So Finally everyone, I have cooked on my Lacanche! It did not change my life by itself but having my house in Italy might. Might first impression and this relates directly to our new member cheril27, "If you buy professional equipment, you will make a professional mess!" I missed Luis and Raul as I cleaned the spattered olive oil off everthing. The stove is very to clean and did not mind it. In the outskirts where we are. we use bottled gas and the range made funny buzzing sounds like the sound effects they use when dipicting buzz bombs over London. The flames where very hot. I could only simmer on the smallest flame. I really like the simmer cabinet. It is a super crock pot and will be a great help when I do a formal 6-7 course dinner. I bought a plancha (flat griddle) and I love it. Besides the French toast and hash brown thing, it will double as a French top when I need it. The hood by fornair is fantastic. Really pulls the air up and out with great light. In Italy it is law that there be thermocouples to stop the gas if there is no flame. Why not here in the US? On my range if the flame goes out the gas is shut off. Makes sense no? According to French Ranges this is not available here. I love the range with no qualms at all. I am yet another one who sight unseen spent more money than I should have by far and I am walking away content with my purchase. My favorite thing? The maroon glace. The kitchen just would not have had the same finess without it. Here are two shots of the nearly completed kitchen. It still need some warming up but I'm happy.

I have the same dilemma for the exact same reasons. I'm putting my foot down and making the final decision on this one because I do the vast majority of cooking and cleaning. Well along with our housekeeper, but she'll clean up my way without a grumble, unlike my husband. ;) I'm also considering the Blanco Performa along with a few others. I really like the look of a sink + drainboard but I'm still not sure if it's practical use of counter space. We used to have one large single basin and I loved it (Ikea apron front single bowl), now we have 2 equal bowls and I'm looking forward to going back to a larger single again. The second bowl just gets grungy and piles up with stuff that never gets put away. I like the extra elbow room a large sink provides, being able to put cookie sheets in flat, not always bumping pots into the faucet, etc. And you can get far more sink in a smaller cabinet with a single. Going with a 33" cabinet instead of 36" doesn't seem like much but it makes a big difference in my kitchen layout and that seals the deal. Tell your husband that in a large sink, you simply don't fill it as deep. There's no need for more than a few inches and he'll still have plenty of water to work with. For this reason, I actually prefer shallower sinks but they are hard to find, the trend being towards back-aching depth these days. I have one of the touch/motion sensing faucets and I absolutely love it for rinsing. Just a quick wave of the item in front of the sensor gives a jet of water just long enough to rinse. It amounts to far less water than filling a second sink just for rinsing. The faucet is the only thing I'm keeping when we gut the kitchen.

70/30 and 60/40 are almost worse than 50/50. I dunno... After only having 50/50 my whole life (all 36 years of it, lol), I'm quite impressed by my experimental* 70/30. :-D The disposal is in the smaller section (kind of a pain), but the smaller section is closer to the stove, so it's not too bad. My colander perfectly spans the small section, so when I'm draining pasta, nothing touches the bottom of the sink. Which is really nice. I hand wash very few things, but I don't fill the sink up to do it (soapy sponge and slowly running water do the trick for me). All of that said, my dreams are filled with copper single basin sinks, so that I only have one disposal and one drain to clean. :-) [*experimental -- trying it out in the tract house we just had built, because I wanted to convince the husband that there's more to life than 50/50, and the builder wanted far too much for the single basin upgrade; the ultimate goal is to do single basin in the custom house.]

@C. First of all, if you are 5'10" and have really bad back pain, then a 38" countertop height might still be too low for you. I'm barely 5'7" when when standing up as straight as I can, and a 38 3/4" countertop height is very comfortable for me. At 5'10", you could easily go up to a 40" countertop height. It is uncommon for kitchen designers to specify countertops much higher than 40" for anyone except a frequent kitchen user who is taller than 6 feet in order to retain the general usability for varying heights of potential users, but you may always do what you find best for yourself. I would encourage you to do a mockup of a 40" countertop height and try different tasks like chopping on a cutting board and stirring in mixing bowls to see how you like it. Remember that you should allow 1/2" for cabinetry leveling, so find your perfect height, and then subtract 1/2" (from the total of cabinetry plus countertop) when placing your order. The minimum possible front countertop ledge width is determined by factors which contribute to the risk of a break. I will guarantee you that ledge width in your picture is probably wider in person than it may appear here. Few fabricators will cut a continuous ledge (meaning without seams) less than 2 1/2" to 3" wide, and some fabricators will even burden you with a 4" or greater ledge, though that is excessive. The Galley issues guidelines for cutting the sink hole with no seams around the hole, but this technique complicates the handling and transport of the piece because that area is so delicate once it is cut. If I understand, correctly your countertop will only be 1/2" thick which may mean that you are using porcelain or something of that nature, and in that case, the substrate will dictate that you will need a seam for a narrow front ledge rather than having the sink cut from the middle. Porcelain is already fragile, and it won't survive the handling, transport, and installation with a pre-cut, narrow, continuous sink ledge. Be cautious of any fabricator who wants to install steel rods to help stabilize a front sink ledge. Those rods can get wet and swell and cause future breakage. The best policy is to avoid rod reinforcement. In terms of ergonomics, the height of your countertop and the height of your sink is relatively more important than how far forward you stand to the sink, but if you have really bad back pain and want to give your best effort to eliminating that in your kitchen, then an apron-front sink still needs to be on your list for consideration. I regularly operate within the full confines of the apron front which brings dishes and other tasks such as cleaning the sink very close to my body and allows me to stand mostly upright. It is the leaning forward at a sink that strains your back, and you will lose at least a hand width's advantage with a non-apron-front sink of your ability to work closer to your body to minimize leaning. For many people this is not an issue, and due to the fact that non-apron-front sinks are usually less expensive and more plentiful in terms of brands and styles, plus more aesthetically pleasing in many instances, the majority of kitchen remodelers are not using apron-fronts. Both Rachiele and Havens offer texturing for their stainless steel sinks, and if you look at their portfolios, you'll see that a hammered or otherwise textured finish is actually very pretty for an apron front sink. I have a textured finish, and it hides water spots and scratches and it looks as new today as it did several years ago when I had it installed. My only caution is that the interior of the sink should preferably be smooth to aid with cleaning. I believe that texturing can be applied only to the forward-facing and top ledge part of the apron front if you like that look. Spillage over the apron front is not a problem for me. Every now and then, I might get a small drip down the apron front, maybe after loading the dishwasher with something wet, but nothing more than you would sometimes get from a sink with a ledge that gets water on the front ledge and drips down occasionally. I would be hard pressed to say if I even have to wipe drips of water off the apron front even once per week. It just really is not a problem for me. It sounds like you are on the right track to helping with your ergonomics. As I mentioned earlier, your first step is to see if you can raise those countertops up to 40". If you do a lot of bread kneading or something where you need your arms straight down, you might consider doing dual levels somewhere in the kitchen. Generally, 41" to 42" is the upper stretch of a modified countertop height, and that would be for someone taller than 6 feet. The reason that we don't like to raise the countertop much more than that is because then they become unusable for people who are shorter. However, at a height of 5'10" with back problems, 40" is not at all out of reason. Be aware that if you wear shoes with thick soles when you are working in the kitchen or if you intend to put down a comfort mat on the floor that has substantial thickness, those factors could alter how you feel about your cabinetry height. Mocking up a height and doing various tasks is the most reliable way to determine what is best for you.