21" is big enough and easier to handle. Use something to prop the tree up where you're cutting so it's not directly on the ground. The branch on the side of the tree in the picture is enough. Try to have it steady so you can keep both hands on the saw. If you keep one hand on the trunk make sure you know where it is in relation to the blade. You can keep a can of WD-40 nearby to spray the blade if it's getting stuck or binding. Make sure you don't put pressure on the trunk in a way that would make the cut close and bind the blade. Don't force it. Just put a little bit of downward pressure on the blade and let the saw do the work. I don't know if a reciprocating saw is safer. Anything that's sharp and moves fast needs to be handled with care. I just threw that out in case you already had one. No need to buy one just for this. The key, as I stated previously, is to make sure the trunk is supported underneath in a way that won't case the blade to bind or the trunk to shift or fall. That's true no matter what you use to cut it.

Hey buddy!! I use to use them and the problems I had to deal with using extra light was unsurmountable..Not worth it for me.. If you are forced to use them and do not want to, then you have two choices..One, do not grow plants that need lot's of sunlight...Or two, grow them, but expect to work hard at avoiding many problems associated with them.. That is where some will come in here and help..The ones that use lights and soley rely on them may have had and still might much more succees than I ever did.. The PESTS are a givin for most..That is why you hear all this talk of sprays, homemade recipes and or chemical being used my most all winter long!!!! I only use them regular flourescent lights over my clivias in the cellar for a couple of hours now to help them grow in perfect symetrical shape, while my expensive ones just sit turned off all winter.... We can talk later..I will e-mail you when home later..:-) Mike

Thanks, Heathan1, for your response. I'll just have to unearth one of them and find out which .... they're taller than I thought - maybe 2 feet. If they're suckers, can I just dab them in rooting hormone and put them in soil, or what?

Hi, Donna! In my zone, if I transplant in spring I do so as soon as I can work in the soil. It all depends on how wet the ground is...I try to avoid compacting the soil around the hostas but if I get too enthusiastic and can't wait, I end up with more work...needing to fluff up all the soil I tramped on! :( the cultivation around the hostas is beneficial any time as it disturbs and exposes any eggs laid by slugs, etc. If it's too wet, then I wait until I see some pip activity (by that time the ground has warmed and dried somewhat) and get digging before they hostas are fully emerged. It's gratifying to see them in their new location, continuing to push out pips as if they've been there all along! :) In the fall I place markers in front of all hostas - they serve as a gauge for me where to start digging if I haven't left old flower scapes as markers (usually remove all old vegetation to avoid harbouring slug eggs). I love dividing and replanting in the fall but with the heatwave expected, spring it is! I used to divide, or relocate on a whim, all season long but the summers have been hotter each year and regardless of the after-care, I found it stresses most hostas. Those that hate to be moved put on a sulk and some years it set the plant back 2 years size-wise (GE as an example). Everybody has their own preferences (based on their experience, depending on their zone and length of growing season) for when it's best to move or divide their plants. The ultimate goal is to minimize stress on the hosta. Your zone allows you a longer growing season than mine. If your hostas have time to set roots before going into dormancy, go for it. If you are even slightly doubtful, wait until spring - it's much easier moving a leafless hosta! :-) Thanks, Donna for asking for my two cents. I got a wee bit chatty but enjoyed it! Lol :-)