Moro blood orange planted 1/8/2017
evdesert 9B Indio, CA
7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago
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evdesert 9B Indio, CA
7 years agoPKG
7 years agoRelated Discussions
Moro Navel Blood orange?
Comments (7)First, don't think you can judge ripeness of the Moro by skin blush. That actually occurs due to divergences in temps. So, you'll see that the oranges on the north side of your tree will be more blushed than those on the warmer, south side :-) In my area of the country, Moros are ripe between December and February. And yes, navels are natural mutations. You'll see them pop up now and then. Watch that branch. Place a marker or ribbon on it and see if that branch continues to "sport" navel Moros. If so, you've got a sport branch that can then be grafted to produce an entire Moro navel orange tree :-) Oranges with navels tend to be seedless/nearly seedless, which is always a perk when eating fruit out of hand. Here is an interesting article about the Navel orange and how they came about. Patty S. Here is a link that might be useful: NPR: Who Put the Navel in the Navel Orange...See MoreMoro Blood Orange
Comments (15)Kim & Connie, First, Connie, your sunburn is due to a couple of things - new plant having new flush sort of on the late side, due to being planted a little late in the season for you, and being very well treated :-) For you all in hot, hot AZ, your best bet is to plant your citrus early - late winter, and allow the flush to occur during your more cooler temp times. Not fatal though, and your tree will recover, especially since you're giving it a lot of shade. And, the cinder block behind it is also a two edged sword - the bad is that it is reflecting additional sunlight, contributing to the sunburn. The good is it will retain warmth and protect your citrus during the winter. Just so you know :-) The Moro will do well in your area, and you will get very nicely colored and sweet oranges due to your temp swings, so just keep it shaded, well watered and well fertilized. Kim, you do want to make sure you're watering at least twice a week or maybe more often depending on your heat, the amount of available rain, as well as the type of soil (well draining versus clay). And, you should be fertilizing with a good citrus fertilizer that contains micronutrients. You'll want to fertilize new citrus every 2 to 3 months throughout your main growing season. For me here in Calif, that's about February through October. I believe there is a great product especially formulated for AZ soils. I want to say it's called, "Arizona's Best", but don't hold me to that, as I'm in S. Calif. Check you high quality garden centers or citrus nurseries and they can tell you. Or, your local county extension office. Citrus, like any other plant, may decide to take some time to establish its roots first, before it begins to flush and produce blossoms. Also, if you've been experiencing high heat, plants will stop growing, including citrus. Just a protective mechanism. So, patience is the key, as well as regular fertilizing with the appropriate fertilizer, watering regularly through the heat of the summer, and possibly protecting your young citrus from the blazing AZ sunshine if needed. Patty S. Here is a link that might be useful: AZ Citrus Site...See Moremoro blood orange in michigan?
Comments (3)blood oranges do poorly in low light levels. They will need added light in the fall winter and spring to keep there leaves. If you live in arizona or other place where it is only cloudy at night and you have a large south facing window you should do ok. Better yet a lean-to greenhouse with a built in 55 F triggered root heater you'll do fine. Choose you rootstock very carefully. Some one else will have to advise you on that. Have you thought about or already have a meiwa kumquat. You eat the whole thing. No pealling. No mess. Blood orange, know pealling, know mess. lotsa mess. Click on image bellow to open my photobucket display. use arrow keys to navigate. click on magnifying glass in lower right hand corner for a zoom-able drop down picture to see 8 megpixel image Potted seed grown meiwa kumquat tree grow light heat box will triple your blood oranges growth over whole year Here is a link that might be useful: https://plus.google.com/photos/111099372377958308731/albums/profile?banner=pwa...See MoreDwarf Moro Blood Orange
Comments (18)Take a paper/plastic cup and punch a small hole in the bottom. Fill it with your mix and then put your finger over the hole while you fill with water. Remove your finger from the hole and leave it to drain. The perched water will remain. You can see it if you have used a clear plastic cup. Insert a toothpick into the hole. The perched water will drain out. The toothpick acts as a wick and will demonstrate why you generally need a wick in anything other than gritty mix. This test will show you how much perched water your mix retains but bear in mind it will hold more over time as the mix degrades. Organic mixes will degrade faster. I use a mix similar to the one you are considering in pots that I expect to last a year or so before re-potting or planting. Just buy a rayon mop and use a few strands to make a wick. Tie a knot to keep it from falling through the screen that you use over the drain hole. I put about 4" of mix in the bottom while holding the wick vertically. You can find pictures in Al's thread on water movement in container soils, which you should read carefully. It has lots of great info but bear in mind they are mostly talking about wetter parts of the country. If you buy the typical nursery citrus in heavy organic mix, I would remove all the loose parts. After setting the loosened rootball on the mix and confirming planting height, I usually add a bit of mix at a time and use the Dramm Water Breaker nozzle on my hose to gently loosen the roots and let the nursery mix and the new planting mix combine. You want to avoid any sharp changes in potting mix. This is the opposite of just plopping the plant in the pot and filling it up with planting mix. This post was edited by GregBradley on Fri, Oct 11, 13 at 11:57...See Moreponcirusguy6b452xx
7 years agoevdesert 9B Indio, CA
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6 years agoevdesert 9B Indio, CA
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5 years agolast modified: 5 years agouncle molewacker z9b Danville CA (E.SF Bay)
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