"Im pretty sure that most fruit trees are biennial bearers anyways, and dont need a hand in achieving that." Actually it's mostly pome fruits you have to worry about, and of those, apples seem to be the most problematic. I suppose it's possible to induce alternate bearing in some stone fruits (although I've never witnessed it). Alternate bearing is a bigger issue in colder climates where the growing season is shorter. In longer growing seasons, trees have longer to recover and build energy stores, so alternate bearing isn't as common (except with some unmanaged apple trees and nuts).

I did a quick Google search and got this, from the link below - "Bruce" Plums - The plum variety "Bruce" is a hybrid plum produced by crossing a Japanese plum with a member of another plum group, called European plums. A tree that can be 10 to 15 feet tall at maturity, it blooms in early spring, producing masses of small, bright white flowers. Somewhat earlier to ripen than "Methley," "Bruce" plums are usually ready for picking by the start of June. The fruit is especially large and has distinctly red skin and yellow or orange flesh. The variety is generally not self-fruitful and requires a nearby pollinator such as "Methley" or another Japanese-type cultivar for cross-pollination." Here is a link that might be useful: Bruce & Methley Plum trees

I read that even a fruit tree on dwarfing rootstock will tend to grow fairly large unless you prune in late summer to control the size, my trees are all very young still but maybe someone with more experience can comment on that claim. It seems to me that different trees act differently on dwarfing rootstock. I planted a plum, pear, peach and persimmon last spring and after a year of growth they are very different sizes. The peach and persimmon are about the same, the pear is half their size, and the plum is more than twice as tall as any of the others. They are all on dwarfing rootstock. One last thing, I heard that an apricot tree can never truly be dwarfed, is this true? I'm going to plant one next year and I've designated it a spot for a mature size of 25' wide, does that sound about right?

as a tree guy.. i would suggest that you do NOT repeatedly stress the tree .. as in root pruning it ... and then within a month or two.. digging it up ... why double up on its stress level ... root pruning should have been done 1 to 3 years ago ... so when the time comes.. JUST DO IT ... of which you dont say when all this if going to happen.. but let me suggest it HAS TO BE .. while its fully dormant ... is there any chance.. you could procure an actual tree spade???? do you have any experience on actually making a ball and burlap .. after you excavate??? old school tree pruning also suggested canopy reduction at the time of transplant ... that really isnt current thinking... think of every leaf.. as a food making machine.. to grow new roots .. to get your transplant re-established .. so if you go cutting off.. 1/3 or 1/2 of your food making machines.. well.. good luck ... [and this is where fruit peeps may think differently] the real key in all of this.. is SUPREME aftercare ... you must insure DEEP THOROUGH WATERING FOR 2 TO 4 years ... THRU THE WHOLE ROOT ZONE .. AND GOOD MULCHING ... oops.. moving the tree will end up being the least of your problems ... all that said.. a tree is a tree.. you might want to post this in the tree forum ... as these fruit peeps.. get all wrapped up in ... well .. the fruit .. lol .. in my world.. warped as it is .. NO SIX INCH CALIPER TREE IS WORTH THE EFFORT ... i would put the odds of failure at 75% .. IF you were a professional ... unless you spent $1000 to hire a pro to do it.. with all his inherent magic ... and for $100 you could mail order a half dozen sublime named varieties .. known to out-produce your plant.. in your area [local orchards will know which] ... we often get a sentimental attachment.. to things.. that are not worth the effort ... think long and hard.. if this project is really worth it .. all that said.. and in summation.. if this is just an excuse to experiment .. and use big tools.. go for it.. the most you have to lose is some fresh air.. and exercise .. and a tree that is in the way ..... just dont pin your hopes on thinking its easy.. or that the digging and moving is the hard part .. i wait the fruit peeps thoughts... and will defer ... ken ps: if it is some heirloom apple of great personal importance .. i would spend $100 to have some pieces grafted.. its the perfect time of year. .. so that a PART could be saved ... so that if failure happens.. you still have the plant ... you would mail off sticks.. and come fall.. get trees back in the mail ...