Hi everyone! and thanks in advance to anyone that replies! Hi, and welcome to the discussions! I'm on a super tight gardening budget this year - and by super tight I mean the only way I'll be getting flowers/plants for my container garden is from taking cuttings/seeds from what I already have and what my friends/family are willing to let me take little "snips" of. Anybody with cash can go buy a truckload of beautiful blooms - even have someone plant and care for them. What you want to do takes love, patience, consistent effort, forethought, determination, and IMO, can be extremely satisfying. I'm fairly new to propagating from cuttings - I have Purslane and Blue Daze (Evolvus) down pat, but I don't know what type of cutting and when to take them from ... pretty much anything else, I don't know if it's even possible to take cuttings from some stuff. Here's a list of the plants I have at my "snipping" disposal - Here's my experiences with some of your list... Clematis ... I had 'the president' but it pooped out the first day it was 100 degrees - boo) Clems like to be in full sun with their roots cool. Next time, try placing a potted plant so that it shades your clem roots during the hottest part of the day. This may help it get going. Remove flowers after the petals fall off so the plant does not waste any energy making seeds. Clems take a few years to establish. They make seeds but it is uncertain if seeds will make the same flowers as the parent plant. Mulch is very helpful for Clems. Balloon flower (platycodon grandiflorus - just the regular one and P.g. 'Mariesii') - makes seeds that are ready when the seed pods develop openings at the top. A long-lived perennial. Hosta (32 jillion varieties) - divisions as soon as the summer heat passes or early spring. Hostas live for a LONG time. Columbine - makes seeds that are ready when the seed pods develop openings at the top. Individual plants are short-lived perennials. Canna (My grandpa is going to mow over them if I don't come dig them up this weekend - can you move them any time or will they just die? Most of his don't have flowers and I don't know if it's because he doesn't water or if it's because he mows over them almost every year - can you grow them in containers?) - makes tubers that can be moved about any time. If grandpa mows them, no big deal. I think the ground (vs. in a pot) is preferable for anything perennial in your zone. Try to put them somewhere where they won't be soggy all winter but will get plenty of water in the summer. Mowing and/or lack of water could both lead to lack of flowers. You can cut large tubers in half to make more, and each year the tubers get bigger and make "pups." They also make seeds but people don't always have an easy time trying to get these seeds to sprout. A long-lived perennial as long as the tubers don't rot in the winter. Jasmine (not sure on variety, it may have...

I dig a trench about 3 inches deep if that will accommodate the root ball or just enlarge the end where you are putting the root ball and lay the rest of the stem in the trench and cover with soil. Of course you can dig the trench deeper if you'd like but at least 3in deep. The top of the plant should not be covered, of course, and I prop up the top with a small nursery pot until it starts growing, usually a week or so. I got a great deal on a bull's heart which was pot bound in a tiny pot and so leggy and tall the stem could not support it, I planted it as I described and it is now healthy and has several beautiful tomatoes on it, not yet ripe. You do have to be careful where you dig after you plant a tomato this way and I water this tomato differently then my others, making sure I water over the whole stem area. I always mark the area with something to remind me where the stem is to I don't forget and dig a hole and ruin the tomato. Yeah, it is a good technique for the really tall and spindly tomatoes.

That is not jade (Crassula ovata) but Kalanchoe blosfeldiana. Succulents should not be grown or rooted in water (even if some pp do, it is not recommended). Most will rot. Just as they do if in soil that is too wet - as you discovered:..."Too much water and the roots looked like they were rotting"... This Kalanchoe is very easy plant to grow. Pot it up in well draining mix, and it should root. Btw, they will grow also very easily from leaves. I would trim piece of the stem off where either line shows. Let it callus for few hours and pot it up: Make mix of Cactus and Succulent soil and sited perlite, mixing them 1:1 to get good drainage. Here is cutting, similar to yours, potted:Rocks you see are there just to support plant/cutting until roots start growing and anchor it. It is best not to water cuttings without roots, since they can't take in any water and may start rotting if stems sit in wet soil. Put it in bright place but not strong sun, and wait to water until you see new growth - that is usually when roots start growing. Or you can gently tug on it after a while - if there are roots growing, you'll feel some resistance. But do not try looking for roots by digging it up :) It should root in couple of weeks or so. You may see plant growing some air roots from the stem - Kalanchoes often do.

Most any vegetable that is normally planted as a transplant rather than direct seeded that I can think of can be transplanted deeper - peppers, eggplant, broccoli, cauliflower, kohlrabi, lettuces, spinach, etc. Even some normally direct seeded ones can be transplanted deeper - beans and corn come to mind. Not that all will develop roots along the stem but they do get other benefits from deeper planting besides that - soil temps, stem support, better water retention, etc. Here are some of the previous discussions of this questions you can browse through. http://www.gardenweb.com/gardenweb/query/what-do-you-transplant-deep/topic=cornucop Dave