Gorgeous!! Heck, I'll come clean - it looks so nice one just wants to finish it!. Lovely work, once again.

Oh wow. Thank you for sharing that. Very interesting.

The end result looks fantastic.

Thanks ainelane.

Most contractors will tell you that you can't retrofit a 33" undermount sink into a 33" sink base cabinet. Yes you can; it just takes 6 1/2 hours to do, plumbing included.

The end result is lovely. Nice job.

Beautiful job, Joe!

Just awesome! I like when you share your projects.

Thanks meyerk9. I share the ones that aren't enough for a column, but that are relevant to readers here. Sink replacement has become a huge part of my business through no fault of mine. The demand is there, so I do what I gotta do.

Now can you talk them into changing the switch plates?

Always fun to see these projects and the before, during, and after experience. How solid is a faucet mounted on stainless? My knee-jerk reaction is that banging something into the top of the faucet could bend or rip the metal, but I, admittedly, know nothing.

Looks great! I don't know how people find you but they must be thrilled that they do! I imagine word of mouth advertising goes a long way in your business.

"How solid is a faucet mounted on stainless? My knee-jerk reaction is that banging something into the top of the faucet could bend or rip the metal, but I, admittedly, know nothing."

Good question. A stainless steel sink is sometimes quite floppy side-to-side on its own, however, when strapped underneath to the sides of the cabinet with a Hercules Universal Sink Harness, as is this one, the sink is compressed against the bottom of the stone and becomes quite rigid. No human could press that faucet/sink into submission, I promise.

Speaking of sinks, I love the pictured Kohler Vault. Every single time I open that box I smile. Excellent consistent quality. I can't afford to drive an hour and a half to a job only to find a damaged sink, or I've just added three hours minimum to the job and wrecked my schedule.

Impressive granite and installation work Joseph!

What a wonderful update to that kitchen. The cast iron sink was awful - but that sink update saved tearing out the counters!

Very nice! Doesn't everyone wish Joseph lived by them?

Yes!

As always impressive work ! Lisa , everyone that needs an expert sure does! I hope I never have a disaster need . The flood was enough .

Joseph, which sink is that? Is it this one: http://www.us.kohler.com/us/Vault-33-x-22-x-9-5-16-top-mount-under-mount-large-single-bowl-kitchen-sink-with-single-faucet-hole/productDetail/kitchen-sinks/427698.htm;jsessionid=BC770F03282B5CB6DF0668E3C7918A30.kohler-prod1-ecom2?

I see that of the Kohler Vault line, some are over mount OR under mount, and others are only one or the other. I assume this is one of the sinks that was capable of over or under, and you did an under mount and fully exposed the faucet hole so that you would not have to cut a hole in the granite for the faucet?

Great job, as always! The finished product looks wonderful and as if it was there from the beginning.

Anon Username:

It is the same sink, with the exception that your link has 4 pre-drilled holes and the one I installed only had one.

The sink cut-out in the granite was already cut for me; I couldn't cut the granite for another hole because it didn't exist.

Joseph, do you remember the dimensions of the final sink cutout? Do you remember how thick the granite strips at the front and back are? Just guessing based on the pictures, but the rear strip looks to be only 1-2" thick or so, and the front strip perhaps 2-3" thick?

I've actually managed to locate a contractor or two willing to tackle a project similar to yours. They, of course, have warned that those two strips of granite might break during the process. But now I'm just trying to make sure I have the space for an appropriately sized sink cutout for the Kohler sink, and if I do, I will probably give it a go and cross my fingers that the granite does not break!

The granite isn't going to break, and it isn't all that if it does. On these jobs, you play the hand you're dealt.

I repaired this chip in Cambria as a courtesy since it led to a sink replacement job. Dang pencil edge.

Surprisingly little dust.

I've cut through and exposed a metal sink insert mount. It's got to go.

For those not fans of "scooping" cabinets, this is how much plywood "meat" is left after the cabinet "I beams" were removed by the previous installation. Strapped sinks do the job the cabinet side tops used to do.

The cut-out has a nice round-over profile and polish and the 33" sink slides in below the bottom of the top. The Sink Straps have been installed to the cabinet walls; that's the black thing at the bottom of the sink.

I did another one of these today:

Unfortunately, the top blew up getting the sink out. Where are the reinforcement rods when I need them?:

Good thing I sold my old Gorilla Grips and bought the new ones that can clamp a skinny sink rail:

That is truly amazing - What great skill and craftsmanship!!!!

Thanks Phil. I did this one today without breaking the top:

Wow Joseph. You are the first person I have seen that has been able to fix a cracked or broken granite with such finesse. Cheers! Great workmanship.

You break it, you dang well better know how to put it back. lol.

Thanks.

Whenever I look at your before and after photos I am I am always amazed at the quality of your work. Those repairs are simply perfect.

You've mentioned the Hercules Universal Sink harness several times - is this only used with undermount sinks? I wish they had used one on our 30" Franke stainless steel sink since it began to separate from the granite within 3 years of install.

However we're now renovating a different kitchen and I'd like to avoid any possible problems. Our cabinets will be installed in a few weeks along with a 30" Kohler Whitehaven farmhouse sink. Can the harness be used with that type of sink or do you recommend a different product?

I've also noticed that most of your sinks show a small positive reveal - is that what you recommend? I think I like that over the negative reveal on my Franke - it was difficult to clean. I guess that's something I need to discuss when the fabricators come to template my counters.

Thanks - Maire

Marie:

I've strapped farmhouse sinks and blocked some in also. I'd have to take a look at the Whitehaven specs to answer your question, but I've had too much wine to do that tonight. lol.

The HUSH is only used with undermount sinks.

I always recommend a positive reveal, no matter the size. The negative reveal leaves a crud ledge and a flush mount leaves an elongated silicone joint and must be perfect to look good. A positive reveal leaves virtually no silicone line and no maintenance.

Thanks for the quick reply Joseph. I agree that a positive reveal is easier to clean - and if I had one on my Franke I would have noticed the gap between sink and counter sooner. Our fabricators will be out tomorrow to template the bathroom vanities and I'll speak with them about the kitchen sink reveal. They won't do the kitchen for another 3 weeks.

We're going to the stone yard tomorrow to check the two slabs of Ice Flake quartzite that they're saving. We only need one but I'd like to see both of them and then pick one.

Hey enjoy that wine - I'm sure you deserve it!

Maire

The huge swoop in the left rear, a 1/4" from the splash, is no problem for the Kohler.

The more of your work that I see, the more depressed I get thinking about the mess in my kitchen.

Kudos to you sir, you truly are a master.

How do you cut so close to the backsplash? That’s got to be tough, especially without pulling the top.

Thanks.

I rough cut to near the splash, then grind to finish.

I am rarely impressed these days, but your work (Joseph) is nothing short of fine artistry. I wish there were more folks out there like you. It would make everyone's work easier in the countertop arena.

This is a 7-year-old fiberglass sink. She doesn't like it; replacement is his

Christmas present to her.

I cut through the sides to gain access to the screws holding the 2x4 blocking that are holding the sink in place. Dang thing's got a flange under the faucet so that, the soap dispenser, and the filtered water dispenser have all got to be pulled.

A Kohler double bowl fits the existing opening, but the radii in the corners are off, the side reveals are negative, and the front and rear are positive, but apparently that was a small tradeoff as to the cost of cutting, profiling, and polishing a new cut-out, according to the homeowners.

1. 
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
2. I had to keep the whoop-dee from the original sink cut-out; you can see it on the varying reveal on the new apron sink rear flange.

Again, this is not installed per Kohler specifications. Had I butted the apron to the cabinet front as they specify, the sink flange wouldn't have covered the curve of the original cut out. The sink is set 1/4" further back. I cut the cabinet front around the sink; it does no structural work other than keeping the sink harness from pulling the cabinet out of square and holding the doors in place.

The original cast iron sink was leaking in addition to being ugly and worn. The right cabinet side was beginning to rot. Pay me now or pay me later.

The face of the frameless cabinet veneer is uncut and will be hot melt glued back in place after the 33" sink is slid into position in the 33' cabinet. Even if it's not perfect, the top overhang will cover as you operate the tip-out drawer. No one is ever going to see this but you right now. Sink Straps will be mounted to the cabinet sides to hold the undermount sink in place:

This replaced a nasty cast iron drop-in similar to the first picture in this thread.

Hi Joseph, I have a question. I want to strap a 30.5 " sink to a 30" sink cabinet with 3/4" sides. The sink itself measures 28". I take it I will have to shave the sides down since the sink flange will be a little over cabinet width. Should I cut out just where the sink goes or the whole thing? Would I need to shim for the counter and how would that work? I wish you were in the area, I'd hire you in a second : ).

I also have a question. We'd love to replace an existing sink. What kind of contractor do we look for? Plumber, granite person? Or both?

Kristal:

You only need to remove about 1 1/2” of the top of the cabinet side. When you strap this causes no damage as you’re replacing wood with steel. No shimming should be necessary.

Clt3:

I’d guess you’d have more luck getting a granite guy to do plumbing than a plumber to do granite. You may have to hire each and a carpenter.

Thank you.

Trying to replace cast iron sink ( need replacement in a week) in Silestone opening. Funny size, undermount, rough opening is 26” x 17”. There’s plenty of room in the cabinet, but I can’t find a white replacement sink that size. Any help you can give me is greatly appreciated.

@Joseph Corlett, LLC

How much easier of a job would it be if you would not undermount the apron front Kohler vault but top mount it?

Since you don't need to polish/clean up the extra cut edges, is there a big price difference?

I have a 36" base cabinet with currently a 30" undermount double bowl sink installed. One thing I'm worried about is the counter seam goes directly through the middle of the sink. And another one is the faucet hole, haven't gotten the Vault sink yet, so couldn't check if they would line up.

Thank you!