I'm amazed, doesn't anybody who has thoughts about putting bulbs into pots and placing them out of doors think about their pots....let alone the bulb inside it. How can a bulb that needs to be watered when planted, go into a pot and have the pot not freeze its *** off and burst the pot? Into a pot yes,....but not left outside. Into the cool place, the 40....45...50 degree place and left there for the required ...minimum 12 weeks....14 for a hybrid tulip which takes us into March at which time they come out into the sunshine of a window to flower. Keep the soil moist. You can plant 5 in a 6" pot and if tulips is what you are planting, put the flat side of the bulb outwards to the rim. This will cause the first leaf forming to point out. Oh, and also, don't push the bulb into the soil....make a hole and put the bulb into the hole, minimum 1" of soil under it. Then cover the bulb. Leave about 1" below the rim to accommodate watering. And it should drain. When the bloom has faded, the bulb in the pot can then go outside to finish its yellowing and planted in the garden just like all the rest are. I don't know whether I can believe the weather report from WBBM.....or WGN.....but those Chicago radio stations say it got down into the single digits last night and they don't expect any improvement until the weekend. Steve and Johnny make for good listening.WGN...why not call them up and ask them if they think you can still plant bulbs in the ground....OR....how about the Professor... Milt Rosenberg...WBBM....great listening. Gotta think the ground in Chicago is as frozen as it is in Ontario....at least enough to prevent digging in to put a bulb. But if you can access a pick-axe, and can dig down the rquired...6"....8"...then that'd the place to put the bulbs. Cant imagine any bulb being left outside to fend for itself through a northern winter if not in the ground.

I wouldn't fertilize now either. I agree rooting in spring has its benefits, but since you're trying to save the leaf at this time, you can't hold off till spring.. Like Rjm stated, diving the leaf is one way to root. Actually, I've seen pics of how rooting Sans is done..One leaf is cut into 2-3" pieces, set upright/angle in well-draining soil. The problem is, since your leaf is yellow, which normally happens when Sans are over or underwatered, this leaf may not root..When rooting, heatlhy foliage is recommeded..Neither the oldest nor youngest leaves are advised. I'm not saying your leaf is unhealthy, since it's still firm (no rot, right?) So, it might have a chance of survival with some work. It's also a good experiment. I wouldn't use the entire leaf to root. You've a better chance at success cutting into pieces. If you decide to go this route, there's no need for plastic (humidity) In fact, you want the soil to dry out to a degree, adding plstic will keep soil too wet. The best container is a small, shallow dish/tray. Set cuttings a few inches apart. Place tray in medium light (no direct sun) If you use Superthrive Hormone and Vitamins, add a small amount once a month..If you don't have/use Superthrive, perhaps a light dose of Fish Emulsion will help..a very light dose. Good luck, Toni

My end vote is the same as the other guys. If it is near your house or a car you like start getting estimates for removal. If it is on the back 40 I would LOVE to experiment in that tree with some sealers like you are thinking. IMO all the structural wood inside that big tree is just like a big cottonwood 4x4 and if I want a 4x4 to last outside on my deck I darned well better treat it. Now you do have to clean it and dry it previous to treating it. Also lord knows what is best to use. I'd stoo coating whatever well short of the live outer layers of the tree. Even though my neighbor's silver maple obviously is none the worse for encapsulating that metal fence post no need to temp fate by letting the live layers of the tree contact a chemical. If large parts of the canopy did not sprout this year that is all for experimentation though. I just can't see the vascular portion of the tree recovering even if you somehow stop the rot.

I'm wondering why there would be 2,4-D residue on these leaves in the first place. If you collected the fallen leaves months afterwards, how would 2,4-D get on them if they were on the trees when it was applied? Yes, it could volatilize/drift up into the trees, but that could happen if anyone within 1/4 mile sprayed and you would never know. 2,4-D is one of the least persistent herbicides, it degrades in most soils within a month to almost undetectable levels. It's half-life is very short. The general recommendation is to wait at least 7 days after a 2,4-D spray directly to the soil before seeding that same area....since it can temporarily reduce germination. I wouldn't be concerned at all if I were in your situation, but you can worry if that's what you like to do.