Oil vs. latex paint for trim

7 years ago

What are the key differences between oil vs. latex for trim and doors? Is oil really the only way to go to get a truly smooth finish?

Can one expect a similarly smooth finish from latex -- and is it reasonable to expect few visible brush marks and little to no texture from a latex finish?

It seems that what constitutes a "good" finish is very subjective... would be interested to know what folks think should be "standard" minimum for a high quality application of latex trim and doors. Any photos would be helpful too, if available!

Thank you!

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User

7 years ago

Those cabinets were finished with gloss latex applied with a 1" diameter thin nap roller and a 2" angled brush(for cut in) after a coat of BIN primer.

The doors were removed(trim was also removed and spray painted brushed nickle from a rattle can) and painted flat. The boxes were painted in place.

Several keys to a good paint job. Preparation is the most important. The trim was removed. Everything was washed with water and dish soap solution, rinsed(damp rag) , let dry. A light sanding to knock down the build up from the trim/doors being varnished together and a coat of BIN applied with the 1" diameter roller.

Why a 1" diameter roller rather a larger type? Air bubbles. Or rather the absence of air bubbles. Seems counter to do that, but the smaller roller actually is faster.

Technique is the next area. Those smaller rollers also minimize roller lines, which show up after the paint is applied. Primer often looks terrible when applied. As long as the coverage is complete, the visual look is unimportant. No roller lines, no blobs, and no bare spots. That is where the technique is important. Wet edges allow the primer(or paint) to mix seamlessly. Starting a row in the middle, ending with rolling form one end to the other. Never start a roll in the field after the initial application. You can end in the field by pulling the roller up off the surface, but starting leaves a mark.

In the example of those kitchen cabs, once a door was primed and painted, the door was inspected by looking at an angle(with a light) to insure the surface was completely smooth. By doing that, you can see any imperfections.

Good primer and correct primer application makes any paint look better.

Don't over roll and especially don't over brush. The more you roll over an area, the more chance something bad will happen. Trust the paint. Good paint will self level to a point. Very shallow brush lines with disappear with good paint.

I favor man made brushes. Purdy is my usual. Brushes are designed to hold paint inside the bristles. Overloading a brush lessens the ability of the brush to load and apply the primer/paint. There is usually no need to have more than 2" of paint(end of bristles up) on the brush. Less is more. That is why the technique is so important.

Using a roller is usually easier than using a brush because the roller applies more material per pass. With the correct application technique, there is little visual difference between the two ways of applying material.

Spraying is an entirely different process. The only similarity is the material is either primer of paint. Everything else is different. Except for the wet edge and over application factors. I do not recommend DIYers try spraying interior finishes. Way too much prep(covering everything(including floors) and a lot of experience with the spraying equipment.

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Comments (10)

dan1888
7 years ago
If you have latex as a primer or existing you can't use oil over it.
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Hey Cajun, If you keep doin' your perfect prep, & use a TOP-NOTCH 100% Acrylic-Latex, you'll have some of the best/durable trim in town! * Even in the last 5 yrs., Latexes have improved incrementally...over already very good product. * The best Latexes now, IMO, have made 99% of Oils obsolete. * You may also want to check out Cabinet-Coat by Insl-X; or the brand-new Cabinet & Trim paint at ACE stores. * These paints level exceptionally well, are tough, & very washable. This ACE Cabinet-paint is 50-state VOC-legal right out of the gate. Because of this ACE is dropping all of their interior Oils...they're now obsolete. * As always, use the best tools you can afford! Sooooo...No Worries about Latex-yellowing. Rock-on with what you're doin'! Michael has said it in the past too...there's no legitemate reason for Interior Oils anymore. Faron
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Thanks, brushworks! It's a lot of work removing all the paint -- we have tried a whole arsenal of scrapers, blades, drill attachments, and chisels -- and I'd hate to go through all that again. I live in the Pacific Northwest, and unfortunately there appears to be no Muralo dealers within 25 miles. Do you have any experience with Benjamin Moore primers? I like working with them.
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PRO
Joseph Corlett, LLC
7 years ago
Modern latex paints expand and contract much better than oil base paints. Oil is old school; time to move on.
Emmi J thanked Joseph Corlett, LLC
klem1
7 years ago
What he ^^^^said,modern water soluble paints have made oil obsolete. There's actually some water soluble modified oil paints that are great. As Mac said,application actually has more to do with good results than type of paint.
Emmi J thanked klem1
User
7 years ago
Case in the point made by klem and Joseph. When I painted those cabinets, the first gallon was oil based(mistake in where the can was shelved at the store). The manager at the store assured me the water based would look as good as that oil based.

So, there is both kinds on those cabinets---and even I cannot tell where the dividing lines are.
Emmi J thanked User
rwiegand
7 years ago
Perhaps I'm a luddite, but I like oil enamel. The latex I've used has never dried as hard, and with the addition of Penetrol, I have an easier time getting a nice brushed out surface. I like the look of very subtle brush strokes, I'm not going for a flat, featureless surface. There are better ways to accomplish that than any brushed or rolled on coating.

My impression of the relative hardness and durability of the surface is purely anecdotal, I suppose I should look for actual data. 20-30 years ago latex enamels were sad indeed, and I may be carrying a bias forward from very bad experiences.
Emmi J thanked rwiegand
User
7 years ago
I learned to paint from pro's. That was over 30 years ago. Oil based was king. Over the years, I had enough painting work(my own places as well as clients) and began learning about latex(water based) paints.

At one point, oil based alkyd enamel was the toughest roller/brush applied product available. It was difficult to apply, but hard as a rock and almost impervious to moisture damage. I built several over the toilet cabinets about 20 years ago using one by twelve pine that are still in use today. Oil based BIN with oil based alkyd enamel.

Those kitchen cabinets I linked have both types of Sherwin Williams Pro alkyd enamel. The first gallon was evidently a left over can of oil base, since the subsequent gallons were water based.

The difference? Curing time was longer for the oil based. Application was a little different as the oil base was thicker.

End result? After the full curing time, there is no difference I can see.
Emmi J thanked User
PRO
Christopher Nelson Wallcovering and Painting
7 years ago
Quote from above "If you have latex as a primer or existing you can't use oil over it." No truth to this statement what so ever.
Emmi J thanked Christopher Nelson Wallcovering and Painting
Carlos Flores
7 years ago
I think up until maybe 10 years ago, the oil vs. waterborne was worth fighting. Since that time, there really is no challenge. The new waterborne alkyd hybrids have the best of both worlds. They cure to a hard, smooth and durable finish. These include BM Advance, SW Proclassic Waterborne, PPG Breakthrough. There are others, but these are probably the most common to professional painters.

No offence, but it sounds like you have not had a painting project in a while?

Please don't use "latex" paint for door and trim: these are meant for walls and ceilings. They are soft and rubbery-feeling on trimwork.
Emmi J thanked Carlos Flores
Emmi J
Original Author
7 years ago
Thank you, everyone, for your helpful input!

HandyMac, your cabinets are beautiful.

Yes, it's been a while since I've had a painting project, and I'm not a pro. The painters that were working on my house kept trying to blame a poor finish on my desire to use water-based vs. oil -- and your input helps confirm this simply should not be the root of the problem. (It's frustrating that I still at times feel that some contractors feel they can get away with things like that since I am a single woman.)

It appears my problems indeed were with the application rather than the product.

I have since terminated the original painters on the project and am talking to someone who can help fix the textured finish the previous painters have now left on the trim.

Thanks again!

Oil vs. latex paint for trim

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dan1888

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