Living wage growing pains
Mimou-GW
7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago
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Humility and patience are painful lessons
Comments (20)As you all know, I 'm not an assiduous forum follower,but seeing as Campanula, like me, seems to be trying to do a very big project on a very small budget, I though I'll throw in my 2 cents. I think the sooner you manage to swallow the Reality Pill, the better it'll be for your wallet. I've wasted an awful lot of money (and worse yet, time and energy) in the 16 or so years that I've been working on transforming a part of my land into a garden. First, it took a while to realize that gardening in the wilds just is too different from gardening in "garden soil"! I'm beginning to think that , for example, direct sowing of seeds may well be impossible for me, at least for several more years,just because there's too much competition from weeds (not to mention brambles and broom and vitalba...)One of the reasons I got so into roses in the first place was that they can hold thier own in some pretty rough terrain. In fact, I'm still at the stage where my focus will remain on woody plants,shrubs and trees. I myself never used herbicide; I always figured that that it was as bad as it's brother "cides",insecti and fungi. I tamed areas of deep bramble jungle by chopping the plants down, and covering them with thick black plastic sheet for a year or so. This year, I'm FINALLY focusing on doing a real mulch job on as much of the cultivated area as I can,using cardboard covered with organic stuff. I'm hoping that over the summer this will tame the weeds enough so that next fall, I'll be able to plant out some perennials among the roses. Eventually I'd love to underplant with perennials as a living mulch... I hope this doesn't sound discouraging; I don't mean it to be so. I think you'll definitely be able to do this, Campanula. I don't follow your threads that much (so please forgive any impertinence), but I gather that your DH and son do help you,and probably in England I imagine that you don't have to worry as much about drought and watering young plants as I do here in Tuscany,so you have several advantages going for you! I guess if I were you, I'd just focus on one small area for my first years' garden,cultivating that, whilst surrounding areas that I was plannig to incorporate into the garden in future I'd begin taming with the chopping/black plastic technique (or whatever other thick screening material you canfind or buy cheaply). Tru, it's not pretty to look at,but you can avoid poisons that way. For the first year or so, you get your Gardening Jollies working on the small cultivated plot, and planning what you'll do with the part that's "cooking" under the plastic. Then, next year or the following, you pull up the covering and can go to it on a larger scale, recycling the covering to do a subsequent area, etc. Good luck,and try not to get too discouraged. "Rome wasn't built in a day" to coin a phrase, lol...bart...See MoreREVIEW: Growing Pains by Patricia Thorpe
Comments (3)It does have some basic info, but some people (some of them are landscapers, too) need to be told it seems that not every plant is purchased, that age can be a good thing. We have WAAAY too many clowns around here that come in and hack everything to the ground and then haul in the black nursery pots (in the Garden District, mind you, where there are such wonders as thirteen foot high boxwood TREES, not to mention the oaks which will die if too many roots are cut while you put in that pool that you'll never swim in.)...See Moremaking a living wage.
Comments (54)You CAN move that size tunnel. You will have to set the bows at 4' spacing, to deal with snow load. The bows will need additional bracing for the move, both horizontal and diagonal, so that you have a rigid triangulation that can not deform if the pulling forces aren't exactly straight. There are several systems that have been designed - posts with roller bearings on top, with the tunnel riding on the bearings, or wheels attached to the bows and riding on some kind of track are the most common. You'll want the rigid foam insulation to be just outside the track, not below it, to minimize conductive heat loss. You will also want a double plastic wall on the sides with a third sheet of plastic to bury in the soil wherever the winter position is. You also need some serious ground anchors, at every position, that bolt directly to the frame of the house on the inside. The link below will take you to what I consider the best design I've seen so far - low friction, easy to install and secure, but not cheap. Here is a link that might be useful: V-Track movable tunnel...See MoreHow grow St Augustine grass under live oaks ?
Comments (17)I have a large area prone to erosion under a huge Arizona ash, under which is complete shade. I needed something to fill in fairly quickly. I've got Kimberly Queen Fern (I think that's it). It borders on invasive the second year, but I need it to be there. It doesn't mind a little standing water, loves the shade, and just leaving the leaves there to rot works just fine as far as feeding it. If we go through a long dry spell, I water a little bit (I run a sprinkler for a hour every other week), but that's it. It's not that hard to control, either--just dig up or pull. I got mine pulled up from a friend's garden, not even in dirt and in a five gallon bucket that sat out for two days. I put down twenty five "plugs" and now I'd estimate the crowd at about 150 ferns. I've also had what I think is called mondo grass under there. It's the common variety, came with the house (I don't care for it, so I pulled most of it up.), but was thick and lush and happy. In the shade, it's very dark, almost black. Caladiums are fun in shade, but I have to either dig them up or replant every year, as they rot down here in 9. My other ground cover is an undesirable....Indian strawberry...I swear that stuff will take over the world....See MoreMimou-GW
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoUser
7 years ago3katz4me
7 years agoUser
7 years ago
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