Help with white and gray paint for cabinets- Pratt & Lambert
I'm building a new house and just found out that my cabinet maker uses Pratt and Lambert paints (not SW, like I had thought). I'm now scrambling to come up with paint colors for my cabinets. The kitchen walls will be painted SW Silver Strand, so I need colors that will work well with it. I've attached a picture of our island...it's whites, creams, and grays. I've picked out a white crackle subway tile backsplash.
I'm looking for a soft white for the perimeter cabinets....nothing stark, but also not too creamy. The island will be gray. I don't want anything too dark (thinking a light to mid gray). Am I right to think I need something with greenish undertones to go with Silver Strand? We've used Silver Strand in our last house, and it's quite the chameleon- grey, green, blue depending on the time of day.
If anyone has any suggestions for Pratt and Lambert colors that might work, I'd be so thankful!
Comments (13)
PROLori A. Sawaya
7 years agolast modified: 7 years ago
cbeth85
7 years agoRelated Discussions
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Comments (15)wryorwhite -- Don't be scared by all this talk of yellowing. It's exaggerated. Bear in mind that oil-based paint was essentially all that was used in American homes through the 1980s -- so unless you're a teenager, you were around when any house you'd walk into (including the one in which you grew up) had its walls painted with oil-based paint. Trust yourself and your own experience...do you ever remember walking into a house and thinking to yourself "My, these walls are awfully yellowed!"? I sure don't. When's the last time you've heard someone say "Oh, look at those walls! They've gone from looking like snow to looking like Big Bird! This is certainly oil-based paint!"? Never. Yes, oil-based paint yellows very slighly with time. So do all oil-based products, including the clear polyurethane with which wood floors are most often finished. This "yellowing" effect is minimal, and it's not something that jumps out at you or is offensive or anything like that. You have to actively look for it, and the only people who do that are (a) homosexuals, and (b) people who work in the marketing departments of latex-based paint companies. The drawbacks of latex-based paint have largely been resolved in the past few years. The latex-based paints of 2008 are a far cry from the ones of 20 years ago. This is especially true with the high-quality brands like Pratt & Lambert. Modern high-end latex pains bond to drywall well, hold up to moisture and cleaning well, etc. However - latex-based paints aren't as good as oil-based paints when it comes to moisture and dirt resistance, standing up to scrubbing, and bonding to wood. They never can be, because oil (unlike latex) naturally resists water, and naturally soaks into wood (rather than just sitting on top like a skin). Think of what happens when you mix oil and water -- they don't mix; instead, they just separate and keep apart. So moisture and dirt don't bond to the oil-based paint, so it's very easy to clean without damage. In addition, oil-based paint soaks into wood -- unlike latex-based paint, which forms into a skin that you can peel off. This is one of the big drawbacks of using latex paint on high-traffic wood items (like kitchen cabinets). My house has latex-based paint on the walls and ceilings, and oil-based paint on all the wood trim (including the doors and windows and cabinets) -- this is a time-tested and popular arrangement, and it has held up very well for me and my neighbors. Speaking of polyurethane -- there are two types, oil-based and water-based (latex-based) - same as paint. ALL of the manufacturers -- Minwax, Cabot, etc. -- recommend strongly in favor of using the oil-based polyurethane on floors. It's tougher, it holds up better to traffic and moisture, and this "yellowing" effect that the self-proclaimed experts yammer on about are so minimal as to be non-existent. The same is true with the oil-based vs. water-based (latex-based) paints. Again, trust yourself and your own experiences -- how many times have you walked into a home and thought to yourself that the painted walls and ceilings, or the wood floors, were yellowed?...See More- PRO
Lori A. Sawaya
7 years agoIf you are limited to Pratt & Lambert colors, then you have a limited range of whites. Which isn't a bad thing. Keeps it simple.
I think there are two whites from P&L that would work based on the granite alone. Designer White and Pro White. Designer White is brighter and has more chroma, it's more colorful. Pro White is a snidge darker and is more grayed.
The overall difference between the two is really, really tiny but the factor of grayness is where you'll see it. The spectral data (the color's DNA or fingerprints) illustrates just how close they are. Designer White has stronger hits - just barely - of greeness and yellowness which explains why it has more chroma, is more colorful.
Any suggestions for good grays to consider?The right gray is in the granite. Use the granite to inform your choice of gray paint color(s). Get chips and find a few that match the granite. Looks like there are several shades (levels of lightness/darkness) to choose from in the granite so you should be able to find a gray that's as light/dark as you want.
cbeth85
7 years ago- PRO
Lori A. Sawaya
7 years agoOff-white. Seed Pearl does have a bit more yellowness and it's also more grayed and not as bright.
Heather P
2 years agolast modified: 2 years ago@Lori A. Sawaya do you have a recommendation of a Pratt & Lambert color that would be close to Benjamin Moore Simply White? My cabinet maker uses conversion varnish and I'm stuck with the Pratt and Lambert colors. My countertops will be Taj Mahal and I love simply white with the counters. I've included a picture of the slab. Thank you for any ideas you may have for me!!
Heather P
2 years agolast modified: 2 years ago- PRO
Lori A. Sawaya
2 years ago Heather P
2 years ago- PRO
Lori A. Sawaya
2 years ago Heather P
2 years ago- PRO
Lori A. Sawaya
2 years ago
Lori A. Sawaya