There are several misconceptions here. There can be site finished solid wood or site finished engineered wood. Having it finished on site is the variable. The two are not mutually exclusive. Foundation type often demands engineered wood, and that does not mean accepting a lesser quality material. As long as an adequate budget is in the picture, quality in either type is achievable. Site finished has everything to do with finding the right artisan. Prefinished has everything to do with the company that creates the product. It is a shift in emphasis for responsibility of a successful install. A NWFA accredited installer and installation for site finished is likely to be several notches in expense above the install of a medium quality prefinished product. Choosing to use a lesser skilled finisher simply because of budget, will likely have results that you are not happy with in the long run. Engineered wood, if it's a good quality, is indistinguishable from solid wood to the naked eye. IF it's installed as a Permanently affixed nail down or glue down. Floating floors are a whole other category of installation and often perform unsatisfactorily because of improper site prep and low quality sound pad. That is regardless of the material being floated, including laminate. Any floor that is not flat enough, and experiences bounce, is not flat enough for Any floor but carpet to be installed. Deflection though, often has more to do with the joists being inadequately specced to the lowest allowable by code rather than the subfloor thickness. When hard floors are desired, the home has to be engineered to accept them from the design phase. This is one area that being "code compliant" results in too many problems down the road because the code is inadequate for the construction level that most homes now wish to have. The use of a good quality vacuum is a recommended care routine in addition to dry dusting. If there are no other issues in the home, such as inadequate kitchen ventilation, a vacuum will remove dust from any micro bevels in a prefinished floor---or the inevitable micro gaps in a site finished floor.

Try to look at these pad options. http://rugsusa.com/rugpads.html?gclid=CLKgzt7wxIsCFQs8Sgodnh3jBw Here is a link that might be useful: Area Rug non slip pads

I doubt if you will be happy with walnut, the softest of hardwoods. There is no finish that will make it much harder. It is what it is. The opposite end of the hardness scale is the ipe you mentioned. If you want a similar grain you may consider red birch, a beautiful light cherry colored wood much harder than walnut. Birch, as with all close grained woods, does show the indentations it gets more readily than the more textured woods like oak. This is because the smoother surface makes them easier to detect. No finish is perfect. Aluminum oxide is slow to wear through but also harder to repair. We have in our house a lifetime guaranteed wear through finish (Trustor WearMax) but I would not use it again. No sign of wear through but we do have indentations etc that I can not touch up to my satisfaction and I'm an expert at that type of thing. I suggest you walk through this with a competent professional to find a combination of ascetics and durability to suit your needs.

There is always going to be a debate about this, but I'll say what I tell most of my customers. First, what's the look you want? Most pre-finished woods will NOT(no matter what the company tells you) have a perfectly flat end result, and you will have seams. Every wood company known to the flooring world will put a disclaimer on their 'instructions' that the "use of stains or putties should be considered normal practices". So if either of those concern you, don't get pre-finished wood. On site finished, those key things will be sanded down and puttied before finishing and resulting in less if no visibility of wider seems, putty marks and scratches out of box. Second, finishes they put on pre-finished these days are considerably different in many ways. In a factory somewhere(probably China depending on the company) they can put the harshest chemicals they want on the wood because of the fact that it's in a "controlled environment" which then can(and mostly does) result in a better and stronger finish. With on-site finishing you are restricted legally on what finishes you can apply, and depending on situations and products it can take anywhere between 3 days to 2 weeks for only FINISHING. That takes a chunk out of and slows down your building or living time. And thirdly, you cannot compare Apples to Oranges, EVER. You can't go to your neighbors house and see the pre-finished Australian Cypress they purchased from Lumber Liquidators for cheap that they installed themselves and then go to the local classy, and expensive, restaurant and see their on-site darkly finished Red Oak professionally installed, and come up with what you want in your house. And honestly people, 99 times out of 100 how much you spend will determine the end result. Meaning if there is a Oak that you're looking at and it costs $1.50/sf(yeah we wish, right?) and there is another Oak that costs $4.65/sf, the more expensive one WILL have a better finish, density, and/or overall quality(like i said 99 times out of 100). There's too much to go into but the basic aspects are different companies get different quality of wood- meaning grain tightness(tighter is better less chance of damage during sawing) grain pattern, finish chemicals(if pre-finished), etc. And just some last comments to help you out. What it really all comes down to is you. It's your house, it's your likes and dislikes that matter. Joe Shmoe can try and try to sell you this product or that product, but only go for what you want(remember most companies will give a kick back, or a spiff, to the sales person to sell their product even if the sales person says they don't). You have to live in your house, nobody else does. The installer only cares if you're happy and he/she gets paid, and the salesman only cares if you're happy and he/she gets paid, but you can only be happy if you get what you really want. Also, I used to love Bamboo. I like the look and most notably it is one of the fastest growing woods(it's actually a grass) in the world. I don't like it for floors anymore because it scratches so easily, because of the nature of a grass it soaks up any liquid very quickly including finishes. If your heart is set on bamboo, go with on-site and expect a lot of finishing days and in the future refinishes. I know there is another thread on bamboo floors, so check that out. Then, as with all floors, make SURE you felt all your furniture with heavy duty felt(in Oregon it's tan, but everywhere it will be very thick) and no, plastic feet will not do- knock off all old feet and replace with heavy duty felt. A pre-finished product that I really like is hand scraped wood. Couple reasons for this is- personal preference as i like more "rustic" looking design- and also because scratches and dings and bangs don't show as easily. I've actually installed a floor that had such a dark finish and was hand scraped that we accidentally cross-grained scratched it after it was all laid with an appliance and we took a sharpie(yes the marker) and colored the scratch with it and the scratch literally disappeared even to us knowing where to look for the scratch. So a dark stained hand scraped wood is excellent for scratches. And lastly, if you "think" you can install it- get a professional, it's harder than it looks and pros have the right tricks and tools that make the final product perfect(not to mention if something goes wrong you have someone else's dollar that will have to fix it). The only reason you should do it yourself is if you "know" you can do it. Hope all that helps. Good luck with your remodels or new homes!