Give us a little more information please.

Will you have access to all sides of the 3 beds for harvest?

What area of the country to you live in? That would help us better answer your questions.

Do you plan to plant any new vegetables in late summer for fall harvest in the areas that will be vacant. For instance, your lettuce, spinach, and broccoli are all cool season veggies and will be done by June (BTW they should be planted already by now in most 7b areas).

Crop rotation is really not practical with limited space so I wouldn't stress on that.

thanks!!

I'm in zone 7b - Mid Atlantic - Eastern Shore of Maryland - couple miles from the beach.

I will have access to all sides of my beds.

My collards and broccoli are already planted, but the spinach and lettuce was just sowed yesterday! Maybe I should just till that soil back and replace the space with something else... But what?

I'll look into the broccoli and carrots root systems. Never thought of that!
I'm not so concerned if the lettuce and spinach don't make it this season. I'll definitely have cold frames for them this fall and will have plenty of time over winter to focus on leafy greens!

I really just want tomatoes and peppers to thrive!
Maybe I'll put hot peppers where the lettuces are?

Thanks again!

Collards, Broccoli ,Spinach Lettuce and I think carrots are cool weather crops where tomatoes and bell peppers are warm weather . Cucumbers are usually warm weather crops as well but I find if they get too much sun or and too much heat they do not do well but I think it depends on how hot it gets where you are.

I take your measurements are in feet? 3x6 is 3 feet by 6 feet? So you are giving 1 square feet for each type of crop? Tomatoes more than likely will need more than 1 square foot in space.

The other thing is for me I like to group plants that have the same sort of fertilizing needs together. Fruiting crops such as tomatoes, peppers and cucumbers I like to keep together where leafy crops are in another location. It may not be necessary but I find it easier.

You have two 1x1 foot slots for "collards". Be aware that a single mature collard plant will occupy AT LEAST a 2x2 area, and stands 3 feet tall so your peppers will get heavily shaded.

right, measurements are US. So 3ftx6ft and 4ftx10ft.

I think I botched the plan for spring spinach and lettuce... I'll just keep those seeds for this fall and put something else in the place.
If cucumbers are going to do bad in full sun, maybe I put them on the 4x10 bed with the beans and put something else on the 3x6 trellis...

Dan: my collard seed pack says 3 inch spacing - I actually have 6 collard plants per 1x1 square! That was a mistake? I'm not a big collard fan anyways, maybe I'll just wipe that crop down to my best single plant and see how it goes?

I have no idea why the collard seed pack says that, though I assume it presumes heavy thinning. Collards are enormous vegetables, at least down here over winter. The stems grow to 2-3 inches in diameter. I have three plants. We eat a few large leaves (they're about a foot across) every day. They're great in many things, and are hugely nutritious, but even with that kind of harvesting, and harvesting visits from neighbors, the plants look like they've never been touched. One plant would be very adequate for two hungry people. You might keep two plants, which will fill the area as would one. That way if one plant keels over, you still have the other to fill the space. But a 1x1 foot area simply won't do it unless you religiously hack it back and never allow any of the leaves to fully mature.

I should underscore the point that was made that a one foot wide strip for trellised tomatoes is pretty narrow. Those tomatoes will get at least five feet high, and they'll need root systems to support that size plant.

Dan: Ok, so maybe I move the collard to the 4x10 bed and give it 4 squares. Then Move the peppers over one row so the tomatoes have 2 squares wide, but 16 inches between them on the trellis?
I'm learning so much as I go. One thing I'm noticing is the insane contradiction between academic sources! One book will say 12" spacing for tomatoes, another says 9 squares!
Also, I opted out of Zucchini this year as there was so much back and forth that I really had no idea what information to trust so I just didn't order them.

Ideally, I'd love most of my vegetables on trellis. I might even do spaghetti squash or cantelope on the other 3x6 bed now that I'm going to move the cucumbers and beans to the 4x10 bed.

Ideas are slowly coming together.
Keep the advice coming!
I appreciate all the help!! Cheers!

What type of material are you using for the trellis? Will you be able to reach through it to harvest the tomatoes from the north side or will you have to reach over the peppers? If the latter that may be problematic.

How about putting the tomatoes in the 4x10 bed down the middle and then you can train/tie them onto the trellis on the north side. Then you can plant something short like a couple rows of carrots along the south edge of that bed. BTW carrots should probably have been planted a few weeks ago as well. I don't often grow spring carrots. I seed my fall carrots in late July or early August and harvest in October - December. Carrots that mature in cool weather are far superior IMO. Green onions (scallions) might be a better option to plant now.

Great suggestion on the scallion substitute!
The trellis will be cattle panel, 4ga wire. 4"x8" gaps, plenty of room to reach through.

Not sure if the 4x10 beds will get enough sun for tomatoes though...
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Here's the new plan with the suggestions above.
Still a lot of space on the 4x10, and the second 3x6 got completely converted to a muskmelon bed haha, still not sure about that - it's a placeholder right now!
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That's a good point about harvestability on both sides of a trellis. But you always plant on the north side of the trellis. That way the plant phototropes towards the trellis rather than away from it. In principle, if the plant isn't tying itself to the trellis, but you're doing so, most of the plant will remain on the north side, as will most of the fruit. That's what's going on with my trellised cherries, which are getting toward 5 feet high and starting to flower.

I like version 2 of your 3x6 beds. I hope the peppers are on the south side of the bed because the tomatoes will grow much faster and be these huge plants while the peppers will be slowly coming along. I have had many pepper plants wasted because they became dwarfs in a tomato forest.

It looks like you are going to force the tomatoes to grow vertically rather than spread out. You can get more varieties in the bed that way, though you will have to aggressively prune and have a way to support 7 foot plants.

Another way to go would be to use determinant varieties that would live more peaceably with their bed-mates and be less work.

I think your 4x10 beds should be fine for tomatoes. They might grow a bit slower, but especially as they get big they will be in a position to take advantage of all available light. Maybe the bigger issue would be what would they be shading as they get big?

For your herbs - think of what you like to cook with. I always need lots of basil and will have several different kinds. You might consider marjoram as an addition that you can use instead of oregano when you prefer something a bit sweeter and milder.

I've heard the Matt's Wild Cherry Tomatoes grow like wildfire, so I'm thinking of moving these to the 4x10 bed and giving more breathing room to the other 3 tomatoes in the other bed.
The 3x6 beds will actually run slightly NNE to SSW, with the trellis running the long end NNE to SSW. The tomatoes are on the East side and peppers on the West side.

I think the peppers will benefit more from the afternoon sun, and they (hopefully) shouldn't be shadowed by the tomatoes...

I might actually hang a 6ft plank on the bed after work to mimic the tomatoes and see what it shades...

Never seen a cherry tomato that didn't grow like wildfire.

Your trellises are almost north-south? Well, for a narrow bed, the other side of the bed is going to get pretty much half sun, unless you're equatorial. It's that simple. At noon on June 21, a six foot trellis will be casting a two and a half foot shadow on the ground to the north if you're at 45 degrees latitude. Shadows just get longer as it gets earlier and later in the day and in the year. Of course, if your other plants have some height, that will help.

No sweat. It's not optimal, but it'll work. My beds run NS. I have two tall EW trellises at the north end, which is where my cherries go in the summer. They don't shade anyone. I have a smaller trellis at the south end, and I put on that plants whose foliage isn't terribly dense. I'll have malabar spinach there this summer. Just to the north of that trellis I put leafy greens that really don't want a lot of direct sun.

It's just important for new gardeners laying out plots to think about where the sun is going to be, and what plants need direct sunlight the most.