Do I Need a Grow Light?
7 years ago
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Seedlings not doing well!
Comments (4)Hi ~ I would move them to full shade for awhile, maybe they are getting too hot, remember even in the shade there is light but the temp is much cooler. Hold off on the fertilizer, I don't usually feed mine until they are in the ground. Also, I wouldn't let them dry out even slightly, if they are draining well, I would keep them watered at all times. the root system is so very tiny right now and they need consistant watering until they are again, in the ground and established to the soil, light requirements they desire....See Morelighting
Comments (2)In my experience, fluorescent is adequate if you can keep the temps on the cool side so that the plants are not growing too actively. A south facing window in the winter provides enough light. More important is the temperature. Warm days are good, but cool evenings are important for healthy growth otherwise some of your plants will weaken and become prone to disease and insects, and may not look natural. Especially echeveria, sedum and aloe which are much better off with a winter rest. The Lithops should be OK with enough light but are probably better off with cooler temps as well but it is not critical....See MoreDo I need grow lights?
Comments (14)Of course the daylength and angle of the sun has something to do with how much light reaches the seedlings, but I don't think that's the only reason you see legginess on the seedlings. They simply need more light than they can get via a window at this time of the year. Winter sunlight is weak and inconsistent, and it is even weaker on cloudy days. When I first starting raising seedlings indoors in the 1990s, I raised them in a window, and it wasn't even a really sunny area, but I would carry them outside for several hours a day from the very moment they sprouted. They only had to stay inside on cold days. I had legginess issues all the time because they just couldn't get adequate light when they were inside, which is why I switched to using lights instead of relying on natural light. I don't know that lettuce and spinach are more prone to legginess than tomatoes and peppers, but because of their growth habit, they seem to tolerate legginess less well than the tomatoes and peppers. I would assume the low-E glass might allow less light to reach the plants. It won't matter to the plants if they have light during the day or at night as long as they have it. I don't see why you couldn't leave the lights on at night and turn them off during the day. I am assuming there is not a garage window that would let in just enough light to make the plants start stretching towards that window, thereby becoming leggy in the process. You can wrap your shelf with clear plastic or reflective mylar to help hold in the heat. A cold frame might work for starting the most cold-hardy seedlings at this time of year, but only if it is covered up with a blanket or something at night to keep out the cold and if it has a vent to allow excess heat to escape during the day time. All a cold frame does is keep frost off your plants and provide them with a warmer environment when the sun is shining. It does not keep them much warmer at night because it lacks both insulation and a heat source, so it cools down once the sun sets. Those pop up cold protection things and plastic mini greenhouses do not keep the plants warmer during cold nights and tend to roast them during the day without venting. If we ever build a cold frame (and I have saved a storm door to use whenever we get around to building a cold frame), we will insulate the walls. I use floating row cover material to keep frost off my plants on cold nights in the spring once they've been transplanted into the ground or into their permanent large containers, but even the best row cover made (and I don't have it) only gives you 10 degrees of protection. I have two different weights---one gives 2 to 4 degrees of cold protection and the other gives 6 to 8 degrees. So, even with them, I can keep the plants only slightly warmer at night. I have had some luck keeping plants warm on really cold nights by putting on two layers of the row cover that gives 6 to 8 degree protection, but just because you double the fabric doesn't mean it gives the plants 12 to 16 degrees of protection. I think it might give them 10 degrees if doubled. However, in spring, it is enough to prevent the plants from freezing (usually) on cold nights. We have a sunporch with insulated half-walls and glass windows and a greenhouse, and it gets pretty much just as cold inside both of them at night as it does outside. I could keep either or both of them warmer by heating them, but don't think it would be cost-effective. They are warmer during the day on sunny days though, and are uncomfortably warm on warm to hot sunny days, so venting is essential. In past years I have started leaving seedlings out on the sunporch all night long once the temperatures are staying above about 35 degrees at night. I won't chance losing them by leaving them out there on cooler nights. I use a heat mat to germinate pepper seedlings and that's about it. I remove the heat mat as soon as the seeds germinate because leaving the plants on the heat mat after that is not good for them. Every one of us has had to experiment to figure out what works for us in terms of seed-starting and then the hardening off of seedlings so they will be ready to go into the garden. I have found that what works best for me is to avoid all the "too's"...don't start seeds too early or too late, don't give them too much light or too little light, don't grow them in temps that are too hot or too cold, don't keep them too wet or too dry, don't expose them to too little air movement indoors followed by too much wind movement outdoors before they can acclimate to it and don't plant too many. (Well, I still have trouble with that last one.) As your home and property change, you will have to adapt your seed-starting practices accordingly. For example, I used to use the wrap-around front porch, which faces east and south, to harden off seedlings when I moved them out from the house. However, as our young trees and shrubs grew, the porch became increasingly shady, which is great on a hot summer day but not great for seedlings that need light. So, then I had to move the seedlings to a new location to harden off. You have to be flexible and adapt as your conditions change. You also have to be able to adapt to every kind of weird weather Oklahoma throws at you and your plants in spring. Starting seeds indoors is a wonderful process but it will drive you crazy if you let it. Things happen to young seedlings---a flat gets dropped and hits the ground upside down demolishing little seedlings, the cat decides a flat of tomato plants is a cat bed, a sudden wind gust sweeps a flat of seedlings off an outdoor table. It happens. I just always raise enough seedlings to make up for life's little disasters and don't let it make me crazy if a variety germinates poorly, is hit by damping off or meets with some unforeseen disaster....See MoreIndoor pepper plant?
Comments (29)Update: Okay, so I just re-potted one my pepper plants because it was yellowing and starting to look bad. Many suggested that it might be root rot, but I saw no sign of root rot when I re-potted it. The roots looked very healthy. I trimmed the plant back about 70% and moved to a 12" inch pot (it was in a 21" pot). I hope I did not kill it. I could not find the ingredients to make my own soil from scratch, so I bought some organic potting soil that is a mix of pine firs and sphagnum peat and mixed in a good quantity of Perlite. What really confuses me is this; I have two pepper plants that I have treated equally and one is thriving and still putting on blooms and peppers and the other (that was doing the best at first) is on the verge of death for no explicable reason. The one that is doing well is dark green and full of blooms and peppers. The other one has been a on slow decline for about two months now. At first the leaves were slowly turning a lighter green, but in the last two weeks they started to yellow. The other plant is sucking up water like it is going out of style. When it runs out of water the leaves droop dramatically in a short period of time and perk up almost immediately when I water it. But the other plant appeared to be using no water at all. Even when I stopped watering it for two weeks, the leaves never drooped and I could still feel moisture in the soil a few inches from the top. I makes no sense to me. If it was not root rot, what the heck is wrong with my one plant?...See More- 7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoyanksfan7 thanked daninthedirt (USDA 9a, HZ9, CentTX, Sunset z30, Cfa)
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rhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7