I have a few comments to add to the discussion: First, I think there was a comment above in reference to an oft-times repeated myth with respect to orchid cultivation. Orchids don't prefer to have their roots crowded in a small pot, and can't tell the difference with the way their roots are otherwise oriented -- be it a small pot, or a tree trunk. The reason that this "myth" continues to be circulated, is that the size of the pot used has bearing on the moisture level maintained at the roots. If one is careful, any size pot can be used to cultivate a given orchid, as long as the medium used doesn't keep the roots too wet, or prevent them from drying out periodically. Similarly, if one's growing area provided ideal conditions, this species could be grown bare root hanging on a hook. Regarding the overall size, and blooming size of Angcm. sesquipedale, I have seen plants with a couple blooms each, only 10-12" tall or so. There is a subspecies, Angcm. sesquipedale var. angustifolium, and it is possible that this plant has been cloned and sold alongside the larger primary species. (Nurseries may not know what stock they are selling.) I could probably discern the two if they were side by side, but otherwise it might be difficult if the plants were the same size. Var. angustifolium has narrower leaves. With respect to the issue of root disturbance, as long as roots are not broken, or pried off of the side of a pot, or pieces of attached medium twisted free, repotting is not a problem. If a plant is in a plastic pot, it is usually an easy matter to lift the whole root ball, etc., out of the pot, and rotten medium tapped away with a pencil or finger. The medium you choose has more to do with your humidity, air movement, and watering habits, than a specific preference of the plant. Finally, sesquipedale will survive for a time -- and even bloom -- if kept "hot," or grown alongside vandas. But it will not thrive, and may slowly decline, taking as much as a couple of years to expire. The maximum summertime temp should not exceed 90F (only acceptable for brief periods), preferably not more than 85F, and there should be a nighttime differential of 10-15F. Also, as with other angraecoids, they can tolerate quite cool nighttime temps when they are in their winter dormancy. My collection is generally maintained with winter lows 50-55F, with a handful of occasions into the 40s, and even a 38 or 39 for an hour or two, occasionally. I have never had a light meter that inspired confidence in me. I would call the best light level for Angcm. sesquipedale as between "bright phal" and "shady cattleya." The only time too much light will be a critical issue is when growing outdoors, or in a gh. Indoors, it can probably take all the light you can give it from an artificial source...just be careful of stray sunbeams through a window. As noted above, this species is prone to sulking. If you are purchasing one, be very careful where it's coming from, as I learned from experience. If your conditions tend towards warm, do not buy one from a Hawaiian nursery. The shock of adjustment is too great for this species to handle and survive. (If you maintain your plants in a gh, there are nurseries that grow and sell this species with temps that approach the upper 90s, and these are the best plants to purchase...as they have been acclimatized.) Make sure the nursery is similar in conditions to your own. -Bruce

Ang. sesquipedale This is a hot growing species from the island of Madagascar that has 1 to 6 fragrant blooms in the winter on shorter than the leaves, 12" [30 cm] long, bracteate, axillary inflorescence and is found at altitudes of 100 meters or less on sloping tree trunks and crotches of trees near the seashore and it is consistantly warm and has abundant rainfall year round that produce large, waxy, long-lived, fragrant flowers through the winter and is an evergreen epiphyte that needs even water and fertilizer and thrives if given ample air circulation. It has the common name of the 'Comet Orchid'. It has rarely straight, many leafed stems with distichous, ligulate, coriaceous, unequally bilobed apically leaves. This species was made famous by Charles Darwin's prediction that there would be a pollinator aout there that could reach to the bottom of the extremely long spur in the back of the flower. His prediction cam e true with the discovery of a long-tongued hawk moth, Xanthopan morganii praedicta years later. The above came from Jay Pfahl's site. The other parent was not listed. It might itself be a hybrid and therefore outside the scope of his species listings. In any case a hybrid, even a complex one cannot be killed by following what is known to be good culture for one of its parents. I don't know how far you will get trying to duplicate the climate of the island of Madagascar in your home but there you are. Luckily, it does not really require that you do. It sounds like you have a nice plant there. Good luck with it. Remember that we are here and ask or post with comments early. Don't wait until two leaves are dead. If even one starts to yellow or otherwise go off that is warning enough that something is out of kilter. Better yet, why not tell us right now what conditions you are/can provide for it. H

Christina, some of the key differences between CFL bulbs that fit any old light socket, and T5HO fixtures with long tubes is how the power and light is distributed. CFLs are twisty, which means the light goes in all directions, and in particular is not primarily projected out the "front" when plugged into a socket. In addition the CFL bulbs have an internal balast/driver to power them, which has to be small and cheap - so it is also usually not very efficient. This means it'll make a bunch of heat together with the light you want it to produce (every light does this, some more than others tho). T5HO fixtures usually have a reflector stretched all the way along one side of the long straight bulbs, so more light ends up going where you want and need it. The fixtures are also usually bigger, and the balast is separated from the bulbs with less size constraints so they are often more efficient (less heat for same amount of light, and -maybe- better power bills, but unless you have lot of lights running it's probably not very significant). That all said, CFL bulbs are cheap and easy, T5HO fixtures usually require a bit more planning, space, and $$ (however maybe not as many more $ as you assume). They both work pretty well at keeping your plants happy during winter. I started out my first winter shelf with a mishmash of CFL bulbs in hardware store shoplight clippy things, then moved to 2 foot 4 tube T5HO fixtures that fit perfectly with my 24 x 18" shelves a few months later and have been happy with them. But I like to tinker, so I'm always trying new stuff.

I have never used lights, but for a few years now, those of you who do use lights have fascinated me, and often tempted me. And recently, especially starting my seeds, I’ve been hellbent on installing grow lights, either in my eat-in kitchen area or in my garage. Since seeds are merely a springtime 5-7 week activity for me, I couldn’t justify the cost since I only plant what we can cook with and share with friends and neighbors, but providing better and more consistent light to my succulents or cuttings/propagations when not growing seeds sounds enticing. So I know nothing about lights, but this is what I am considering (and it’s probably priced and marketed to someone just like me, haha): https://www.gardeners.com/buy/t5-grow-light-stand-three-shelves/39-357.html It’s a little overkill for me in terms of space if it’s just seedlings, where I’d really only need one shelf, but if it’s for the succulents, OK. I googled separate components first but by the time I have my boyfriend rig it to work in a similar fashion and putting holes in ceilings (and potentially bringing the house down), the cost won’t be all that different if I shoot for three tiers, it seems (or will it?). Besides,I should then be able to dedicate a whole level to microgreens, or temp-sensitive herbs like cilantro, etc. with no consideration for season and outside temperature, no? What I don’t know is whether the lights are strong/good enough for what I’m wanting, and whether, in your opinions, it’s a fair price for what it offers. If not, can you recommend what I should buy? There seem to be purplish disco light-like gadgets, bulb lights, fluorescent lights, etc. and each claim they’re great. Any guidance you can offer would be appreciated!