TTTF + heat = brown patch (period). No fun! I have a beautiful TTTF that gets BP every year, and every year I learn A LOT more about prevention and treatment. When you combine fungus with drought especially it is very possible to have the crown die. Don't kid yourself. It can die. If the conditions are bad and the fungus persists then it can move to the crown by itself and kill it. Fungicides should be sprayed at the first sign (like you said) of the disease. Professional products are the only way to go there. The homeowner products are close to worthless. The professional products actually end up being cheaper but application is no easy job. As far as it coming back, again, it all depends on if it is truly dead or not. Last year was really bad (and this year was worse here but I treated) and about 93% of the yard came back just beautiful at least by the spring. I really doubt that everything will "come back" this fall. Most should next spring. Sorry no experience with the Billy Goat overseeder. I've always aerated multiple times then seeded. Be careful with applying herbicides and the timing of your seeding. My seedlings really struggled last year because I pushed it a little too much with Trimec, I think. Unfortunately, I can only offer you bad news when it comes to brown patch. It comes down to fungicides - preemptive applications. Basically, if you wait until there are obvious brown patches, then spray, those brown patches will only come back after temperatures fall, and conditions improve. If you spray before things look obvious, you should be able to keep the true green as long as you stay on top of it, treating every 28 days roughly when conditions are bad. I'm sure you know all the cultural practices to follow, and I'm sure you already are, but those are extremely important to follow religiously! They are things like watering early in the morning, and infrequently, and don't fertilize when condition are present for brown patch (night time temperatures that don't fall below 70, and have a lot of dew, etc.). Hope this helps.

bryansda, premmies and new born Cabbage Patch doll are nearly the same size. I have never knitted or crochet for them, But if you sew, the they had a good sellection of patterns in the Simpicity and Butterrick sewing catalogues. I sure hope I have been helpful to you.. If I see any patterns when I surf the net.. I'll keep it aside for you. Minnie

cut & paste from another thread this morning: "Quinclorac kill crabgrass. It's the active ingredient in Drive XLR8, you can use any brand and it will work. Some people (reeljake) uses Sulfosulfuron (Sedge Ender) and it works fine as well. People have have pretty good results keep most weeds out of their bermuda with Celsius and Sulfosulfuron. Plus there is no issues related to applying in hotter temps. Reeljake also uses Dimension with active ingredient dithiopyr as his pre-emergent, I use Prodiamine. With either you want year round coverage to keep ALL WEEDS from germinating. You will need to start your PreM asap to keep winter weeds at bay, then again in Spring for Spring/Summer weeds. PreM: Prodiamine or Dimension Crabgrass: Quinclorac or Sulfosulfuron General weeds (post-emergent): Celsius - 2,4-D will work also but turns grass yellow If you get the correct products, it won't matter what the weed is, it either will never germinate in your yard, thanks to the PreM, or will die when sprayed with the post-emergent."

Probably the same process being described with different terms. I usually say we stagger the end joints and patch in new wood. The intent is to make look as if it was never patched so most (if not all) contractors would use the same method. I can think of no acceptable alternatives.