It's my first time gardening, and I have some questions.
yocona75
7 years ago
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My first year with Clematis, I have some questions
Comments (4)In my zone 7a garden, I trim all my type III and sometimes my type II clematis back in late December. Some people wait until late winter or early spring to do so. Any time after the plants have gone dormant and aren't likely to be reawakened into growth by pruning is fine for your pruning. You didn't say what clematis types you have but since they were just planted this year, all types that you planted should be trimmed back in winter to early spring to within 4 or so inches of the ground. I have used various things for mulching my clematis including grass clippings, homemade compost if it is available, pine needles, and various types of wood mulch. I have mulch around my clematis year round as it helps maintain constant soil moisture and soil temperature during all seasons. It also decomposes and adds tilth to the soil and draws earthworms to the area and they in turn will deposit their castings as fertilizer for your clematis. Unless you live in climate where clematis don't go dormant or won't go dormant until late in the winter, you should not be fertilizing clematis at this time of year. Hope that helps....See MoreHave some questions about starting my garden
Comments (4)Lets see.... I don't think I'd bother putting chicken wire down underneath all the manure, it would rust out within a few months. You might need it around the sides, above the timbers, as rabbits can easily jump 16". As far as what you you use to fill the beds, you'll probably want to add *some* soil as you go along, but I've grown great gardens in 90% compost, and the best garden I ever had was nothing but a foot deep rotted horse manure from the neighbors stables, and they scraped up some of the underlying soil when they loaded the truck. The draw back with a very high percentage of organic matter is that it goes away pretty quickly. So I'd say layer out your cardboard and stuff, spread out all the horse manure you can get, and maybe spring for yard or two of top soil. At some point, what ever soil that is underneath your bed is going to get fluffed up by worms and mixed into the rest of what you put down. Good luck. You still have plenty of time to get everything ready....See MoreSome questions about my first fall square foot garden
Comments (5)I never tried "pure Mel's mix". I merely incorporated vermiculite, peat and extra compost into my existing soil. (After all, I'd spent the previous 5 years of gardening amending my clay soil...I didn't want all the previous effort to go to waste, besides, I had finally gotten my mix to the level I was almost happy with it....it was crumbly...full of worms...and wasn't as compacted as it had been.) I have had no problems with moisture retention (of course, that's probably in large part due to the level of clay content) even when I don't water quite as often as I should (life can get down right ridiculous sometimes!). My garden takes only a small step back, but bounces right back when I water, or a big storm comes through. advaya, Your plant choices look perfect. Some others to consider: Parsnips and rutabagas...all root crops do well in the fall garden. Also, they tend to be sweeter after they are nipped by a hard frost. The starches turn to sugars so that they can survive the winter! Personally, I don't even harvest them until I am going to eat them. I just mulch over the top, and if a really cold snap hits....wait for it to thaw out. They are great!...See MoreSome questions about my first garden.
Comments (10)If I were you, I would take each plant and give it a 1 by 1 foot area. I'd only recommend that if you are pruning heavily. Usually it is a good idea to plant tomatoes 3-4 feet apart in rows 4-6 feet apart. Trust me, I have done the 3 feet apart indeterminates in rows 4 feet apart, and that was too close! Tomatoes tend to be friendly critters and will want to hold hands. Which means you are going to have a tough time getting to the fruits on the plants/rows in the center. Watering is very important. Too little and the plants don't do well. Too much and the flavor is weak. Invest in a water meter or use the dowel method: GardenWebber sprouts_honor (Jennifer from Cleveland) had a wonderful suggestion on how to tell whether or not you need to water your tomatoes, and I quote here: "Get a wooden dowel rod (or two) and sink it in the ground near a plant or two and leave it. Pull it out when you think you need to water. If the top is dry and the bottom is a little damp, it's time to water. If it looks dark and feels saturated, wait to water. I use this technique with potted plants that don't like being over watered and it's helpful with in ground plants too." As a general rule, tomatoes need an inch of water every week. An inch of rain is exactly that, water that is one inch deep. One inch of rainfall equals 4.7 gallons of water per square yard. Cool weather needs will be less, hot weather more. Dig down with your finger about 4", is the soil wet, dry, or just right? If it is wet, don't water, if dry then water. If it is just right, check again the next day. Water deeply once or twice a week. Watering daily encourages shallow roots which means the plant is affected more by variations in soil moisture. In my garden during the heat of the summer, I water deeply every 4-5 days, early spring I may only water every 8-9 days and when the weather is moderatly warm (70-80ð), about once a week. Mulching heavily (to a depth of 6 - 8 inches) with compost, straw, hay, rotted leaves, grass clippings, even shredded or sheets of paper and cardboard helps maintain a consistent moisture level. I could probably say more, but that is a good start along with what most of the others had to say. Betsy...See Moreyocona75
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agodigdirt2
7 years agolucillle
7 years ago
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