Do you use a water filter?
bellacassels
7 years ago
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nicole___
7 years ago
ravencajun Zone 8b TX
7 years agoRelated Discussions
Can a water filter be used to change pH of water?
Comments (3)Thanks, chervil2. So am I right to think that a water filter would not DIRECTLY lower the pH, but by removing salts and minerals it would have the indirect consequence of lowering it? I think you're saying that I could EITHER use a a filter OR add low salt concentrations, and that either of these could/would have the effect of lowering the pH? Or ... do I need to do both? I bought a product at a hydroponics store called PH Down and then called the manufacturer with advice on how to use it. When I told him of my 9.1 pH, he said that just using the solution would only work temporarily, that after a day or so the pH would most likely float right back up because of the probable high level of total dissolved solids. He said that I would have to first use a filter to remove the salts and minerals, and THEN the Ph Down would then be able to permanently lower the pH. Does that sound about right to you? I'm pretty sure my water has a high content of sodium carbonate. btw, what does it mean to "buffer" my water? Thanks much for your help on this -- this is all learn-as-you-go for me....See MoreWhy do the sediment filters clog after a few uses of water?
Comments (5)There are numerous ways to obtain water for a private system. You can dig, bore or drill a well. If ground conditions are right, you can even drive a pipe into the ground until it reaches water bearing strata which often consists of sand or fine gravel. The unit on the end of the pipe is a screened pickup. The pipe itself is plumbed directly to the pump. There is no well casing. The pipe is its own well casing. Check the PDF in the link below. The screen on sandpoints are often quite course in order to keep from plugging up. If they do plug, you're screwed. You have to try back-washing them in the hopes of clearing the screen. If that does not work, you have to drive a new well in a different location but if the strata is the same all over your property, then it's only a matter of time before it happens again. The course screen allows large particulate to enter the water system. Sometimes this is a temporary issue and it will clear itself with continuous pumping. Local well drillers are the best source of information regarding such issues and the OP should probably consult them. It could be that the only solution to this problem is to go to a different type of well that is deeper. She may need to get water from 80 feet or 150 feet or 300 feet below grade in order to find an acquifer that is free from the contaminants that she is forced to deal with currently. In most places, you must disclose whether you have adequate potable water in sufficient quantity to meet the needs of the home being sold. If you lie about it, you can be sued successfully for all the costs associated with remedying the problem so it isn't something to take lightly. The local health branch can condemn a house and put a stop to occupancy if there isn't proper sanitation available. It seems to me that the real problem lies with the water-bearing strata that the sandpoint is pulling water from. There may be no end to the crud that is flowing past the sandpoint. There is no way of knowing one way or the other. She could hire a well driller to put a pump directly on the well pipe and pump it non-stop for a couple of days to see what comes out and if it is increasing, decreasing or constant. Periodic examinations of the residue left after pouring a five gallon pail of water through filter media will give you an idea as to what is happening. Doing that should give the OP some clue as to what direction to go in. In the interim though, I would be hauling the local Culligan Man's butt back to the home to figure out WHY his solution to her problem isn't working. If he cannot produce what he originally promised then he should remove what he sold her, put her system back to the way it was previously and refund her money in full. The error was his, not hers. It's just that simple. Here is a link that might be useful: sandpoint wells...See Moreunder counter water filter - have no idea what I am doing
Comments (0)also x-cross posting to plumbing. I am going to install an undercounter water filtration system and have looked at all the major brands - aquapure, aquasana, GE, Whirlpool, Culligan and they all seem to do the job in terms of filtration. My concern is plumbing. I have read the stories of leaks and floods and so I want to be sure the plumbing and parts are as good as the unit. From what I read it seems the problems are due to plastic tubes and parts and using a saddle valve (which I have no idea what that is. Some of the units can use copper tubing and brass t-valves which from reading seems to be a better approach. For those of you who have installed or do installations - please, please give me some advice as to the best system, parts, and way to install to reduce the risk of leaks and floods. thanks!...See MoreDo I need a filter for my pond? When do I start/stop my bio-filter?
Comments (0)There is often debate over whether it's necessary to filter a pond, and always a few people who claim they have great luck with letting the pond "go natural" with no human interference. A man-made pond, though, is not a natural environment, and will only benefit from some form of filtration or at least aeration. Filtering keeps the water cleansed of organic wastes that can cause cloudy, smelly, murky, or even toxic water. It simplifies maintenance, conserves water by cleansing and recycling it, and can help create "gin-clear" water that allows optimal viewing of the pond and its inhabitants. If you plan on creating a water garden and keeping only plants in the pond, you should be able to get away with little or no filtration, depending upon the type and number of plants you grow. A small pump used with a spitter, fountain, waterfall, or similar feature, should create enough movement to keep the water from stagnating, and diligence in keeping dead plant life from accumulating in the water will help maintain water clarity. However, most people find that, once they've created the pond, they want to add fish, and this is when filtration becomes vital. The more fish you have, the more filtration is necessary to keep the water and the fish healthy. Fish produce ammonia from both their gills and kidneys. Ammonia is also produced from other organic matter decaying in the pond. Whatever the source, ammonia is toxic to fish and must be removed from the water. Frequent water changes and ammonia binding water conditioners will help temporarily, but the addition of a biological filter is the best and easiest way to deal with this toxin. Briefly, a biofilter works by creating a suitable living environment for certain types of bacteria which do the cleaning for you. As pond water is slowly pumped though the biofilter, Nitrosomonas bacteria consume the ammonia, turning it into nitrites (which are also harmful to fish.) Nitrobacter bacteria then oxidizes the nitrites into nitrates, which become food for the plants in your pond. Although these "good bacteria" are present on every surface in your pond, they are not usually there in large enough numbers to reliably cleanse the water of these compounds that are so deadly to fish, and so biofiltration is strongly recommended when there are fish in the pond. Mechanical filtration (that which removes solid waste) is always beneficial, but simply keeping the water clear of solids does not guarantee fish-safe water. Ammonia and nitrites can not be seen except through the use of water test kits. Ideally, water will first pass through some type of mechanical filter that removes solids prior to entering the biofilter, where the toxic compounds are oxidized to nitrates and sent back to the pond where the nitrates will be absorbed by the plants therefore keeping the pond healthy for both your fish and plants. These beneficial bacteria cease to function at temperatures below fifty degrees, so running the biofilter all winter is futile if you're in a cold winter area. The fish will not be eating and producing their usual amount of waste during the winter, so the biofilter will not be needed anyway. Once the autumn temperatures are below 50 degrees Fahrenheit, clean and store the biofilter until spring returns. If you're lucky enough to live in a warm climate, it should be kept running year round. Start the filter up again in the spring as the temperatures get into the upper 40s to low 50s. The nitrogen cycle takes about four to six weeks to establish once the bacteria begin colonizing in the warmer temperatures, so be diligent about testing your water for ammonia and nitrites if the fish are eating. It would take far too many pages to describe here all the types of filters available. Research and ask questions of more experienced ponders, and join several of the informative forums on the Internet. Do not always believe a manufacturer's advertisements, and if tempted to buy something being touted by a salesperson, research it before making an investment. There are many plans for do-it-yourself filters that are simple to make, produce excellent results, and are much less expensive than most of the commercial filters available. And remember - you can never have too large a biofilter! Ronaye, Steve and David...See More
wildchild2x2
7 years agolast modified: 7 years ago
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7 years ago
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7 years agoMarilyn Sue McClintock
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7 years ago
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