Woca or Osmo on Kitchen Cabinets
kmschaefer628
7 years ago
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kmschaefer628
7 years agoRelated Discussions
Who is living on a Rubio, Woca or Osmo floor?
Comments (3)Here's a long thread with OSMO pictures - some during application -- by a Kitchens forum member who did it herself. My carpenter friend swears by OSMO and I'll be trying it myself next time around. Here is a link that might be useful: OSMO thread in Kitchens...See MoreButcherblock counter finish help - Osmo over waterlox?
Comments (17)Osmo really needs to be applied to untreated wood. Osmo is a hardwax oil which works by penetrating into the wood, then building on the surface, then hardening as the volatile compounds evaporate. If you've already applied Waterlox, its oils will have penetrated the wood, and ordinary sanding is not going to remove this. I think you'll be much more satisfied with the effect of using just one or the other. We did a 50/50 prep on our 6-ft long maple island top. My carpenter told me that a locally famous chef for whom he'd done a kitchen had specified Osmo for the cutting surfaces, so we put that on the range end, which I use as a prep area (like a cutting board). The other end got Waterlox, as did the rest of the countertops (sapele). We did all this in late spring, when the temps were over 50, though a few nights dipped down. If it will consistently be below 50, I'd suggest using a heater (we can rent those contractor-type propane heaters around here, and used them in our construction before the heating system was ready.) I suspect you'll get a smoother, more even coat if you can keep the temps in the recommended range. The last coat of Waterlox went on nice and smooth; no problems with bubbles or touch up needed. It's beautiful, and so easy to care for, just wipe it down and it gleams. I also finished all my drawers (birch plywood, came sanded/unfinished) with Osmo, because after the first couple of days of outgassing, the rest of the curing time is pretty much non-toxic. I figured since the drawers would spend so much time closed, any outgassing would be concentrated, so for these I did want the least toxic product. Osmo is super easy to work with -- I applied it with rags. I spent day after day in the room with lots of Osmo. I kept the windows partly open -- need some air circulation and fresh air while it's wet. After the first couple of hours the smell was not a problem at all. They dried overnight sufficiently to lightly sand and apply a second coat. Now, several months later, they're so silky -- easy to clean -- no residual smell. A local guy finished my cabinet doors with Osmo -- that's all he uses, because he believes it's safer sooner than other products, as well as easy to work with. I picked them up the day after he'd finished, at which point they were smooth/dry to the touch, but still had the Osmo smell -- like cooking oil left out. The smell was gone in a day or two. Really, I love both of these products. I do like the way water just beads up on the Waterlox countertops, and for that reason, I also used Waterlox on all my fir window sills....See MoreDONE!!! White, marble, walnut transitional kitchen
Comments (93)I like the slopped v-groove over the kitchen....but I find Interesting back and forth on this thread. Having installed many, many white marble in kitchens over the last 5 years of what I would call "white marble fad", I would have to say that marble is one of the least practical stones that can be installed in either kitchens or baths. We probably have follow-up work for over 80% of clients that do install these counters. The poster who recommended cutting boards is spot on - you should be militant in using them. I feel badly for our customers that need this follow-on work but they have that need for the marble at the outset and so the look overrides the practicality. I am surprised that wine, tomato products and vinegar hasn't etched as even 3 - 5 seconds of those on a surface whether its marble or Danby marble can definitely scar the surface. We do sealant the product but that is only good for 6 months - they say 1 year but that isn't the case. Even then it doesn't stop all the etching. Two of our clients recently swapped out their marble - thankfully we are just installers not the people that designed the kitchen. We just do what we are told and charge for it. We do a lot of re-honing but that is not without risks as marble contains fissures or layers that can bust up even in delicate rework. Marble is a very hard stone to work with as a professional. The look is very in right now and your kitchen does look great - I like the differential in your ceiling - very cool. Silver Stone Contractors, Inc....See Morenatural red oak floors with natural cherry kitchen cabinets
Comments (13)I've done jobs with different oil products but used the Rubio only twice. One turned out perfect. It was a mix of White and Pure on rift sawn White Oak. The owner insisted on using a green finish with no solvents and I warned her it was fine except for potential issues with dog accidents. You can probably guess what happened. The second was Super White that we water popped. It ended up with some cloudy areas which points out issues with finishing technique. The floor needs to be sanded perfectly and scrupulously cleaned before oil application, and the finish needs to be removed completely or it will be cloudy. I just finished a natural color job with WOCA. It turned out nice in the end but took a bit of work. We washed the freshly sanded floor with the Wood Cleaner. The effect of the water made the floor look less smooth than desired. We tried extra coats, abraded with an abrasive nylon pad then re-oiled to the same end. Then we re-screened the floor, applied two more coats and it looks great. I think I'd forgo the cleaning step in the future. I like the idea of the Rubio and even have enough material in stock to do my own floor however I like the ease of maintenance and relative simplicity of the WOCA product line. The Rubio Soap is crazy expensive IMO. Coloring my opinion is that my local Rubio distributor is somewhat pathetic. I found a distributor in GA that carries WOCA and Rubio so that will at least put that issue to rest and give me a resource with expertise to draw on. I like the Rubio Smoke, Fumed and Precolor products for the breadth of unique looks it can achieve when used with their products. The bad? It requires more routine maintenance than poly. It's more susceptible to minor spills and stains. You are unlikely to find maintenance product for sale locally, so stock up. I have two older parquet floors in a wood that's no longer available. I plan on sanding it, wire brushing it, then applying a mix of White and Super White with the idea that the floor will go from it's current dark mahogany look, to a coffee with cream color with white in the deeper grain. I don't know that I'd use it in my own kitchen even though I can pay my own workers to change it fairly effortlessly. I am something of a skeptic when reading the claims of the wonders of the new generation of oil finishes, even though I'd like them to be true....See Morekmschaefer628
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