My guess is that you don't want to move windows, doors, plumbing etc. I would orient the island so that you have a long island facing the sink and the window. That way, the view from the island is through the window, which will be pleasing. Another option is to put a square shaped island, then you can sit on two sides of the island. L shaped island does not look good, (IMHO) and it will not function well because you will be squeezed in the L. I would move the sink to the left of the window as you look at it so the distance from the sink to frig is reduced. Is your window drawn properly? That is a rather low from the ceiling window. Did there used to be soffits that you are taking out? If you are taking out the soffits and not raising/enlarging the windows, I think it will look odd. You may have to spend some money and raise the window appropriately.... I have a similar L with a center island. Frig/range then to sink. It actually works quite well for me. I don't need/want the water source on the island. The skinny uppers next the hood does not cut it. It needs to be balanced with long horizontal shelves perhaps... I have my speed oven mounted under the counter on the island. It works fine for me. This is not so popular here, however. Kitchen design is a balance of esthetics and function. What functions you accept may not suit another user. Pay attention to what functions/esthetics are important to you not what others think are important to you. 10 years ago, the rage was the two level island. I loved my 1 level island then and I would not budge from the position. Now, one level is more popular I also LOVE my island without a sink on it. Again, not a popular choice. But this works better for me..... Another option for your kitchen, since it is so big is to fill the left side wall (where the frig is) with solid wall of cabinets/frig/pantry/wall oven. Then you have the island and 17 ft counter space to work with. This is a popular European plan. They often fill one of their walls completely.

When using a blind cabinet in the corner, your "magic number" for space out from the corner to the adjoining cabinet is 27". That's where you place the DW in your case. If your cabinets are 24" deep, you should have at least a 3" filler next to the DW. This allows for your DW door to open clear of any handles/knobs. I have to say; in your small space, I'm not a fan of the length of shorter cabinetry above your sink. It looks to be about 48" of shorter cabinetry ( #'S 16 & 17). Unless of course there's a window not pictured in your plan. Also, why are you placing 2 narrow cabinets (#'S 14 & 15) instead of 1 wider cabinet to the right of the range? Not a good use of space nor good use of your $$$ IMHO. Why again are you using 2 narrow cabinets instead of 1 wider to the left of the fridge (#'s 10 & 11)? Surely IKEA must have a wide enough cabinet to fill that space? Keep in mind that you pay for every cabinet. You'll end up paying more for 2 small cabinets rather than 1 wide. The storage space is minimized when using narrow cabinets as well. Yes, your filling the same amount of space but when using narrow cabinets you are creating a barrier between the 2 when you don't need to. Also, why do you have such a narrow 2-drawer cabinet ( # 5) ? 2-drawer cabinets are best suited for bulky items like pots. Are you planning this cabinet to hold tall items like oils? Just seems strange to me. I'm curious if you're working with a KD? Your questions are basic knowledge in kitchen design. If you are, I'd be concerned about the KD's credentials. If you're not, I completely understand the reasons for your questions. No insult intended.

So here are the dimensions specifically pulled from my manual for our soon to arrive counter depth fridge. It specifically shows the side panels for the "built in look" should be 25" deep. That takes into account the 23 7/8" deep fridge plus 1" min airspace clearance. The IKEA panels come in 25" deep (90" long) and 36" deep (96" long) options. I'll likely need to go with the 96" long panel to completely fill in the sides floor to ceiling. The manual is not clear about how far the doors will open with 25" deep panels. Does anyone have personal experience that can confirm how far your doors open with 25" side panels? Direct from the manual: When installing refrigerator adjacent to wall, cabinet or other appliance that extends beyond front edge of unit, 20" minimum clearance recommended to allow for optimum 120° to 180° door swing, providing complete drawer / crisper access and removal. (Absolute 4-1/2" minimum clearance will ONLY allow for 90° door swing which will provide drawer / crisper access with restricted removal.)

@Aglitter good point. My only problem is that IKEA is still more affordable when you start pricing out even used cabinets at ReStore or elsewhere. I like the "unfitted approach" (didn't know that was the term!). Although I don't know if it will be considered "good enough" for renters, if I go that route temporarily. @Diana Bier I agree with you. At the moment, I'm not looking to move the major appliances (that's even more money to move the gas line etc.). But you've given me some great ideas if I go through with a more serious remodel in a few years. In fact, I think I could squeeze in a second bathroom where the sink wall is atm, move side walls forward and back walls into the porch are, and have a cute and sizeable galley kitchen. Thanks for the ideas!