What determines whether or not the pot a plant is in is appropriate in size is A) the size of the root mass and B) the grower's choice of grow medium. Media vary very significantly in how much water they can hold. Those media which hold significant amounts of excess water require the grower to be much more circumspect about pot size than when using media that holds little to no excess water. Media formulated to eliminate or reduce to nearly nil the amount of excess water it can hold eliminates the potential of over-potting almost entirely.

Whether or not it's appropriate to fertilize with some regularity in the winter months is pretty much determined by watering practices and the physical properties of the grow medium. If using a grow medium which allows proper watering practices (so the soil is being flushed at each watering) and the grower is indeed taking advantage of the soils porosity and sharp drainage, it wouldn't be at all out of line to suggest the plant should be fertilized at every 3rd to 5th watering, depending on how porous the medium is and to what extent it's being flushed. It makes much more sense to tie the frequency with which we fertilize to how frequently we water as opposed to arbitrarily relying on the calendar, reason being it wouldn't be unusual for the planting to be watered as much or more than 5X as often in summer than winter, so why should fertilizing intervals remain a constant?

For the plant's well being it becomes particularly important to flush and fertilize in summer AND winter whenever the grower is using a fertilizer the NPK RATIO (different than NPK %s) of which doesn't closely match the ratio at which the plant actually absorbs nutrients, but it's good practice no matter what the fertilizer's ratio might be. E.g., if a grower is using a popular bloom booster fertilizer like 10-30-10, (s)he is supplying almost 8X the amount of P the plant can use relative to N. The amount of N supplied in the fertilizer is used quickly (relative to the amt of P in the medium) leaving no N and lots of residual P. Since the fertilizer furnishes a normal amount of the other nutrients it contains, they too are soon used. To avoid resupplying the deficient nutrients by avoiding fertilizer applications denies the plant normal growth and the ability to keep its systems orderly. Not flushing the medium ensures an even larger build-up of P, which can quickly lead to antagonistic deficiencies of several nutrients, namely potassium, calcium, iron, zinc, and copper.

Al

thank You very much for your extensive answer I can that most of the dwarf bananas have larger pots and after reading about it, it just seems right.

Thank u

your plant is highly stressed from shipping from grower.. to seller.. to you ..

i would not do anything with it for at least a couple months .. to let is get over said stress ... before you stress the living daylights out of it by repotting ... whats your hurry???

it looks fine in the pot its in right now ... for its size right now ... so ... whats your hurry ...

fert is NOT a response to stress ... right now .. so dont hurry that ...

also ... there might be a better time to repot.. than when you are going into winter .... so if you did it in late winter.. or early spring.. you will give it the time to destress as noted above ...

when it goes outside in late spring.. harden it off to sun ... start with full bright shade.. and work your way to sun ... but understand it will probably need a different watering program .. once it goes outside .. especially if its in a black pot ... more on that later.. if you make it that far ...

welcome to the forums....

ken

hi guys 5 days update I did as You guys said not touched not repotted and I can see a massive improvement please take a look at the picture this warm green color leaf is new and also another spiral is coming along am very happy with it. Could I ask further how often I should water it and is there a need to repotting it in some or just leave it as it is? I'm in London UK rainy season now.

The plant

is kept in front of the window

Thanks in advance

The plant should be watered whenever it needs watering, That should be the metric by which you decide whether or not any plant needs water, unless you're using a medium that drains so freely it allows you to water on a schedule, and you aren't. Using a "tell" made from a wooden dowel rod 7-9.5mm thick. More below about this.

If you're to offer the plant the best opportunity to maximize realization of its genetic potential, repotting regularly is essential. Repotting involves bare-rooting, root pruning, and a change of soil. Repotting relieves all stress associated with root congestion; whereas, potting up to a larger size pot ensures the stress of root congestion becomes a permanent stress factor that limits growth rate, vitality (health), the plant's ability to defend itself, and often appearance. The best time to repot would be just before (2 weeks or so) the Summer Solstice (21 June) when your plant has good energy stores in reserve and its current ability to make its own food (carry on photosynthesis) is about to peak.

Using a 'tell'

Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need plenty of air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support the kind of root health most growers would like to see; and, a healthy root system is a prerequisite to a healthy plant.

Watering in small sips leads to avoid over-watering leads to a residual build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil from tapwater and fertilizer solutions, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor.

In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water.

Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'.

One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue.

Al

Thank u for all the comments

“Rainy season"? I didn’t know we had one. Every season is rainy season here😉