Leave the buds alone and let the fruit set. When the apples get nickle to quarter size thin them out. Start with the smaller ones and bug infested ones. Then move onto whatever else you need to till you have thinned them out by 50-60%. Some apples for whatever reason will grow faster and larger than others which is one reason you want to wait. Another is that the bugs are going to get theirs and its better that they do before you thin them out rather than after.

the guide the local orchard gave me was specific to prune during the first year. this is why I did this. there was specific directions on what to do when, but I didn't do it when I first planted and now I'm not sure if I need to chop the header or what. All I know is that it isn't growing new branches like the other trees are.

The practical advice is the chainsaw in my opinion also, but who that tends this forum is completely practical? I've saved downed trees for sentimental customers using a hand wench to lift it if a couple of strong people are inadequate. 3 large eyescrews, heavy wire and duck billed anchors can hold it until it re-establishes a functional root system. Eye screws into the wood are considered the best option these days for long term support. A single strong cedar post can be used as a more permanent support if necessary. Before lifting it reduce the branches to just the minimum framework of the tree shape you want- maybe a quarter of what is there now. On your windy site, I'd use summer pruning to keep trees much more open than that one appears- actually it looks too densely branched for any site. I too am surprised at the root system revealed in the photo but I can't see enough of it from that side to see if there aren't more substantial roots lower down. I wouldn't bother saving that tree, however (on my own property). It just aint anything special and was a rebuilding project when it went over. I'm lousy at fruit identification, especially if I can't see the fruit on the tree on location. I'm actually looking for a fruit identification specialist to use as a consultant. I manage a lot of very old trees that I'm unable to identify.

harleysilo, you are correct about the annual pruning that goes on in orchards. It's a very important part of the yearly maintenance routine. Pruning is something of an art. There are proper places to make cuts on branches in order to get the response that you wish, for one thing. Also, making random cuts without a plan can cause a tree permanent damage. Orchard trees are typically full-dwarf or semi-dwarf...but annual pruning is still required. Most of the trees purchased through catalogs or in nurseries for the last many years would be full- or semi-dwarf. Taking too much off at once can be exceedingly stressful, too. The reasons are numerous, but one of them will be the tree's normal response to topping, which will be an excess of weakly attached growth right at the top. That might very well create just the right set of circumstances that will cause those two co-dominate branches to split right down the middle of the main tree trunk. Truthfully, the tree has a flawed form (those co-dominate trunks) that is bound to split at some point. In an orchard, a tree like that would have been pruned to a single main trunk while still a tiny tree. Or, it would have been turned into kindling. I agree with gardengal about pruning classes. Don't be surprised if your extension service offers something about fruit trees soon! It would surely be worth a phone call. Learning how to prune properly will utterly change your attitude about your woody shrubs and trees. It will be interesting to see what happens with your tree this year. Don't feel bad about jumping in and making mistakes. The learning process, however, can be a fascinating journey.