I am just checking out hypertufa for the first time, so I can't give any advice on this subject...but I am an artist and the cheapest person I know and a big DIY'er. So, I say, if you have an idea that you really want to try...maybe try it....or do like I do, and get an idea, have the husband tell you it's an insane plan and then do tons of research and alter the idea a bit and then try it. I do a lot of crazy things...my husband thinks I am crazy, the neighbors definitely think I'm crazy, but in the end, I usually come out with some pretty cool things after a lot of time and effort. I get a lot of satisfaction from the many ideas that try. (I need to slow down on it, really, because I have too many projects on the go.) But, basically, what I am trying to say, is yes, (as my husband says) it's good to be reasonable and consider if all the time and effort is going to really save you in the end, but, it's soooo fun to try these things and then see what you can come up with. I say if you can get the materials cheap enough, you don't loose much but time. It's fun to be able to show other people after and they are amazed your crazy idea worked, they'll want to know how you did it and you get to tell the story about how YOU created a work of art.

My system works well for my needs. Unfortunately, I am not learned on picture posting - but will try to be as coherent as possible. My planters look similar to yours - I also have 9 in all. My only regret is that we didn't make them all the same size, life would have been easier - as far as the cages were concerned, best to have 2 for each box. I built PVC pipe frames - 2 frames to a box. The materials are readily available from Home Depot. The pipe is the usual kind used for moving water - about 1/2 inch size. The 3-sided corner fittings need to be 1/2 in. as well, and 8 are needed total. For each corner an adapter is needed because one side of the 3 corner piece is threaded (bummer), and a slide in adapter is necessary (not always easy to find). Also needed is a plastic pipe cutter (Home Depot), chicken wire, wire cutters, wire or rope for securing wire to pipe. The cages are about 3 feet high and covered with chicken wire - secured all around the pipe with wire/rope - leaving about 6 inches near the top to reach inside the cage and open at the bottom. Building the cage is not difficult, except for the corners - where the 3 cornered adapter is needed on each corner to secure the slide-in pieces together. (one side of the 3-cornered piece comes threaded - that's why). A quick glance will explain it. I didn't glue my cages - but plastic pipe cement can be used for that. Another piece of chicken wire can be cut for the top - I don't secure it - but I can drape fabric on top and around the cages - when planting young seedlings for extra protection and for weather protection. This is secured with either clips (ordered with the cloth) or with clothes pins. These cages work well for me. If all of the boxes are not in use at once, it is possible to move these cages from one place to another where needed - very light weight or removed entirely if plants aren't in need of protection. I also have used old rabbit cages - for smaller areas. These have bottoms taken out and are easy to move around. They were originally made with hardware cloth (Home Depot), simply by attaching end pieces together with wire clips onto the main body of the cage. The cages are simple to make, rolling out hardware cloth to size, bend to form edges and clip together. The sides need cutting to fit the main frame, and clipped. But I do like the PVC cages, and they hold up well year after year. But I would advise having the planters all the same size, to facilitate their use from one box to another. Just my 2 c's. Bejay

If I am not mistaken you are in Colorado so I have the folowing questions.. what would you be growing in your 'grand' coldframes? How late or early into the winter? lettuce/spinach are low growers...why so high?

I'm not familiar with midwest weather Randy but in North Tx I must plant at the very earliest date after frost,plant two weeks early and cover when frost threatens or use cold frames to give plants a head start. The time between last frost and 90 deg F where blossoms no longer set isn't long enough for tomatoes varietes over 70 days. Most people plant two weeks before last frost and cover as needed. The problem with that is if you are delayed in removing covers plants can be shocked or killed from overheating. My answer is in my cold frames. My frames are much taller than conventional. I am both curious and frugal so I repurpous,recycle and experiment at every opertunity. I will explain one frame that you are familiar with so that you can see how I build a frame from scratch. i rescued a supermarket reach in dairy case which is about perfect. I cut a 6" vent near bottom and installed a 3" flexiable hose at top. Hose runs down 18"to connect to a box containing fan from dairy case. The descending hose prevents heat lose by natural convection (warm air rises,cold air drops.) The thermostat has one set of contacts that make on temperature rise above an adjustible 32F to 55F and break as temperature drops which in turn control cooling compressor. There is a secound set of contacts which make and break inverse to first set. When unnessary components were stripped,I retained defrost heaters and connected them to the secound set of contacts which make on temp fall turning heaters on then break when temp reaches 45-50F. Another salvaged t-stat was mounted high in case, internally altered to perform in the 80F range and connected to fan. I save and raid gas station island trash for black oil,trans fluid and anti-freeze jugs. Jugs are filled with weak mix of water/anti-freeze then placed inside case where solar heat is stored then released during night to miniumize energy used by defrost heaters. A chime is connected parallel with heaters and a buzzer with fan to allow me to dial them in. Plants sit near top in colder weather then decend to lower shelves as they grow and weather milds. When plants are removed from flats they go into 1 gallon pots. Cumulativly, years tinkering has shown as cu ft space inside frame increases, maintaining temperature becomes increasingly easier. Gallon pots ease moisture and nutrient maintainance, reduce transplant shock and alow plants to hit the ground running. I hope this was relivant to your question.