Matt, what did you use to rid scale? Baby shampoo or a chemical insecticide? Chemicals are dangerous. Especially if used indoors. Since you're in NY, you either sprayed inside or hauled outdoors to apply..Or did you use systemic? I once killed a Gardenia tree by using a harsh chemical, even though, the tree was outside, and I followed directions to a T. Ironically, branches blackenedd and tree died..Not from scale, but the chemical itself, since it died the day after applying insecticide. I spray citrus with Fish Emulsion, in autumn, before bringing indoors..FE prevents and kills scale on contact. If you find Fish Emulsion replusive, (it has a fishy smell that lasts about 2 days, but they now sell an odorless type) there are other oils such as Neem. Artificial light will certainly help, but in your case, I doubt low light is/was the cause of your lemon's problems. Stop fertilizing..For one thing, as you stated, light is low..Citrus go into a semi-dormancy..They need a rest period..If light is low, plants slow down, therefore, adding fertilizer can cause spindly growth. Also, when a plant is undergoing problems, disease/insects, it is advised to stop adding fertilizer. If anything, in early fall, add a slow-release, low NPK type. In spring, or when growth is spotted, start your regular feeding program. I disagree the Baby Shampoo did any damage. How much did you use, and what ratio of water? One author and tv host, Jerry Baker, recommends cleaning foliage with baby shampoo.. Did you discard the Ficus? Considering it's a bonsai, scale shouldn't be too difficult ridding. For starters, you can hand-pick, unless you're squeamish about bugs..Matt, you're talking to a 'bugophobic,' lol, yet, if I saw scale on a plant, you'd best believe I'd start plucking, though spraying is preferable..lol Prune blackened branches..they will not resort to green. Shake plant to remove dead leaves..Toss leaves in the trash, or burn..which reminds me..if you have other plants, especially neighboring, inspect each carefully..also, isolate plants with scale. Move plants to a cool,(65-68F is fine) airy, humid location..and yes, humidifers help big time..fresh air is also important. If you have a ceiling fan, run on low at least 1 hour a day..it circulates air to a degree. I also use a rotating fan. Matt, do you have a picture to post? If your citrus is managable size, after removing dead leaves, haul to sink or shower, allow water wash leaves..2-4 mins. Hose Ficus too. Matt, I'm an optimist when it comes to plants..only plants, but plants, nonetheless..Some of my plants were bought in what I coined, the 'dead cart' in stores where plants were going to be tossed..In and outdoor plants..I'd never buy an infested plant, no Sir, I'm not that optimistic..lol.. Good luck, Toni If you have any questions, ask away..Please stop fertilizing, and before adding water, check soil, make sure it's dry before giving a drink.

Oh boy. Even this "citrus nurse" is going to struggle, here. Okay, first off, let's get rid of all that grass under the tree. This poor tree is struggling enough as it is for nutrients, but the grass is simply using up any Nitrogen that might be made available to this tree's feeder roots. So, clear a very large circle under the tree. For this tree, I would suggest twice the drip line (edge of the canopy). Mike is right - paint the trunk white, never black. This may be the cause of the issue - you may have literally cooked the cambium layer with black paint. It is customary to use flat latex house paint cut in 1/2 with water to paint tree trunks. I would definitely try re-painting the trunk. The dog's damage may have girdled the tree, in which case nothing we tell you to do will save the tree. This tree is too small to have this many dead branches requiring pruning, so that clearly should be a clue something is drastically wrong. The leaves appear to be burnt. If you're applying any kind of oil to the leaves, you must make sure your outdoor temps do not exceed 35 degrees F (29 degrees Celsius), or you'll risk burning the leaves. Again, spiders are the "good guys". If you're referring to spider mites, that's an entirely different insect, and is often a sign of a stressed tree. Find out what insect you think is a spider, and get it ID'ed so you know whether or not you're dealing with a pest or a beneficial. CLM can be treated with Spinosad, with or without a hort oil added in (depending upon your air temps). You should be able to find it where you live. Be sure to use Spinosad in the later evening, when the bees have gone back to the hive, as Spinosad can kill bees. Spray every 3 weeks, 3 applications during your CLM season. You can use a hort oil to help the product stick better, but only if your air temps are low enough. Lastly, back to the watering issue. It looks awfully wet in the soil. We need to know what kind of soil you have. Is it clay, loam, sand, DG? You say you "water occasionally". Is this tree getting hit by lawn sprinklers? If so, that is certain death for citrus. They don't like their trunks constantly hit with water. It will damage the bark and leave the tree open for all kinds of fungal infections. If you're watering by hand, you want the roots to receive a good, deep (to about 18 - 24", or 7 to 10 cm) watering once to three times a week, depending on your ambient temps, humidity and type of soil. Check to make sure the tree actually needs to be watered, before you water it, so you can gauge your soil's water retention. I just use a cheap green plastic-covered plant stake, and push it into the ground. For me being on DG, if I can't push it in at all, my soil is dry (turns into cement when dry). If I can push it in, and the stake comes out moist, I'm good. You're heading into Fall now, but I think you can still get away with another application of fertilizer. Use a good quality citrus fertilizer with the proper NPK ratio (citrus require a lot of nitrogen, so you'll see the N will be higher than the PK, the best ratio is 5:1:3 in general for citrus), with the full complement of micronutrients as well (Ca, Zn, Mg, Mn, Fe). Stay in touch with your local gardening center, someone who knows citrus. Let us know how your little tree fares. I'm a little concerned about all the damage. I'm not sure if it is just how the tree is being managed, or if we're looking at something more serious, like a virus or infection of some sort. The good news - citrus are very resilient. Let's see if some better management allows the tree to spring back. It may take until next spring until you see some serious recovery, so be patient. And, remove all the fruit for now. Your tree cannot possibly support fruit production, it needs to use all its energies into recovery. Patty S.

With some of the potting mixes used, or if your tree was a bit root bound, it may be that while watering the tree may be wetting the surrounding soil, the root mass itself could be bone dry. Scratch away a bit of soil and have look at the root ball. It's alway a good idea to thoroughly wet any container plant before planting out - immerse the whole pot in a bucket of water and give it a bit of a soak. If you aren't on water restrictions (like us), and the root ball looks dry, perhaps you could set a hose on a very slight drip and position it close to the trunk. A couple of days of drip irrigation might revive your tree. You can also set up a temporary drip system with a plastic drink bottle. Put a small hole in the bottom, fill with water and adjust the lid so that the water drips out very slowly.

I'm going to say it may likely be a combination of several factors. The air coming out of the heating vent is going to be very dry, this is not good for the leaves. To try to compensate, you were likely adding too much water. It is good to have the soil moist, but that is a small container and too much water can begin to cause root rot. I also think your little tree needs more light. You might consider putting a little mulch over the soil, just to help prevent it from drying out. Use less water but water more frequently. Consider getting a lamp stand with an LED grow light to leave on when you are not there.