Code requires that both the water heater PRV discharge line and the furnace condensate line must either terminate to free air outside the structure or into an approved "indirect waste receptor" The termination point of a PRV discharge line must point downward. When extending a pipe through a footer wall we must install a 90deg elbow on the end of the line to turn it downwards. (This is to minimize the risk of scalding water spraying out of the line and hitting someone standing near the point of discharge) Under the IRC when terminating outdoors the line must terminate within 6" of finished grade. Under the UPC it must terminate between 6" and 24" above finished grade. When terminating into the house DWV system or a storm drain system such as you have the PRV line must terminate a minimum of 2" above the flood level rim of the drain receptor, whether that is a floor drain, utility sink or a sump vessel. (The intended purpose of the 2" air gap is to prevent bacteria from entering the line and potentially going up the line and into the heater vessel.) In your case, you could install a tee on the storm drain line and stub a section of the storm drain up slightly above grade, then mount your PRV discharge line pointing down into the open standpipe. Just make sure that the bottom of the PRV line is 2" above the highest level of the riser from the tee. (Note, your 4" line is a storm drain therefore you are not required to install a P-trap below the riser.)

gigiprince, I was just curious, was there any new construction nearby during the time you noticed the leak and crack in your block wall? The PorchGuy Here is a link that might be useful: My Album

"...good amount of water congregating in the low corner of the crawl below my vapor barrier." It the low point is below the water table water can easily rise up. Adding some fill to the low point (gravel) under the vapor barrier, and then topping it with sand is about the only fix. The sand is needed to protect the vapor barrier if you ever need to work in that area. If the water subsides on its own without breaching the vapor barrier it should be fine. The only long term issue I can think of would be repeated movement of a vapor barrier. Plastic tends to stiffen with age and the movement could eventually cause cracking. A repair would be needed at that point.

During heavy rain the foundation below the outside faucet would flow with water. After inspection there is a big hole and you can see the line for the faucet. So I decided to dig on the exterior of the house expecting to seal it from the other side and appears it was made by design. Is it okay to fill the whole? And if so what should I use?