What to do with an armload of watercress?
9 years ago
last modified: 9 years ago
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- 9 years agolast modified: 9 years agowritersblock (9b/10a) thanked dcarch7 d c f l a s h 7 @ y a h o o . c o m
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Watercress vs upland cress
Comments (2)Larry and Lisa there is a link below that may interest you. At the bottom of the linked thread, there are more links to facts about true watercress and the cress family in general. "Horton" Here is a link that might be useful: About cress...See MoreGotta love that watercress..............................
Comments (7)Awww.....what a sight to come home to. Glad it turned out OK. After I read this I had a dream in which my pond drained overnight. lol Growing Watercress isn't hard but the plant can be contrary sometimes or some seasons. From my observations Watercress will do the best in part shade with visibly moving water. It will do great in full sun if by a waterfall until the temps get into the 90's in which it will seem to become submerged under the water. The worst growing condition I have seen is in water without very much movement. I really think water movement is the key when growing it. Hope that helps. Lisa...See MoreGrowing Watercress under the Bird Bath
Comments (4)Barbara, I have used hoop houses made of PVC pipe frames covered with 4 or 6 mm plastic to extend the harvest by growing earlier in the spring or later in the fall. You can use the same types of hoop houses to grow cold season crops all winter long if you want to. I suspect the hardest part for me would be to build one that could handle the hard north winds. If you are in town where there are other houses, other buildings like sheds, some fences and hedges, trees, etc. in close enough proximity to serve as a windblock, I think a hoophouse would be very easy to erect and maintain all winter. As Ilene mentioned, Eliot Coleman's "Four Season Harvest" is the classic book on the subject. One technique I learned from him was to use a frost blanket-type row cover on top of plants that then have further protection from a hoop house or high tunnel. That way, there are two layers of protection from the cold weather. However, Mr. Coleman, who is nothing less than a national hero to many farmers/market growers and serious hobby gardeners, has a brand new book out (April 2009) called "Winter Harvest" and even though it is primarily aimed at market growers, a serious home gardener could benefit greatly from reading it and applying his techiniques. People who've read both "Four Season Harvest" and "Winter Harvest" have stated in their reviews that basically "Winter Harvest" is an updated version of "Four Season Harvest" that includes what he's learned or changed or refined since he wrote "Four Season Harvest", so I don't know that you'd need to read both. Although, I do have to say that every word he's ever written in a book or magazine article or in any of the speeches he's given over the years is well worth reading! A couple of the most important things to remember about growing in a hoophouse or high tunnel or in short tunnels (more about them later) or cold frames is that you have to be able to open doors or vents to let heat out during the day or your plants will roast. Also, the larger the structure, the easier it is to maintain the appropriate temperature because very small structures heat up too fast and also cool down too quickly. You can use short tunnels that consist of wire or PVC hoops placed over garden rows and covered with floating row cover, plastic or both. They'll keep plants somewhat warmer, but not as well as a larger structure that has more mass. You can help increase their ability to hold heat by using a soil heating cable run down the row or plastic bottles spray-pained black and filled with water and used as solar collectors. I have used those big cat litter jugs spray-painted black as solar collectors in a hoophouse to protect early tomatoes from a late freeze with sleet and snow (and didn't lose a plant). If you use only a frost blanket type of floating row cover, I believe you pick up about 8 degrees of winter protection. With plastic, you can increase that and you can increase it a bit more with solar collectors. I haven't read "Winter Harvest" yet, but it is on my list of books to read before winter arrives. Finally, although some people have success using PVC framing, others may need to use electrical conduit as framing if they are in a high wind area or in an area where snow or sleet are likely. Another way to support a hoop house structure in those more difficult conditions is to use cattle panels as part of the support for the plastic roof. The Ardmore-based Noble Foundation has done a great deal of research into using hoophouses in agriculture. I've linked some of their data below that tells you how to errect a low tunnel. Also, you can cruise around their website or google to find their various instructions for making hoophouses (and raised beds) of different materials. Dawn Here is a link that might be useful: Nobel Foundation's Low Tunnel How-To...See Morewatercress
Comments (4)Sorry to say this but I think it's the tropical heat that is killing it. Watercress grows literally as a weed in South Australia, in most of the creeks and rivers through the mount lofty ranges. It grows with its feet IN the water, occasionally higher up the bank but only if the ground is sodden. I have it in my pond, but it needs controlling otherwise it would swamp the whole pond. Very vigorous plant, if you're having that much trouble I'd give up and grow something that DOES survive. There are so many interesting herbs you can grow there but we struggle to establish down here... Don't fight nature Belladonna. :) Here is a link that might be useful:...See More- 9 years ago
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