help with ficus (fiddle leaf fig)

7 years ago

About three months ago, I bought a v healthy looking ficus plant. Based on the recommendation of plant store I did not remove the plant from the plastic container, instead cut additional slits into the side to allow the roots to grow out. I then put a nice layer of gritty mix at the bottom and filled out the rest of the pot with the remaining mix (see picture).

I water the plant once every two weeks, and fertilize with Foliage Pro (9-3-6) once every two months. I water the plant thoroughly each time, and the drainage situation appears ample (water always comes through the drainage holes quickly and in volume). The plant has not been moved from its non-drafty location of my apartment which is well lit and gets maybe 30-60 minutes of direct sun every day.

Over the past six weeks, my ficus has not been happy. It has lost several leafs and brown spots have been appearing on the bottom leafs, and I am now seeing some evidence of this spotting on top leaves, which is concerning. There has been no new growth since the plant has arrived at my apartment.

The one environmental element that has changed during this period (beyond shorter days) is my old NYC radiator system has come on - which emits a very dry heat (succulents do very well in the windowsill above my radiators). To address this issue, I am now running a large humidifier in the room, which seems to have addressed the humidity issue

My question is, based on the picture, can anyone else diagnose any other potential issues I have beyond humidity?

Featured Answer

Andrea ME z5b

7 years ago

I agree with Dave, especially on the water meter situation, the low tech stick method is much more accurate. Also, you want the soil to be about a third to half dry before you water and you want to water very thoroughly when you do water but you don't want the pot to sit in water. One method that seems to work for a lot of people is to set the pot in a drip tray filled with gravel, this allows any excess water to drain away without creating a puddle that the plant will be sitting in for days, also the water in the drip tray will add a little humidity to the plant's micro-climate as it evaporates. Also keep in mind that your plant has gone from a warm, humid greenhouse to the store where you bought it, to your apartment in a few short months and figs are not big fans of change so a bit of a temper tantrum is to be expected. I am a little dubious of the increased fertilizing though, I wouldn't do more than once a month in the winter, especially since the plant is struggling a bit already. All in all though it sounds like you're on your way, don't expect any big changes until spring though, slow and steady wins the race. BTW, holy cow Dave, that fig is amazing!

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Comments (10)

Max Gross
Original Author
7 years ago
Max Gross
Original Author
7 years ago
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Dave
7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago
30-60 mins of sun is nothing. It would prefer 12-15 hours of that.

Get it closer to the window as it's way too far away. Right up in front of the glass is best.

Not sure why the plant store told you to let the roots grow through slits in the pot into gritty mix on the outside. That's going to be a nightmare when repot time comes up. Plus, you have uneven moisture. Either too dry on the outside or too wet on the inside.

Id use FP more often than once every two months. I use one tbsp per gallon every other week in the winter and weekly in the summer.
Max Gross thanked Dave
Max Gross
Original Author
7 years ago
I imagine because in NYC many people come back complaining that plant dies, as they can be pretty difficult to keep in these environs.

Fair point on gritty mix. Imagine I should not try to rectify that until summer time.
Dave
7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago
I live in Vermont, so I'd say my indoor winter environment is similar to yours. I grow ficus Benjamina, which has the same cultural needs as your ficus lyrata.

Mine does well and yours can too!

I'd remove the plant from the outer pot with the gritty and keep it in its original soil and pot until June.

Standard potting mix on the inside and gritty on the outside really won't do your tree any favors.

Also, more light. Do you have a window you plan place it right in front of? Preferably one that receives the most light possible.

Lastly, watering. How are you checking to ensure the plant needs water?
Max Gross thanked Dave
Max Gross
Original Author
7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago
Gorgeous!

The window situation is an issue, and not just because of space concerns. If you can see below that's the radiator on the left (very hot - will literally single plants) and on the right is a built-in wall unit which is poorly insulated and incredibly drafty.

Watering I give it one gallon every ten days as long as the moister meter hits dry. Was worried about over fertilizing but will start including the FP. Will run a plant light every day until lighting conditions improve. (will also remove from gritty mix and put aside once I can emerge from a work bunker).
Dave
7 years ago
Thanks!

sounds like you're doing (and want to do) everything you can for your tree.

That's a bummer about the window situation. Any other windows? Even if they don't get direct sunlight?

what type of bulb is that in the light you have pointed at the tree?

lastly, watering, the moisture meters measure salts in the water (that's how they know if it's wet or not). If you stuck it in distilled water, it would read dry. So, they're not really the most accurate devices.

There are a couple of options to know when to water. Stick your fingers into the soil and also feel the soil at the drain hole on the bottom. If both are dry, you can water.

Another method is using a dowel sharpened with a pencil sharpener.

Youd insert all the way down and pull it out. If it comes up damp and soil sticks to the dowel, don't water. If it comes out dry and have no soil stuck to it, it's time to water.

Those methods should help you water correctly. Every 10 days could be too much. The soil could be staying very wet down lower in the pot which would cause issues.

The best way to water plants is as needed and not on a set schedule. They use more or less water during different times of the year.

Hope that helps.
Max Gross
Original Author
7 years ago
Standard plant bulb. Do you think that will suffice?

Unfortunately same issue with the other windows. That said - the apartment does get very bright light when the sun is out. I'm lucky in that send as those are southern facing windows that are not obstructed by a tall building (I'm in Manhattan).

The ficus appeared happy - if not a little jealous of the succulents - until the heat came on and the days became shorter.
Dave
7 years ago
Depends on the bulb. Is it a cfl? Do you know the wattage, lumens and color temp? I.e. 5000k, 6500k, etc?

you can definitely get away with grow light(s). They just need to have the correct color temp (kelvin) and need to be bright enough.

I use many grow lights throughout the winter and get lots of growth out of my plants. However, I do acclimate all of my trees to direct sun and put them outside for the summer. That's when they literally grow in feet each year!

Here are some grow lights I use. I didn't spend much on any of them. Just standard shop lights with 6500k and 5000k bulbs.