We had an Advantium in our old kitchen. We are a family of four and I host many dinners for a large extended family. I love to cook and bake and spend many hours in the kitchen. I don't think I ever felt I needed another microwave in addition to the Advantium. I have the KitchenAid microwave/convection combination oven in our new kitchen, and I like it much better than the Advantium. If you are going to use it for baking, I highly recommend the microwave/convection combo. If you are going with an induction cooktop and a separate oven under the cooktop, one thing to consider is the venting on the oven. Wall ovens vent to the front, which means if you're standing at the cooktop and have the oven on you'll have the hot air blowing on you. If you're using a range, that will vent to the top. I have a cooktop and wall oven (with the micro/convection above that) and find it much more convenient that my old setup with a range.

I'm facing the same issue. I recently bought a used Miele W1926 front-load washer that I obtained at a bargain price (see this thread for more on my new acquisition), but alas it's too big to fit where my old Haier mini top-loader (only holds 4.9 lbs., or 2.2kg) now resides. So I'm instead placing it in the kitchen area, the only other part of the apartment with plumbing. So I am grappling with how to best fill and drain the washer from and to the kitchen sink. For the old Haier in the bathroom, I've been using the sink-faucet adapter it was shipped with. These are inconvenient - they must be attached each time they are used, they don't allow use of the faucet when you're washing clothes, and it must be detached afterward. And they tend to leak a bit (albeit relatively harmlessly into the sink and down the drain, but still a waste of some water). I've seen similar adapters that ship with countertop dishwashers that have a red button you press to allow using the water tap when it's connected to the appliance, which would be more convenient. With the old Haier, there was only one water intake and you determined the wash/rinse temperature by where you set the sink faucet lever or knobs. It was best to set them to provide warm-to-hot water during the initial fill, then back off on the hot water and provide cool water for subsequent rinses - another inconvenience I could never get my flatmates to bother with. The Miele, however, thanks to its 240v power feed, is blessed with a powerful 2000W (2500W?) internal water heater, so you can safely set the faucet to full cold and the washer will quickly heat the water to the selected temperature. Miele doesn't allow capping off the hot water intake, but they do specifically allow attaching the washer to cold water exclusively if you provide a Y-adapter hose that feeds both cold and hot intakes with the cold water from the faucet. Thanks to the powerful 240v internal heater, this only slightly increases wash times, and it reduces the chances of certain stains setting by not dousing them with hot water immediately. So the first question is (a) should we use a faucet adapter and connect it when using the washer - easy to set up, but unattractive in use and requiring frequent attachment and removal of the intake hose, or (b) install a tee device under the sink and provide a semi-permanent hookup. Right now it has the common (in the U.S. anyway) hard copper tubing leading to a shutoff valve (which, amazingly, works) from which a flexible braided hose leads to the cold water knob of the sink faucet, similar to the one in this picture: I've never seen an all-in-one device like the one Hidroman pictured above, but I've certainly seen separate hammer arrestors and two-outlet tees, the former which would be placed before either the sink-faucet or washer outlet (and has been really necessary even with just the faucet - turning the knob off too fast causes hammering). The washer may be close enough to reach with the supplied hose; if not, I'll replace it with a longer burst-resistant braided one. The other half of the equation is draining the water. This was easy with the old Haier in the bathroom - just run the discharge hose into the shower. This would work with the Miele too, but it's no longer near the shower. It specifically supports discharge into a sink, but the typical U-shaped hose ends aren't large or stable enough to hold in place over a kitchen sink rather than the laundry tub they're made for (and bad as the occasional bathroom flooding was, I can't afford any flooding in the kitchen. I could probably modify the end of the discharge hose or cobble up something that would fit better, but it would be ugly and intrusive passing by a pantry door and up the base cabinets and always hugging the sink, helped only somewhat if I try to disguise it with a cabinet-panel raceway. Plus we'd always have to keep the kitchen sink clean. Right now, there isn't a food-waste disposer, and as it turns out I already own a working one I pulled out of a recent kitchen renovation job. It already has the "dishwasher" plug removed, but we don't have a dishwasher, and it seems I could discharge the clothes washer there in the same manner (kits to do so in the same location without a disposer are sold here) so the concept seems viable. And since the Miele has a coin/button trap and a lint filter, there shouldn't be anything unseemly clogging up the sink drainage plumbing. This approach would of course be almost invisible and imperceptible in normal use, and allow the sink, disposer, and washer to be used simultaneously if need be. The only issues here are (1) I need to install a disposer, (2) I need to run an electric line and switch to it, and (3) when I move to a new home I'll want to take the Miele with me, and can I safely plug up the "dishwasher" hole in the disposer so water doesn't leak out of the disposer into the cabinet, or must I remove the disposer altogether and either replace with a cheap new disposer without the plug removed yet, or remove the disposer and switch altogether and revert to not having a disposer? Thanks for anyone who's followed along!

Instead of trying to argue the point with my, why don't you look it up in your own code? Here it is from the State of Virginia Plumbing Code; 802.1.6 DOMESTIC DISHWASHING MACHINES Domestic Dishwashing machines shall discharge into an airgap or air break in a standpipe or waste receptor in accordance with section 802.2, or discharge into a wye branch fitting on the tailpiece of the sink or into the dishwasher inlet connection of a food waste grinder. The waste line of a domestic dishwashing machine discharging into a sink tailpiece or food waste grinder shall connect to a deck mounted air gap or the line shall rise and be securely fastened to teh underside of the sink rim or counter. Now for your enlightenment, a wye branch on the tailpiece or a dishwasher inlet port on a food waste grinder are both indirect waste connections.

Thanks for all of your help. (I had tried the float - the GE website explained the very scientific method of whacking it with a wooden spoon!) The plumber replaced all of the plumbing to the dishwasher when he was here yesterday and it works now. :) Still have to solve the problem of attachment. I figured I would try calling GE for side clips first (great idea, granite-girl) and if that doesn't go anywhere, try the epoxy. Again, thanks for your help. It is so nice to have this forum for questions like these! (And helpful people on the other end willing to take the time to answer them!)