that one of these days we will have at least a tolerant, if not friendly, household. We have tried the following over the counter (non-Rx) fixes: rescue remedy, GNC Calming Treats, Feliway Calming Collar, Composure calming treats, harness/leash, crate introductions, Feliway diffusers. We have also had my girl on the following Rx meds (pardon the spelling): Clomicalm, Armitryptilan, Prozac. Nothing has been a life saver. We are currently using (and having the best success so far) the following combo: Rescue Remedy applied to the ears off all cats about 15 minutes before allowing in the shared space. Feliway plug--in diffusers in all main living areas (3 for us), GNC Calming treats once per day for all cats, Armitryptilan (5mg, once a day for my aggressive cat). While we are at work, we keep all the cats seperated. (They are all girls). We have 3 cats, two that get along ok, one (mine) that does not. When we come home from work we open all the doors and allow Molly (mine, the most aggressive one) to come out at her leisure. We keep an eye out, and if the other two are around we start talking to them reassuringly and encouraging Molly to be nice. This may help us more than them, but I also think it helps everyone stay calm. If Molly displays signs of stress (stiffening body, raised tail), we try to intervene before it goes into an attack. If I get up or speak sharply to her she will usually turn and head back into 'her room'. This isn't ideal, but it has helped prevent the full attacks she was waging on the other girls. If she does attack one of the cats, we use a spray bottle to break it up, which generally causes her to run back to her room also. We close the door of her room while she calms down (about 10-15 minutes), and then open the door up again and let her decide when she wants to come back out. This is a tiring, time consuming project. BUT, there have been some marginal improvements. Bella, the older, larger of the two 'resident' cats and Molly seem to have called somewhat of a truce. They clearly are not friends, but they don't hiss and growl too much any more. I think this is in large part because Bella is not a territorial cat by nature and does not challenge Molly, and also because they are evenly matched in size. Our 3rd and youngest, Sophie, is a tiny cat and also very skittish. My husband found her in the street when she was just a couple of weeks old and nursed her through some scary times. She trusts him implicitly but is very skittish with all other situations and people. Because she has been attacked by Molly so frequently, she runs the minute she sees her. This often triggers Molly to chase her which is not good. This has been our biggest trial. If Sophie does not run (sometimes she does not realize that Molly has come in the room) Molly will stare but not attack. We feel that if we can keep them both calm in the same room they may get used to each other in time but so far that has not been possible. We have just restarted Molly on the Armitryptalin. After going all the way thru the available meds ending in Prozac without good results we had taken her off everything a while ago. Now that we have made some improvements and Molly is becoming more confortable in the house over all we decided to try it again to see if it will help. As always, ideas or suggestions are welcome. :) Molly's health is good, as are the other two cats.

Try to make note of when and where it happens. Time of day, circumstances, physical properties of the space where they blow up, anything can be helpful to your trainer. With my Casey, he initially went after Bina mostly in tight spaces. Later, he was usually guarding the room and did not want her to enter the family room or the space around me. Once you figure it out, you can watch for it and distract the dog before it happens. We used to yell with lots of Whoop! Whoop! loud noises to startle Casey out of his fixated trance, then get his attention on us, not Bina. But Casey had a brain tumor and we were fighting against whatever damage it was doing to his brain. Your situation may be completely different, so that is why you need an expert to help you figure out what is happening. We finally decided not to leave any chew toys out at all, since Casey could decide to guard them at any time, for instance. Things changed over the course of the three years he had his tumor. Toward the end, he could not follow his training and control his impulses. He was all ID, a psychologist would say. If he wanted to know what was on the counter, he jumped up and looked. If he wanted to eat something on a counter, he jumped up and took it. We had gates everywhere and had to be perfect about using them and leaving things in his reach. I have known others who had two dogs who were incompatible and could not be together. They managed the gates in their home to keep the dogs apart. They also arranged their lives to spend time in the spaces of both dogs, so neither was neglected. It can be done, but it is difficult! First, save your money, and find that trainer to come to your house and work with the dogs and figure out what the problem is.