I agree with m1shmosh. This isn't intended as a slight at anyone. But I think the biggest weakness on this board is correct weed identification. I don't know all the weeds. But I know Poa annua when I see it. That first one is Poa Annua. I've no idea on the 2nd picture. For what it is worth, one of the easiest ways to ID Annual Rye (AKA Italian Rye) is it tends to have a purplish red color at the base of the plant. Identifying Characteristics: The auricles that occur in the collar regions distinguishes this grass from other similar weeds, as relatively few grass weeds have this feature. Additionally, the red-tinged base of annual ryegrass helps to distinguish this weed from perennial ryegrass (Lolium perenne), which is very similar in growth habit and appearance. This url provides more information on Annual Rye.

Three down, one to go......I asked for help from a local gardening group and was able to get all but one of my "unknown" weeds identified. Number #2 has been sucessfully identfied as GARLIC MUSTARD Number #3 is PRICKLY LETTUCE (thanks jean001) Number #4 isnt even a weed....its a BLACK LOCUST TREE

Black Medic, a member of the clover (legume) family that grows best in compacted soils with low levels of organic matter. Short term controls are spraying with plant poisons while long term control is achieved by correcting the soil conditions that it likes to grow in. Start with a soil test for soil pH and major nutrient levels and then dig in with these simple soil tests to see what else needs be done. 1) Soil test for organic material. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains’ too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell, to a point. Too much organic matter can be bad as well. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy.

" I believe cedar shingles only come in one color and that is how they look when they age. " False. Cedar shingles come in several different species of cedar, cuts and various "factory" finishes or could be finished with almost anything in the field. Most likely it is a Cedar Shingle siding and roof and the vertical a T&G, possible center matched as opposed to a vee-joint. Look at 18" Western Red Cedar Perfections. The roof looks natural to me but the siding definitely has had some sort of finish/stain applied to it.