Still not happy with my backsplash- $2K to redo :0
Lauren0319
7 years ago
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monicakm_gw
7 years agoLauren0319
7 years agoRelated Discussions
Induction range under 2k?
Comments (36)Note that Frigidaire specifies a 20" space between their appliances. http://pdf.lowes.com/howtoguides/012505503399_how.pdf I am pretty sure that that this is a matter of design function rather than safety, per se. The 20" spacing gives you countertop space on which to move things off the stove or put a cutting board, etc. It also provides a place for fridge doors to swing without bumping into the stove, etc. I did not see anything similar in the Samsung materials, but I would guess that was only because Samsung did not think of it. It doesn't mean the same considerations will not apply. As I said above, though, we work with the kitchens we have, and if you have to put the stove and fridge next to each other, that is what you have to do. As for differences between the stoves, the Frigidaire does have larger power-boost on the back rear burner at 3400 wH. The Smasung NE 597 has the two square burners on the left side. If you have a really big pot, you can run them together and get power boost at 4600 wH, but otherwise, running the left rear burner separately with its own boost, you get 2300 wH at boost. That's plenty for boiling a water in regular size stockpot or dutch oven but it will be a couple of minutes slower than with the Frigidaire. On the other hand, do you have any interest in cooking on a rectangular griddle for pancakes, etc? I'm talking about something like the Lodge 10"x20" cast-iron grill/griddle plate or the 14" x 23" ChefKing carbon steel griddle. The Samsung NE597 is specifically set-up to do this but the Frigidaire manual specifically forbids it. Some people really like these things while others have no interest in them, at all. The stoves also have difference between their convection operations. The Samsung uses three convection fans in the oven along with an 800 wH burner element (so called "true" convection) while the Frigidaire uses a plain fan. In CR's baking evenness tests (for which I recall reading somewhere that they do not use the convection features) the Samsung electric range ovens get very-good to excellent ratings while Figidiare electric range ovens get very good ratings for baking evenness. It theory, Samsung's extra fans and the heating element could make some difference in evenness some baking tasks, mainly baking multiple racks of sugar cookies without having to check and swap pans. Otherwise, my experience in comparing third-element-induction from major manufacturers is that it does not make much noticeable difference. There are a couple of extra features that you get from the Samsung oven, though. One is that the third element allows you to run the Samsung oven at 150F. This can be useful for things like dehydrating. Most major brand ovens won't go less than 170F and that is true of the Frigidaire in this instance. Second, the Samsung convection can be run at low temps (say 100F) for defrosting frozen items (although many people would find the microwave more convenient) or for proofing bread (although I've always just turned on the oven light and not had to bother with the fan running). I took a brief pass through the Samsung and Frigidaire manuals and noticed a lot of similarities. Besides that annoying chicken nuggets button, they seem to use a lot of the same illustrations on pan positioning. Makes me wonder if there is some outsourcing here. Reliability and warranty support are unknowns. You can find plenty of complaints about both companies. The only systematic data I can find, which is CR's annual membership surveys on reliability, do not provide much help here. Frigidaire electric stoves seem to run about mid pack with a 10% problem rate on electric stoves purchased from 2007 to 2012. But, there is no report on Samsung, probably because it apparently did not sell enough electric stoves to CR members to provide reportable data. That about exhausts what I could see as differences between the stoves. Have fun making up your mind....See Moregoodguy2k2k, Did you finish your Conestoga cabinets?
Comments (16)barlowmom, I'm about to buy a very similar Conestoga inset shaker cabinet. Can you tell me, how have yours weathered these last 2 years? Do the doors line up well in the frames? Do the drawers sag or stay solid in place? How about the paint finish, is it secure? Thank you!...See MoreStill unhappy with BS- $2K to redo :(
Comments (35)i am all about spending the money to have what you want but sometimes i think we get fixated on things. i think even if you do this there will be something else that will jump out at you. i don't think there's anything wrong with your backsplash and you have a lovely kitchen but i don't have to live with it. how long have you "lived" with it? i had a # of complaints about my kitchen but after living with it a while, i LOVE it. also, a lot depends on styling your kitchen. my kitchen is very white except for our large form marble backsplash and all the "whiteness" was driving me a bit mad but then i realized all these white kitchens in magazines are exactly the same except they've been styled. i added walnut and marble cutting boards against my backsplash, an olive wood salt cellar, flowers etc. and it has made all the difference. you just need to add a little warmth and texture. check out studio mcgee's blog for how to style a kitchen. i do have one little comment though- i don't like the flourescent (or LED?) under cabinet lighting. can you change the bulbs to something warmer? i actually think the blue-white u/c lighting against the b/s is what is distracting....See MoreLoba 2K Supra A.T. coating questions
Comments (44)Actually, I think you might be fine to move forward with your final 2 coats of Loba 2K Supra AT (for 3 coats total). One of the exceptions to this is if you need something to prevent side bonding with your wood. Look up side bonding and then figure out if you think it is going to be a problem for you in your climate. That's the main thing that the WS EasyPrime prevents is side bonding; in addition, it brings out a rich wood color and helps the first coat of Supra AT to go on more evenly. If you like the color that you have now and side bonding is not a huge concern, then you would probably be better off to move forward rather than trying to sand that floor down again as that could create some brand new issues for you. It's probably not the end of the world that you skipped the hardener on the first coat. If anything, it might make the upper two layers a little more prone to impact, but this coating has a lot of flex built into it, and if you can live with the risk, it might be acceptable for your application. If this is an expensive home with a heavy grand piano or big dogs with claws, then reconsider leaving that first coat unhardened. Also, if this is an area where heavy appliances will be moved or set, I would also consider a re-do. Although I've worked a lot with WS EasyPrime and Loba 2K Supra AT, I'm not a professional, and Loba has an excellent customer service department, at least in the USA where I have utilized it, so if you are able to call and talk to a company representative, that would be the best option for professional advice on your situation. You may find it interesting to know that Loba makes a product called 2K InvisibleProtect AT which is designed to be used alone, without primer, in order to keep the wood as natural a color as possible. Some people have had issues trying to apply InvisibleProtect AT without a primer first, but it can be done. The 2K Supra AT is not usually used for this because it does impart more of a darkening effect than the InvisibleProtect AT--therefore primer doesn't take away from the final effect when Supra AT is used, and there are benefits to primer (side bonding prevention mainly), so it is standard procedure to use the WS EasyPrime under Supra AT. Note that Supra AT is overall more durable than InvisibleProtect AT, though both are outstanding finishes....See MoreUser
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