I have a Bosch 30 induction. I don't remember which hobs have which power, but, I do boil a small serving of pasta in my 2 qt. saucepot in the blink of an eye, almost. I cannot lift heavy expensive cookware and my relatively low cost stuff works perfectly. No buzz. I lift and swirl and it doesn't shut off. It is true that folks just have their preferences. Some just like flames. Maybe they appreciate their cooking more if they are sweating. (Food Network chefs sweat a lot) I have a new gas stove, 2003, at our vacation cottage -there is no comparison. But, we don't cook much at the cottage. The only advantage to gas would be to char a pepper, wok or cook during an outtage. My Shanghai born dil is a superb cook and uses large skillets, no woks. In my case, having a zip-zip cleanup, without soaking or scrubbing grates, would overwhelm any gas advantage. I prefer not to sweat during cooking or cleanup. And not smell gas.

So sorry! I meant 3mm. Thank you, I corrected that - I also added that the back brackets require the same slightly thicker stock (than the usual Ikea drawer bottom - so if you marry the back Blum brackets to the Ikea bottoms, you use the Ikea bottom if possible, but have to create a back.) I am not sure if I can post a link, but Google Tandembox & measurements. If you have the Ikea Rationell drawers, and you need to cut them narrower for some reason, the provided drawer bottom will work fine if you cut it, then cut a channel like the opposite side. I found a number of cover panels on clearance in As-Is which were the thickness I needed for the Rationell drawers which I found in As-Is which were not wide enough, so if you need to make wider drawers, measure the thickness of the provided bottoms, and either find what you need at your local big box, or see what you can find at Ikea. From what I discovered on-line, get fiberboard versus particleboard. It is better in most ways. Doesn't chip out when you cut it, is stronger, and lots more info online. I'd recommend you start with one pair of back brackets, and see how they work for you. Also, the one big struggle I had was figuring out where to drill the holes - while I highly recommend the BLUM front marking template for drawer fronts, and wish I purchased it, I designed a really helpful almost free solution; you know wall anchors? Those little plastic inch long or so anchors which are put into a wall prior to a screw? I put a couple in (from the front) of the Ikea drawer front brackets (which hold the drawer to the drawer front), cut most of the rest off the back of the bracket, then installed short pointy screws from the back, then popped them onto the sides once they were ready to fit the drawer fronts. I fit drawers from the bottom up, leaving appropriate space between each drawer (about 1/16th). It really helps to create a sturdy low and level platform for the installation of the lowest drawer, so you can place the drawer at the correct height without too much duress (learned the hard way.) Then, place your drawer against these screws, and give it a hard whack - they will leave marks on the drawer of where to drill. Use a penny or some other spacer between that installed drawer and the next drawer, and do the same. Then remove the jig bracket, and replace with a non-jig bracket. For the last drawer you install, just remove the screws and plastic anchors after you have marked your spot. Here is a photo (poor, sorry, my phone camera is not great) of how I constructed the drawer jig.

Thanks for the headsup, angela12345. I measured the GD and went to HD to measure the interior dimension of a 30" sink base cabinet. My oh my, a 30" sink base is TINY! But, it will have to do for now. The 33" sink base has more space inside and I wish we could put it in our layout without my being so bothered. Sigh. Alas, I really can't stand how the spacing of the sink base is uneven in relation to the already lopsided window on the wall. It makes me feel I am living in the winchester mystery house! So far, I have ascertained that it can hold our trash, recycle bin and compost pail, with a smidge of room left for fire extinguisher. Definitely no room for insta-hot water heater and filter. So, we nix that from our wish list. I am looking for a single bowl undermount. After some online research, I found a kindred sink KCUS30A-10/10BG that I like but I don't know if it's available online or not. I wish I could use the ticor sink but the one I like needs a 33" sink base. Bummer. The kindred sink I am interested in will have interior dimension of 27"W x 16"L x 10"H. I think that will work beautifully for washing my long-handled pans. Here's the specs: http://www.kindred-sinkware.com/grfx/products/specs/KCUS30A_10-10BG.pdf. Hope Kindred is a good product.

I've been wondering about a layout and didn't have time to try it until today's naptime :-) Did you explore with your architect placing the laundry and powder room between the kitchen and the garage? I realized I was looking at the kitchen and living room as totally separate rooms, but if they are open to each other, I don't see reason why the walk-behind space at the island seating can't be in the living room. The beige stripe is just how I started the drawing by lining up the pantry door/wall with the dining room doorway. I apologize the drawings aren't more clearly communicated. I'm just using Ikea and paint. I didn't mess with upper cabinets or pantry cabs. Benefits of this layout... You don't require the mudroom bump out into the garage; maybe you can have more garage storage or more space to walk around cars This pantry looks like it could be beautiful with the window and your dream pantry door. Room for 36" cooktop and double oven, microwave might go in pantry? Shorter distance from cooktop and oven to butler's pantry/dining room for staging meals. Laundry room and bathroom are located privately and noises are far from TV viewing and eating areas. Toilet near back door is a plus if you have little kids. Bigger mudroom? Counter seating for six if you wanted. Seems a bit much to me, so I might put a 15" deep drawer base on the refrigerator end. Negatives of this layout: Walk thru powder to get to laundry--my best friends house is set up like this and I assure you its not a problem. She's a working mom and when home their house is crawling with middle school boys. Farther walk from stairs to laundry room for hauling laundry. Patio door is a bit crowded.