Kim, maybe later in the summer, if it grows back in again I would be happy to ! Right now it is recovering from a good whacking last fall and I already sold off what I could this spring. One main vine has pulled itself out of the pot without my knowledge and is now wilting. The vines can branch out so much that they become bottom heavy and pull themselves straight out of the media. Suicide by growth. I find out after noticing a vine wilting badly. That's the one I am trying to root in Growstones and water. I may buy another one from the same place just because they bloom from the word - GO ! If I do, I will remember you and those of you who have inquired in the past. Marco

SpanishFly, that is great to hear that they love FULL sun all day. I am way up here in Massachusetts in New England so I imagine my temps of mostly 80's by day only a few 90's and never 100 will be just fine for all of mine. How do you keep them in cool conditions if the temps there get unusually warm too early in the season? The cold room mines are in is getting to warm to stay in the 40's and now I am concerned it will get to warm and that I should start to stick them outside once it hits the 40's by day. If I get them out of that room that has been starting to be in the 50's and 60's by day, they would stay colder if outside of on a very cold porch not attached to my home which can still drop to the 30's by night...What would you do? Would you hold them back from growing actively no matter what by keeping them dry even if it starts to warm up? Should I water mine about now? Thanks a million. Mike

These are all very valuable comments, and yes, one is battling with my rhubarb but I'll tell you where I'm coming from. These plants are volunteers in a former full sun border, which has become overgrown with various weeds and perennials because it is now shaded by our neighbours' overgrown maple. I have moved out my real sun lovers (hibiscus, heliopsis etc.) and I feel I must just clear everything out. Many of my daylilies need dividing and I was thinking of using many of them, Hostas which also need dividing, and various ground covers I have around. Babs your idea is a very good one and I may yet use it. However, now that I have started clearing, I have found several of these plants. They seem to be able to take on a trailing nature and I just want to rip!! I feel I should start with a clean slate. So it's my impatient nature which makes me think they are not keepers. The one near the rhubarb will definitely go. I'll keep you posted.

The plant should be watered whenever it needs watering, That should be the metric by which you decide whether or not any plant needs water, unless you're using a medium that drains so freely it allows you to water on a schedule, and you aren't. Using a "tell" made from a wooden dowel rod 7-9.5mm thick. More below about this. If you're to offer the plant the best opportunity to maximize realization of its genetic potential, repotting regularly is essential. Repotting involves bare-rooting, root pruning, and a change of soil. Repotting relieves all stress associated with root congestion; whereas, potting up to a larger size pot ensures the stress of root congestion becomes a permanent stress factor that limits growth rate, vitality (health), the plant's ability to defend itself, and often appearance. The best time to repot would be just before (2 weeks or so) the Summer Solstice (21 June) when your plant has good energy stores in reserve and its current ability to make its own food (carry on photosynthesis) is about to peak. Using a 'tell' Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need plenty of air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support the kind of root health most growers would like to see; and, a healthy root system is a prerequisite to a healthy plant. Watering in small sips leads to avoid over-watering leads to a residual build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil from tapwater and fertilizer solutions, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor. In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water. Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'. One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue. Al