Picture?

Do you have a contract? Have you made your payment in full?

Caulk is not the answer, but it's never too late to fix an error like this. They've removed tiles before. They'll have to remove them again.

If the edge of the tile is flush with the edge of the upper cabinet, I'd get a narrow piece of 1/4" thick trim, paint it to match the wall color, and glue/tack it up against the edge, similar to the schluter edge, but you wouldn't need to disturb the tile, and it's probably cheaper. If you have crown at the top, use a utility knife to shave the corner of the trim piece to fit. Quick illustration:

Hope pictures help.
No contract, my bad – my very bad. Never again, I have learned my
lesson! Not made final payment, however contractor is showing signs of being
less than honorable. Like wooden schluter-like
edge idea. I used same idea in previous
house & like it very much. However,
will need to remove & replace row of tile at desk under window as there
just is not enough room below radius on sill.
Handmade tile is thicker than ¼”.
I will need to find match for quarter-sawn oak cabinets & stain. I have some leftover ½” wide by ¼” deep wooden
trim that will match the island area without having to remove the mosaic. I can lay it flat on the wooden area &
overlap the ugly end of the tile with the radius end of the wooden trim. Because it is only 1/4” deep it is too thin
for the desk area. Let me know what you
think?

Is this kind of shoddy work and no communication with contractor
common?

More Pics.

The pretty pics. The desk was supposed to have mosaic too. :-(

This level of workmanship is not the norm, but neither is hiring folks without a contract. It'll work out in the end. Don't pay them until everything's fixed.

Ok, well, it could be worse, right? The mosaic looks great. In non-wet areas like the desk, you could use wood trim. If it abuts your wall, I'd paint the trim your wall color. But the desk is the easy location. You might even be able to find pencil tile trim thin enough to use at Lowes or Home Depot. But if you're going to remove a row of tiles there anyway, just install a real Schluter edge and put them right back up.

The tougher issue is the sink area - but the area is so small it should be a relatively easy fix. They must remove the outside tiles, smooth the substrate area down so that the tiles when replaced are plumb with the rest of the run, cut the tiles and lay them again with bullnose trim.

If I make this sound easy, please know that every tile removed could possibly break, and the thinset mortar on the back of each tile has to be removed, probably with a multimaster (same oscillating tool they'll want to use to remove the tile from the substrate). It's always time consuming fixing a mistake.

Oh gosh, there's drywall behind those sink tiles, right? They didn't tile onto wood, did they?

Yes there is drywall behind the sink tiles. The cabinet guy just put the cabinet skin on right up to the edge of the tile area. I guess the cabinet guy thought we had bullnose. The tile is handmade with glaze that is very hard to match. It takes 2 to 4 weeks to order more from Pratt & Lawson in Portland plus shipping time from Portland OR to Phoenix AZ. And with handmade tiles the glaze will probably NOT match exactly. But that is not a bad thing really.

I dont know if you can tell from the pics but the tile under the window goes right up to the sill raduis. Even a pencil thin tile or wood trim would stick out too far. The installers were just too lazy to cut the tile in the top row. So the whole top row, all the way around, will need to be removed, new pieces cut, and replaced. I have plenty of extra tile due to the contractor ordering 25 SF extra at $272 extra non-refundable charge (handmade). Which I paid up front to the tile store. Should I ask the contractor to pay this back?