Hello- I am a new member.
8 years ago
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8 years agoRelated Discussions
new, from Florida
Comments (6)Your email is not setup. I have 5 different bromeliads that I could trade for your Desert rose. Email me directly and we could decide! Thanks, Kerai...See MoreNew member and plant ID.
Comments (2)I don't feel that the bracts are long enough to be Odorata, if it has white petals it is more likely Alc. Glaziouana, yellow petals then it is Alc. Odorata...See MoreHelp- fig cuttings by force
Comments (4)Jim, a September cutting can still be rooted successfully - I did this two years ago with a boxful of branches sent to me from Virginia by my aunt, when she pruned her fig bushes for me. I ended up with over a dozen plants that "took", though some are still small (but that's just me still learning how to grow them in pots). You'll want to select enough nodes to get decent rooting, while having room left for it to push some leaf buds - how many cuttings did you rescue from the branch, and what size are they? Presently I'm rooting pencil-diameter-size cuttings just started within the past four weeks, from a branch pruned off a friend's tree, and had at least two of four send out roots while wrapped in damp paper toweling, inside a plastic bag. Three have pushed leaves/stems already (actually, the fourth did also, but it was low on the cutting where I wanted roots to grow, so I nipped off the growth and am waiting for something at the terminal end instead). If you do a search on propagating or cuttings, you'll find a wealth of information within this forum on how to start them, but I'd recommend using either clear plastic bottles or cups (drainage holes punched plentifully in the bottoms) filled with damp perlite/vermiculite mixture (or something else exceedingly well-draining), *not* potting soil and not dirt. You can try rooting horizontally in a plastic container, using the same mixture, except partly burying the cutting. Roots can be coaxed out sometimes by using the damp paper towels around the cuttings, placing in plastic, then in a dark place, but check often for mold and for signs that the leaves are pushing first. I rinsed mine frequently and kept them upstairs where the temperatures were the warmest, and had very fast progress that way. Keys to good rooting will be: - avoiding excessive moisture (otherwise it will rot the wood), but keeping humidity up by tenting or partially covering the cutting - providing decent warmth in the root zone (a heating pad or mat is good if you can set the cuttings in their containers on top of one). - *avoid direct sunlight*, or the cuttings will fry. Keep them in bright light but without UV radiation hitting them. If you're starting them now, I'd keep them indoors and give them extra lighting (fluorescent is ideal) if you can. That's how my four are going now, along with another rooted plant that I'm trying to coax into leafing out - I do tend to keep the youngest cuttings going over the winter, since there's no time for them to truly harden off before cold sets in. BTW, most here would probably recommend NOT using a rooting powder or hormone. There've been rotting problems associated with them, and figs are typically so easy to start, they don't need it, and it may actually interfere with the rooting. I have better results without the stuff. Please ask if there's something else that would help you turn the Canine Caper's carve-job into new plants! Sherry (still learning how it's done even after several years now)...See MoreBed Location along Fence???
Comments (2)2 of my SFG beds are against a 6' chain link fence. I use it to trellis tomatoes, cukes, snow peas, etc. and love it. The plants get great air circulation, the spaces are wide enough to weave the plants through and it hides the fence, which I find hideous. :) Use it and save the money you would have to spend on supports for more seeds and plants, amendments, etc....See More
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